Keep lube off firing pin??? - Page 2

Keep lube off firing pin???

This is a discussion on Keep lube off firing pin??? within the Concealed Carry Issues & Discussions forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I'm guessing this is what Angel is referring to: On September 30, 1999, following and armed robbery, one of the Matteson P.D. Officers was involved ...

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  1. #16
    Member Array packin45's Avatar
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    I'm guessing this is what Angel is referring to:

    On September 30, 1999, following and armed robbery, one of the Matteson P.D. Officers was involved in a pursuit of the suspect which culminated in a face to face stand off between the Officer and the Offender. Both had their weapons leveled at one another. The Officer was armed with a Glock 21, .45 caliber Semi-Auto. Upon pulling the trigger, the officer experienced a failure-to-fire.

    Subsequent investigation by a Certified Glock Armorer revealed that the weapon's firing pin channel was fouled with an excessive amount of solvent, lubricant, and dislodged debris. This blockage obstructed the firing pin's movement resulting in a light primer hit. The weapon's slide had been cleaned in a manner that ran contrary to the method suggested by Glock.

    Glock states in their literature that the slide should be cleaned in a muzzle down position. This prohibits liquid and debris from entering the firing pin channel via openings in both the bolt face and the bottom of the slide.

    To determine if the firing pin is unobstructed merely shake the slide from side to side while the firing pin safety is depressed. If the firing pin can be heard moving within the channel then the weapon does not have excessive fouling.

    Dave Krogull
    Westmont P.D. IL.
    The Gun Zone -- Glock Maintenance
    G17, G26

    Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil...


  2. #17
    Member Array REDTAIL's Avatar
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    what about spraying it with non carbon brake cleaner , that stuff dries instantly, lets here from anyone that uses brake cleaner on their guns and firing pins etc

  3. #18
    Distinguished Member Array ripley16's Avatar
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    Fouling and/or contaminating the primer can occur if one use copious amounts of oil that may leak from the firing pin channel. Personally I use one of the several excellent dry lubes available today in the channel and on the pin or striker. Generally speaking very little to almost no lube is needed. I say almost because there should be some protection from rust or water, but not enough to flow off of the parts. A regular cleaning cycle should obviate any build up of enough "sludge" to prevent reliable operation.

  4. #19
    Senior Member Array sheepdog's Avatar
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    Glock states in their literature that the slide should be cleaned in a muzzle down position. This prohibits liquid and debris from entering the firing pin channel via openings in both the bolt face and the bottom of the slide.
    I have lost track of the number of times I have told troops not to do this, but I continue to see the slides being cleaned by brushing the breechface with a brush/solvent, rear of slide on the table, so every bit of "sludge" (thanks RR, that is the best word I've heard for it) runs down into the FP hole. All you can to is tell people a time or two, after that, it's nagging and I dont' nag. My comparison is that if you want to pack your parachute wrong after being told the right way, got ahead.
    What Would Gumby Do?

  5. #20
    Member Array Rilowe's Avatar
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    Gold Flakes

    Perhaps I missed it, but I didn't see a reply to "What kind of gun?"

    I have some experience with gold flakes building up in the striker chamber of my short Kahr pistols.
    The flakes result from the nose of the firing pin still buried in the primer as the barrel unlocks and drops from recoil.
    (Any short pistol that produces a comma-shaped primer dent is subject to this definition).
    Anyway, the unlocking of the barrel is what forces the firing pin back into its proper retracted position.
    This action can put a thin smear of primer metal on the firing pin nose and then that smear gets sucked into the striker chamber where it usually falls off and collects as a bunch of gold flakes.
    (Note - my Kahr PM9 and MK9 are not designed to have striker return (rebound) springs).
    The Kahr user's manual mentions the comma-shaped primer dent as something unimportant - don't worry about it.
    The manual does not mention that little gold flakes are building up in the striker chamber.
    Full detail strip of the striker assembly and chamber clean-out with Q-Tips and Hoppes #9 works for me.

    My XD-45c (4") leaves comma-shaped primer dents, but the XD has a striker rebound spring and I've never found gold flakes in the striker chamber of that one.

    I've NEVER seen comma-shaped primer dents or gold flakes with a standard-length (Gov't) 1911-A1.

    There are several hundreds (thousands?) of other pistol types that I'm not familiar with and your experiences may contradict what I've said here.

    Just sayin'

    Dick

  6. #21
    Member Array titleist's Avatar
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    Some is bound to get in there right? you gotta brush the extractor, and crud gets in there. Be safe and stick with a synthetic lube (slip, weaponshield, etc.)

  7. #22
    Member Array Rilowe's Avatar
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    I don't speak for anyone else here but . . . .

    I'd be really puckered if the gun that was supposed to go BANG!! to save my bacon just sorta went "click"

    Reliability of my carry gun is awful important (to me).
    Any issues that could affect that - I'm going to pay attention to.

    Dick

  8. #23
    Member Array titleist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dick Webster View Post
    I don't speak for anyone else here but . . . .

    I'd be really puckered if the gun that was supposed to go BANG!! to save my bacon just sorta went "click"

    Reliability of my carry gun is awful important (to me).
    Any issues that could affect that - I'm going to pay attention to.

    Dick
    +1.

  9. #24
    Member Array Homer1's Avatar
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    Most people carry with the barrel down with the firing pin is over above the primer
    so unless you are using sealed primers oil could move down the pin and cause it to go click when you need it to go BANG

  10. #25
    Distinguished Member Array Tally XD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coffeecup View Post
    MIne get a cleaning and a small shot of powdered graphite when the mood strikes me.
    Powdered graphite is one thing I will never put anywhere near my guns. It compacts together like any powder and eventually cakes up in a corner or pocket.

    If you dont believe me just look at any door lock cylinder mechanism that has been "lubed" with graphite powder.
    I am consistently on record and will continue to be on record as opposing concealed carry.
    - Barack Obama Chicago Tribune, April 27, 2004

  11. #26
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    Just my O-penguin that since most firing pins are "in the white" metal I usually clean and lube the firing pin with a Break-Free type CLP lube and I clean and lube the FP hole in the slide and then I run a few dry Q-Tips into the FP hole to pull out all but the barest trace surface coating of lube.

    I also clean and lube the FP Spring and then wipe it dry.
    You need to make absolutely sure that there is no excess oil that can migrate to where you don't want it.

    I also lube the inside metal surfaces of my pistol and rifle magazines and my magazine springs and then wipe nearly all of the oil back out and off again leaving only the barest trace film of lubricant.

    The reason that I lube my springs is that if rust and/or starts anywhere on a spring that is where that spring will ultimately fail and break.

    I have never had a problem doing that and I believe that ALL bare gun-metal benefits by having a thin protective film of oil.
    Just my personal opinion on that.

    I lube and then carefully wipe them back out using a bent coat hanger that I attach various size squares of clean cotton sheets or old T-Shirt cloth.

    Lately I have been using WeaponShield as my protective CLP (cleans lubricates protects) and it actually sheds grime and dirt. I use very little as a final wipe.

    I only use modern CLP type lubricants and I have tossed away all of the more traditional "ordinary" gun oils years ago.

    One reason is that the CLP lubes do not deteriorate leather like the older petroleum oils.
    The older oils also eventually rot wood and also harm ivory and stain clothing and the CLPs do not.
    Also when used as an ultra-light film coating they actually repel crap rather than hold it.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  12. #27
    Member Array Skye's Avatar
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    Firing Pin Tunnel

    I agree with the above posters on just a tiny film of oil on firing pin (I shoot a 1911).

    About every 4th time I clean it, I take the firing pin out and look it over.

    I've found that indeed, crud builds up in the firing pin hole over time and my answer to that is an old-fashioned pipe cleaner.

    PS - The reason I know that is because I'm a pipe smoker.

    ...Skye...

  13. #28
    Member Array Ohio Rusty's Avatar
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    I keep a light coat of oil on everything inside, firing pin included. Never had a problem. I read the one poster said about cold weather gumming up your firing pin. I suggest you test your gun oil to see how well it does. Take the oil or grease you use on your gun, put it in the freezer for a couple of days, then take it out and immediately try to squeeze some out if the bottle or tube before it warms any. (This would simulate having to leave your gun in the car in mid winter in a no carry zone). If your lube doesn't come out or run, time to change lubes !!
    I use SLIP 2000 and its lubricity stays in hot or cold. Great stuff.
    Ohio Rusty ><>

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