This is almost like dangling candy in front of the baby. A friend of mine e-mailed me and said,
"Trigger pull smoothness on the Glock:...However, if you can get your hands on a few trigger bar assemblies and try them out in your Glock you would be amazed. Even though they look alike each one is very slightly different in overall length or dimension. A former Glock employee taught me this trick...he had lots of parts so we would just keep switching them out until we got the trigger pull we wanted. And a dab of some really good grease on the end of the trig ger bar took care of the rest. (He also taught me how to do a real deal trigger job on the Glock...even though the factory says you shouldn't polish anything, and even, how to get a super crisp, no over-travel, 2 pound trigger. That was a little scary so I took it out.)"
I wouldn't be interested in a 2# pull, but the "super crisp, no over-travel" gets my attention.
Things like that just make me wonder why we haven't heard about this before now - with all the Glocks out there and all.
I've wondered why my G-19 has such a wonderful trigger and no matter what I do, my two G-17s just won't come up to the G-19 trigger action. Maybe I know why now????
Edited to add this thought:
Maybe that also explains why we see varying results with "trigger jobs".
I've done a little looking around on the Forum, trying to find out a little more about the Ghost trigger parts set. What I've read about them on the web site that sells them sure sounds good, but I'd expect that.
The theory they post about why it would be a good idea makes sense to me, but I wish I had a better idea about how that works out in the "real world.'
I've had and installed 2, in a 19 and 27. IIRC, they are stainless, not plated steel, and so are smoother on the contact surfaces initially, and readily take a HIGH polish. The little tab that regulates the overtravel is critical- the orange armorers' back plate really is necessary! Essentially, you will file/grind the little tab down until it just barely allows the trigger transfer bar to drop, then you shave off a hair more, for positive clearance, in the real world. If you've already learned to take advantage of the fact that Glock triggers don't have to travle far to reset, this will really increase the speed of your doubles.ara:
I've done a little looking around on the Forum, trying to find out a little more about the Ghost trigger parts set. What I've read about them on the web site that sells them sure sounds good, but I'd expect that.
The theory they post about why it would be a good idea makes sense to me, but I wish I had a better idea about how that works out in the "real world.'
mm,
I ordered the Ghost Rocket Kit (5# connector); it should be in today. When I get it installed I'll post my impressions. Although they'll probably be way to long as usual (my impressions that is).
At this point, I'm not sure it's gonna make a big difference in the feel part, but I am interested in the overtravel adjustment too.
I'll stick to 1911's thank you. My triggers are done by me, takes a couple of hrs. and cost zero. Plus I love doing it. ------- Sorry if I made you sell the G-Lock.
I've had and installed 2, in a 19 and 27. IIRC, they are stainless, not plated steel, and so are smoother on the contact surfaces initially, and readily take a HIGH polish. The little tab that regulates the overtravel is critical- the orange armorers' back plate really is necessary! Essentially, you will file/grind the little tab down until it just barely allows the trigger transfer bar to drop, then you shave off a hair more, for positive clearance, in the real world. If you've already learned to take advantage of the fact that Glock triggers don't have to travle far to reset, this will really increase the speed of your doubles.ara:
I'll stick to 1911's thank you. My triggers are done by me, takes a couple of hrs. and cost zero. Plus I love doing it. ------- Sorry if I made you sell the G-Lock.
Dave Sevigny does pretty good in competition with Glocks. Ernst Langdon did some trigger work on his Sig 220ST and beat Rob Leatham with his highly customized 1911.
But it's not always about making a target gun. It's sometimes just about maximizing and personalizing equipment. That's me. I just like to see what can be done and what it takes.
I'll just sit back and wait for the test! This is not something I'll rush into. If it looks like its really worth it, I'll do it. If it does anything to reduce the reliability, then no way.
Definitely TAKE YOUR TIME! If you don't get the "sweet spot", literally a fraction of a millimeter more than needed for reset, you won't notice any difference.
Bud is right, it's very much a love-hate thing, though my belief (just from my overall take on the negative posters'/gunshop guys) is that they weren't patient enough to do that "two drags on the stone, drop it back in, check, repeat, ad nauseum". Not much on a Glock requires ever-loving care- this is one.
Definitely TAKE YOUR TIME! If you don't get the "sweet spot", literally a fraction of a millimeter more than needed for reset, you won't notice any difference.
Bud is right, it's very much a love-hate thing, though my belief (just from my overall take on the negative posters'/gunshop guys) is that they weren't patient enough to do that "two drags on the stone, drop it back in, check, repeat, ad nauseum". Not much on a Glock requires ever-loving care- this is one.
I don't think it would become a junker. The only thing the precision trimming does is minimize over-travel. Maybe I don't understand it yet, but it seems to me the worst that could happen is the trigger over-travel would increase back to stock.
Basically like a well-tuned 1911 hammer/sear combo, but more so. All you're doing is creating a back-stop, out of relatively thick stock- no durability issue. My dad used to put together ore-cars, for mines in CO. The axles and ID's on those big steel wheels have to be turned down to specs within hundreths of an inch, to stay in place (press-fitted). Usually the body of the car is destroyed, before the wheels need to be re-fitted. Same thing. Let us know what you think!:wave:
Basically like a well-tuned 1911 hammer/sear combo, but more so. All you're doing is creating a back-stop, out of relatively thick stock- no durability issue. My dad used to put together ore-cars, for mines in CO. The axles and ID's on those big steel wheels have to be turned down to specs within hundreths of an inch, to stay in place (press-fitted). Usually the body of the car is destroyed, before the wheels need to be re-fitted. Same thing. Let us know what you think!:wave:
Well, from reading other posts (here and elsewhere) I was getting the impression that the Ghost Rocket connectors are very sensitive to how much you "machine" off.
But in looking at mine, there is simply a tab on the connector that contacts the trigger bar to stop the trigger from traveling rearward. Of course, initially, the tab is too long and is trimmed to fit a specific gun.
The impression I was getting was that if you trimmed it 0.001" too much, it wouldn't work or wouldn't work as well. But from the way it works and just looking at it, it shouldn't be anywhere near that critical. Although, I am planning to go slowly and watch what happens.
Speaking of "critical," I've got a "critical" question for you.
I know that the different Ghost kits cost, but what might it cost to return the gun to the original factory specs, should you decide you don't like the results? (Including any parts you've need to replace.)
The impression I was getting was that if you trimmed it 0.001" too much, it wouldn't work or wouldn't work as well. But from the way it works and just looking at it, it shouldn't be anywhere near that critical. Although, I am planning to go slowly and watch what happens.
Actually, as long as you keep it within .020", you'll be "in the zone". More than that, and you may be disappointed. I know.....I had to buy two!:wink:
It is subjective, and you've certainly got the right idea. I'm just tossing that out, for others, interested. .020" sounds extremely "tight", but if you pull out a mic, or calipers, you can see that it is actually a good bit of space, when you're cutting with a fine stone, or needle file. The Dremel, the Dremel, now, can get you in trouble!:duh:
Speaking of "critical," I've got a "critical" question for you.
I know that the different Ghost kits cost, but what might it cost to return the gun to the original factory specs, should you decide you don't like the results? (Including any parts you've need to replace.)
It doesn't cost anything; you just put the stock Glock connector back in.
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