It has been a long time, but I just can't trust my baby Glock. I know it is just in my mind, but when I first purchased it (first 200 rounds or so) I had several hang fires, misfires, locked open slides after firing (with rounds still in mag), etc.
It has not happened for a long time, but I can never get it out of the back of my mind.
Honestly I wouldn't trust it either. If it was any other gun I would say that it takes 200 rounds to break it. Being it's a Glock several failures would lead me to think there was something mechanically wrong with it.
I have a full size glock I love, and never doubt. I don't know what to do with baby Glock, and as Guantes poinrts out, I have considered. I have placed 275 through it. The last 75 have been flawless. I should have just sent it to Glock before the year was up. Maybe I'll look into that.
I can relate. I had the same problem with my Walther PPJ (J for Jam), I mean PPK. I went through about 500 rounds, and it still jammed. I retired it and purchased a Colt New Agent 45 and it has been flawless, with the exception of that little recall issue.
If you don't trust your firearm, find one you that you do.
I carry my Glock 35 everyday, and trust it with my family's life.
Take your Glock out some more, and send more lead downrange. I wouldn't trust any gun that has only seen 275 rounds. Add a zero to the end of that figure, and then let us know how it runs. :smile:
I would give it a little more time if it were my choice. While glocks generally don't need a break in period, I wouldn't be too upset or worried about little hang ups in the first 200 rounds. I personally won't carry a gun that i have not put about 1K rounds thur. I also make sure it can feed 200 rounds of a given carry ammo before I will rely on the gun/ammo combo. Might be a little overboard to some, but that's how I do it. I say give it another 800 rounds or so and see if you still have problems, my guess is you wont. Hopefully then you can put your mind at ease. At the same time I can see how you can be bothered and have doubt in the back of your mind, but give it a little more time to prove itself.
The only time this has happened with my G19, I replaced a part wrong after doing the .25 trigger job. I put the spring for the slide lock in wrong. It has to go under the locking block, mine snuck in beside it. The slide would lock back and you could not sling shot it. The slide release would still work though. Replaced the spring and no more problems. Just a thought. Had you taken it apart before the issues?
I have a G34, G19 and a G26. The only times I have had problems like you describe are when I tried a close fire drill, ie draw and fire with gun held at waist. This has happened twice. My conclusion is it was a limp wrist issue. Difficult to maintain a good grip when held at that position. FYI
I've seen this "limp wrist" issue mentioned a few times on here... what is it? I can't see how a poor grip could cause a gun to jam/misfeed/stovepipe... whatever. It seems that once the primer is struck, it's all in the gun's hands (so to speak).
Not quite. The slide can only cycle fully if your hand is keeping the rest of the gun from moving back as well. That is what allows the slide to slide all the way. If you limp wrist it, and don't provide proper rearward support for the firearm, it won't have the proper reactive force on it and possibly won't cycle properly. The same applies for other semi auto and auto firearms, including long guns. (except in that case, it could be you not putting it correctly on your shoulder, for example).
But if there is no current malfunction, you're right, limp wristing won't cause a misfire. It may hang up the next round, though.
Glock or not, I wouldn't trust it either. Something is probably wrong. Glock's aren't invincible like everybody seems to think they are. Very tough and reliable, more so than almost any weapon out there, but still not invincible. It may have been a dud from the factory. Send it back or trade it for another.
I've seen it many times. Poor hold on the gun can cause problems, especially with ejection. Get a solid hold on it, lock your wrist, and you won't have issues. If it continues, then you may indeed have a mechanical problem.
Thanks guys. It's nice to know what you're talkiing about, lol.
I guess I never thought about a gun being held so lightly. So in other words, if a semi-auto were to be dropped and IF it were to go off, chances are it won't rack another round in the chamber. Interesting. I never thought about the slide needing a stable platform to operate correctly. Good info.
The only time I've had my Glock malfunction was due to my grip. I wasn't limpwristing it, but I had my left thumb under my right (shooting hand) thumb. The recoil made my thumb hit the magazine release and cause the malfunction. It happened to me a few times till I figured out not to hold it that way. Since then it has been 100% perfect.
That being said, I only ever practice at the range and two handed. I think that with any semi-auto used for carry it is important to occasionally practice one handed (who knows if you'll have both hands available). Also in a real defense situation, with the adrenaline flowing, who knows what your grip will be like. Three things I'd suggest with any Semi-Auto meant for carry.
1. Practice one handed sometimes
2. Buy some snap-caps and put them into the magazine at random spots between live ammo. You'll get to practice tap-rack-bang drill, and you'll also see if you are anticipating recoil. I think both will make you a better shooter.
3. If you have any issues or worries or can't always practice 1 and 2, really consider a revolver for carry. Sure you don't get as many shots, 5 shots is better than 1 shot and a jam with 15 more shots you can't get off.
It is obvious something is affecting the performance of you Glock.
I get to see hundreds of Glock firearms operate flawlessly on numerous weekends throughout the year so, I don't see why yours should be any different.
While you haven't given much information in your intial post here are a few things that could be causing your FTF:
- Under powered ammunition
- Dirty or, deformed magazines (probably not an issue if NIB gun)
- Weak magazine spring (probably not an issue if NIB gun)
- Limp-wristing
- Weak recoil spring
FT Extract:
-Broken or damaged ejector
- Damaged, overpowered or underpowered ammunition
- Dirt under the extractor claw
- Dirty chamber
FT Eject:
-Dirty chamber
- Damaged, overpowered or underpowered ammunition
- Lack of lubrication
- Dirty gun
Also because the gun is smaller you might want to check your grip. While you might shoot the larger frame Glock flawlessly, you could be making contact with the slide during the recoil phase.
I carry both a 23 and a 27 and bet my life on them both. If you purchased your firearm through an individual, there is no telling what might have been done to it prior to you getting it. In any case get it to a certified Glock Armorer for inspection. There maybe upgrades available too. Look and see if GSSF is coming to town. Armorers there will replace any parts and do the work for free.
Best wishes to ya, you have a good gun there!
When I got my Glock 33 I already had hand loaded 100 rounds for it during the two months I was waiting for my Tax Money. I filled my five mags, put the remainder of my ammo in the range bag (Including my Federal HST LE carry ammo) and headed out. Hammered the first two mags through that little "booger" as fast as I could pull the trigger and keep the hits center mass at 10yds. Then shot the remainder two handed weaver stance, single right hand single left hand again just shooting as smoothly as I could accurately hit center mass. I did this as both as an initial break in and to get a "feel" for how It shoots and I shoot it. I had ZERO misfeeds with the hand loads and the Federal HST's, slide locked back on empty mags as designed. I'd say all in all reliable so far, of course one of the advantages of the Sig .357 is the bottle neck shape, it makes for very reliable feeding.
More reports to follow as I shoot more, I did replace the factory barrel with a Lone Wolf SS "standard rifling" barrel so I could shoot cast bullets (to save the $$) recently and need to shoot it in so more trips to the range. That new barrel is impressive, the feed ramp is polished mirror smooth!
I'm now saving up for a S&W carry piece, the snubby .50 cal hand cannon! Seriously, I'm looking at the new Ruger LCR and understand they are going to have a .357 Magnum version? Gotta have a "baby" .357 snubby and a .357 Glock both composite material.
It has been a long time, but I just can't trust my baby Glock. I know it is just in my mind, but when I first purchased it (first 200 rounds or so) I had several hang fires, misfires, locked open slides after firing (with rounds still in mag), etc.
It has not happened for a long time, but I can never get it out of the back of my mind.
HANG FIRES are when there is a DELAY between the Firing pin hitting the primer and the cartridge firing.
THIS IS EXTREMELY RARE and is caused ONLY BY BAD AMMO.
MISFIRES are when the cartridge FAILS TO FIRE and are caused by BAD AMMO
and/or DIRT OR DEBRIS stopping the firing pin from hitting the primer hard enough.
Slide locked open with rounds in mag..........
This can be caused by Limp Wristing the gun - bad ammo causing jam - or
part of your body INTERFERING with the SLIDE RELEASE.
Baby Glocks have a small grip and some people have hands that are big
enough to cause these problems.
If you can go out NOW and fire a box of cheap ammo from your Glock
without any problems , then you are worrying needlessly.
Ammo should not be the problem. I'm not 100% sure on grip, but don't think it is limp wristing, but have had this in the back of my mind.
I have noticed one difference in my G33 then my flawless G31 (other then the obvious). It is a bit hard to follow.
Most of the time I store my Glocks securely as my go to home SD firearms. One upstairs, one downstairs. Because I don't have them on me, so I don't keep them chambered. Full mag, with the trigger back (like after a dry fire).
Possible problem: In this condition, when I shake my G31, I don't hear and noise. When I shake my G33, there is a metallic, and a little like a rattling spring, sound. The G33 does not make this noise if the trigger is forward.
Ammo should not be the problem. I'm not 100% sure on grip, but don't think it is limp wristing, but have had this in the back of my mind.
I have noticed one difference in my G33 then my flawless G31 (other then the obvious). It is a bit hard to follow.
Most of the time I store my Glocks securely as my go to home SD firearms. One upstairs, one downstairs. Because I don't have them on me, so I don't keep them chambered. Full mag, with the trigger back (like after a dry fire).
When you mention "Shake" you don't specify how, but anyway. There is a way of testing the firing pin travel and that is done by holding the muzzle slightly vertical and shake the gun up and down vertically as well. This hads to be done after dry firing so that the firing pin safety has been released by the vertical extention on the triggerbar. When everything is working correctly, you should hear (and fell most likely) the firing pin sliding back and forth in it's channel.
Possible problem: In this condition, when I shake my G31, I don't hear and noise. When I shake my G33, there is a metallic, and a little like a rattling spring, sound. The G33 does not make this noise if the trigger is forward.
Try it, grab the firearm in your right hand. Lay the gun in the palm of you hand with the slide toward your fingers and the mag well pointing toward your shoulder. With a tight enough grip that the slide doesn't rattle, hold the gun up to your ear and shake it back and forth by your ear.
You could also remove the slide from the frame and do this by holding the firing pin safety inward with a finger or thumb.
This the only "Rattle" we look for in the Glock that means anything.
If you don't hear the firing pin rattle then it is time for an inspection and cleaning of the slide components.
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