IF you're a Glock type, here's some news...

This is a discussion on IF you're a Glock type, here's some news... within the Concealed Carry Issues & Discussions forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Originally Posted by Rob72 Definitely TAKE YOUR TIME! If you don't get the "sweet spot", literally a fraction of a millimeter more than needed for ...

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Thread: IF you're a Glock type, here's some news...

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob72
    Definitely TAKE YOUR TIME! If you don't get the "sweet spot", literally a fraction of a millimeter more than needed for reset, you won't notice any difference.

    Bud is right, it's very much a love-hate thing, though my belief (just from my overall take on the negative posters'/gunshop guys) is that they weren't patient enough to do that "two drags on the stone, drop it back in, check, repeat, ad nauseum". Not much on a Glock requires ever-loving care- this is one.
    The thing that's a little bothersome here is if it's that critical, how reliable and durable is it gonna be with use?

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  3. #17
    Membership Revoked Array HappyGunner's Avatar
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    Thats my take on this subject also. Seems it will soon be a junker.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyGunner
    Thats my take on this subject also. Seems it will soon be a junker.
    I don't think it would become a junker. The only thing the precision trimming does is minimize over-travel. Maybe I don't understand it yet, but it seems to me the worst that could happen is the trigger over-travel would increase back to stock.

  5. #19
    Membership Revoked Array HappyGunner's Avatar
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    Well keep us informed how it works.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyGunner
    Well keep us informed how it works.
    Will do! It came in yesterday, so I'll install it this weekend and post what I find.

  7. #21
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tangle
    The thing that's a little bothersome here is if it's that critical, how reliable and durable is it gonna be with use?
    Basically like a well-tuned 1911 hammer/sear combo, but more so. All you're doing is creating a back-stop, out of relatively thick stock- no durability issue. My dad used to put together ore-cars, for mines in CO. The axles and ID's on those big steel wheels have to be turned down to specs within hundreths of an inch, to stay in place (press-fitted). Usually the body of the car is destroyed, before the wheels need to be re-fitted. Same thing. Let us know what you think!

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob72
    Basically like a well-tuned 1911 hammer/sear combo, but more so. All you're doing is creating a back-stop, out of relatively thick stock- no durability issue. My dad used to put together ore-cars, for mines in CO. The axles and ID's on those big steel wheels have to be turned down to specs within hundreths of an inch, to stay in place (press-fitted). Usually the body of the car is destroyed, before the wheels need to be re-fitted. Same thing. Let us know what you think!
    Well, from reading other posts (here and elsewhere) I was getting the impression that the Ghost Rocket connectors are very sensitive to how much you "machine" off.

    But in looking at mine, there is simply a tab on the connector that contacts the trigger bar to stop the trigger from traveling rearward. Of course, initially, the tab is too long and is trimmed to fit a specific gun.

    The impression I was getting was that if you trimmed it 0.001" too much, it wouldn't work or wouldn't work as well. But from the way it works and just looking at it, it shouldn't be anywhere near that critical. Although, I am planning to go slowly and watch what happens.

  9. #23
    Senior Member Array madmike's Avatar
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    Speaking of "critical," I've got a "critical" question for you.

    I know that the different Ghost kits cost, but what might it cost to return the gun to the original factory specs, should you decide you don't like the results? (Including any parts you've need to replace.)

    mm
    Political Correctness has now "evolved" into Political Cowardice.

  10. #24
    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    nothing you keep all stock parts and they are unaltered.. well nothing isnt true say a few mins of your time to do it

  11. #25
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tangle
    The impression I was getting was that if you trimmed it 0.001" too much, it wouldn't work or wouldn't work as well. But from the way it works and just looking at it, it shouldn't be anywhere near that critical. Although, I am planning to go slowly and watch what happens.
    Actually, as long as you keep it within .020", you'll be "in the zone". More than that, and you may be disappointed. I know.....I had to buy two!

    It is subjective, and you've certainly got the right idea. I'm just tossing that out, for others, interested. .020" sounds extremely "tight", but if you pull out a mic, or calipers, you can see that it is actually a good bit of space, when you're cutting with a fine stone, or needle file. The Dremel, the Dremel, now, can get you in trouble!

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmike
    Speaking of "critical," I've got a "critical" question for you.

    I know that the different Ghost kits cost, but what might it cost to return the gun to the original factory specs, should you decide you don't like the results? (Including any parts you've need to replace.)

    mm
    It doesn't cost anything; you just put the stock Glock connector back in.

  13. #27
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    I've got a standard Ghost 3.5# connector and it gives a crisper as well as lighter trigger pull.

    Remember, these parts are connectors and a 3.5# connector does not give a 3.5# trigger pull. My guess is it is around 5#s.

    I like it!!
    The Marshmallowist

  14. #28
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    So far, I haven't been able to "feel" or measure any significant difference in a 3.5# Ghost connector and a 3.5# Glock connector.

    A friend of mine who has worked with a Glock armorer learned from that armorer that there are enough subtle differences in Glock trigger bars to make a significant difference in trigger pull. He said if you had access to a bunch of Glock trigger bars (which most of us don't) you could just about swap them out until you get the best trigger pull.

    Right now I'm wondering how much of the "drag" in a Glock trigger actually comes from the trigger bar against the connector and show much comes from the striker sear against the trigger bar sear.

    I have literally polished every thing in the Glock trigger assembly that can be polished and I really can't see that it makes a whole lot of difference.

    I've got a G-19 that has the best Glock trigger I've ever seen, well for a carry gun, and I can't explain why it remains smoother, crisper, and lighter than my best efforts on my G-17 gen 2. But I do intend to find out what makes the difference.

    BTW, I think if you measure trigger pull weight from the tip of the trigger instead of the middle of the trigger, you'll probably find the pull weight to be about the specified pull weight of the connector. Whether that's the right way to measure trigger pull is quite another question.

  15. #29
    Senior Member Array madmike's Avatar
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    Seems to me that the only trigger-pull measurement that is valid, is when you measure the pull at the point where the trigger-finger does the pulling.

    That makes it a "standard" that people can actually relate to.

    Otherwise, isn't more of a marketing tool?

    mm
    Political Correctness has now "evolved" into Political Cowardice.

  16. #30
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    Maybe. But, I think that's where the 3.5# and 5# numbers come from.

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