What type of ammo does the new LCR .357 like?

What type of ammo does the new LCR .357 like?

This is a discussion on What type of ammo does the new LCR .357 like? within the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I just picked up a new LCR .357. Can anyone recommend what rounds will work best in this gun?...

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Thread: What type of ammo does the new LCR .357 like?

  1. #1
    New Member Array smokeeater's Avatar
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    What type of ammo does the new LCR .357 like?

    I just picked up a new LCR .357. Can anyone recommend what rounds will work best in this gun?


  2. #2
    Senior Member Array IAm_Not_Lost's Avatar
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    Are you speaking about literal functionality and reliability, or ballistically? Function-wise all rounds are pretty much 100% reliable in a revolver, and as to which ammo is the best ballistic choice, just pick something you can control, like .38 special + P.
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  3. #3
    VIP Member Array Doghandler's Avatar
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    I don't think the LCR cares much about ammo but prepare to give a firm relaxed shake.

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    Senior Member Array jem102's Avatar
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    An LCR won't sort out MOA at 7 yards. Any premium brand .357 mag HP in the 125-158 gr. range should be fine. I am partial to Federal in wheel guns and prefer nickle plated cases. After 50 rounds break in, clean the pistol well, be sure the chambers and bore are clean and dry (no oil or solvent left there) and fire, at the least, 3 cylinders full in fairly fast cadence of what ever SD ammo you go with. Spent cases must drop free with just a sharp tap on the rod and fresh rounds should drop home of their own weight from the speed loader and/or no problem pushing them home from a strip if that is what you use.

    The manufactures all load to SAAMI specs but use different powder blends with different pressure peaks along the ignition time line, you may have some rough spots in your chambers or tighter/ looser than normal cylinder face gap.
    In more words a brand the falls in/drops out of my 4" Trooper may make for difficult extraction in your LCR and vice versa.
    smokeeater likes this.
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  5. #5
    Distinguished Member Array GunGeezer's Avatar
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    My LCR .357 mag. takes any brand of .357 ammo and any .38 or .38+P I put in it. Ballistically, it all depends on what you are shooting at.

  6. #6
    VIP Member Array tkruf's Avatar
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    I agree with GunGeezer about the .357 LCR diet. However, be sure you can handle it. It does have a stout recoil with .357 loads in it. With .38's it is a joy to shoot. I also have the .38 version LCR and absolutely love it. Best shooting .38 snub I've ever shot. I have the new .22LR LCR on layaway right now. Going to be picking it up in the next week or two.
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  7. #7
    Member Array Sledge's Avatar
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    I've shot various 38's, DPX 38+P, Gold Dot short barrell 357's. I've gotten the tightest groups with the Gold Dots.

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    Be careful with full power loads and heavy bullets.

    Heavy weight bullets in high pressure loads WILL likely cause problems of crimp jump.
    Personal experience with armscor 158gr JHP. This is hot stuff with a heavy bullet.
    Two shots and cylinder locked up because bullet "prairie dogged" out the chamber mouth.
    This happened twice, first time it was on the left side and I was able to open the cylinder,
    second time it was on the right side and the gun jammed up and I could not open the cylinder.
    Here is what the manual states:

    1. At a range or other suitable location, fully load your revolver with the
    ammunition you wish to test in accordance with the safety and loading
    instructions in this manual.
    2. Fire four of the five rounds in accordance with the safety and firing
    instructions in this manual.
    3. Unload the four fired cases and the unfired round in accordance with the
    safety and unloading instructions in this manual. Closely inspect the
    unfired round for signs that the bullet has moved forward out of the case.
    For jacketed and lead bullets with a cannelure or crimp groove, check to
    see if the bullet has moved forward enough so that the case mouth is no
    longer located in the bullet cannelure or crimp groove. For lead bullets
    without a cannelure or crimp groove, there should be no detectable
    movement of the bullet. If the bullet has moved as just described, do not
    use that brand of tested ammunition, and repeat this test with another
    brand until one is found that the bullet does not unseat during this test.
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  9. #9
    Member Array awoodpd13's Avatar
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    On the infrequent occasions that I carry my LCR, it's loaded with Winchester 145gr. STHPs!
    LEOSA Qualified: Semi-auto and revolver.

  10. #10
    VIP Member Array wmhawth's Avatar
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    What type of ammo does the new LCR .357 like?
    The LCR .357 likes it all but what I like for it is 38 Special 158 grain LSWCHP for carry.

  11. #11
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    "There is a secret pride in every human heart that revolts at tyranny. You may order and drive an individual, but you cannot make him respect you." William Hazlitt (1778 - 1830)

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  12. #12
    Member Array Ishmael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jem102 View Post
    An LCR won't sort out MOA at 7 yards. Any premium brand .357 mag HP in the 125-158 gr. range should be fine. I am partial to Federal in wheel guns and prefer nickle plated cases. After 50 rounds break in, clean the pistol well, be sure the chambers and bore are clean and dry (no oil or solvent left there) and fire, at the least, 3 cylinders full in fairly fast cadence of what ever SD ammo you go with. Spent cases must drop free with just a sharp tap on the rod and fresh rounds should drop home of their own weight from the speed loader and/or no problem pushing them home from a strip if that is what you use.

    The manufactures all load to SAAMI specs but use different powder blends with different pressure peaks along the ignition time line, you may have some rough spots in your chambers or tighter/ looser than normal cylinder face gap.
    In more words a brand the falls in/drops out of my 4" Trooper may make for difficult extraction in your LCR and vice versa.
    Tell me more. I haven't shot mine a ton, but I find I often have to give spent casings a tug. So, this is something I can sort out with different types of ammo? What characteristics do I look for/keep track of/correlate to the problem?

  13. #13
    Ex Member Array azchevy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rongaudier View Post
    Heavy weight bullets in high pressure loads WILL likely cause problems of crimp jump.
    Personal experience with armscor 158gr JHP. This is hot stuff with a heavy bullet.
    I am close to 2K on mine now with about 80% of that .357 or 38+p hot loads and have not experienced a single issue.
    zacii likes this.

  14. #14
    VIP Member Array Superhouse 15's Avatar
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    In a gun that light I believe I'd use a jacketed .38+P load of some kind. If I used .357 it would likely be a medium power load like the Gold Saber. Checking for bullets that jump the crimp is good advice no matter what load you choose.
    Try not to screw up so bad they name the screw up after you. (Station 15 saying)

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  15. #15
    Member Array bluemarlin's Avatar
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    I find Hornady CD, Remington Golden Sabre, anything with a Barnes Expander (all copper) bullet, all in .357 mag to have a manageable recoil. Full House rounds feel like someone just hit my hand with a sledgehammer.

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