Is steel-cased ammo bad for your firearm?

This is a discussion on Is steel-cased ammo bad for your firearm? within the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Originally Posted by MotorCityGun Bought one box of Tula .40 S&W from WW and tried it in my M&P. I will NEVER do that again. ...

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Thread: Is steel-cased ammo bad for your firearm?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorCityGun View Post
    Bought one box of Tula .40 S&W from WW and tried it in my M&P. I will NEVER do that again. In fact, I've got 30 more rounds if anyone would be willing to pay for the shipping cost, it's yours...I'm serious. PM me if you're interested.
    Ditto on that. bought a few boxes of this and that to break in my M&P 40c including a box of tula. Loaded two mags of tula, first mag every other one failed to feed, they shot fine but just got stuck on the feed ramp. Second mag all of em fed and shot fine but I was done with that trash for then. Everything else (brass) has went flawless since. I'll prob finish the box off sometime but not really one to shoot steel anyways.
    The stupidity of some people NEVER ceases to amaze me.

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  3. #32
    Member Array John123's Avatar
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    Debunked!!!!

    Check out the Box o Truth educational zone #18.... Conclusion is use brass or steel, just don't mix during a range session.

    They also baked the lacquered casings for a ridiculous time at temperatures well beyond what your going to get unless your going cyclic..... The lacquer doesn't melt off guys. Like I said, google box o truth.

    That said I've shot thousands of steel cased ammo through my ar15s, lacquered and not. I can hit a foot squared steel plate at 200 yards extremely reliably and rarely have any issues (jam, squib, etc). They happen but not very often, and then I welcome them as a training opportunity.

    I still wouldn't use them for self defense, but they are great range rounds.

    As others have already said most of the horror stories are "from a guy" who heard it from another guy who read it on a forum.

    I love the stuff, mostly because I can't afford paying nearly .50 cents a round for brass ammo that does the exact same thing.

    Until someone does a more definitive test with proof that it damages extractors or that lacquer melts (it doesn't) I'll continue shooting almost twice as much as I would with brass.

    Of course, all of the above is worthless if your gun just can't run it. Some just can't reliably digest it, others can. Luckily both my ARs and my M&P eat it like candy.

    Last note, I placed 5 rounds of tulammo 223 and 9mm into a cup of water, submerged for 5 minutes. All rounds fired without incident and all 5 223 rounds hit my foot squared steel plate at 200 yards. Good enough for me!!

  4. #33
    Member Array John123's Avatar
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    Sucks to hear your m&ps can't digest Tula, mine is worn in (about 4k through it) and does fine. The price difference isn't that big a deal on pistol ammo anyways, it's 223 that you really save money on by going steel.

  5. #34
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    Hmm, Ok just went and checked out box o truth, good info, seems like it would make since. I'm gonna try that next trip to the range. Just gonna shoot the tula stuff and see how it runs. I'll be honest it did bother me a tad that it had problems, I just figured it was another reason most people didnt like steel. But one of the reasons I got the m&p was because I heard so much it would eat anything and ran flawless.
    The stupidity of some people NEVER ceases to amaze me.

    G19 AIWB

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    Yeah love the M&P!!

  7. #36
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    The newer coatings do not bake off they are polymer coated.
    The older natural lacquer coatings most certainly did. We are talking really vintage ammo so while there may still be old lacquered steel around I would say that the vast majority of even fairly recently mfg steel case ammo would be just fine since it's hi-heat polymer coat.

    Plus - All modern Zinc coated steel cased ammo like Silverbear will never be problematic.
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  8. #37
    Distinguished Member Array BlueNinjaGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLittle View Post
    The range where I shoot has a big sign as you enter saying "Shooting of Steel Cased Ammunition is Prohibited at this Facility"...... You can shoot aluminum and brass only..
    One theory behind this is that most ranges recycle spent casings for extra money. Having steel casings mixed in reduces the price they get since it's "mixed". Like I said, it's a theory, so grain of salt and all that jazz.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubborn View Post
    I do not know this for fact...but it's my understanding that steel case ammo is extremely hard on extractors. I stay away from it.
    Maybe someone with more knowledge than me, can shed more light on this.
    My understanding is that the steal in Tula and other steal cased ammo is softer than the extractor of the gun. The only way that steal case ammo could wear out the extractor is that if it is harder than the steal used for the extractor.
    "Where's the kaboom? There was supposed to be an earth-shattering kaboom!" - Marvin the Martian

    Sig Sauer P250 2Sum 9mm, P250c 9mm - Glock 23 - Springfield Armory Loaded .45, XD Service 9mm - Ruger LCP, LCR, Smith & Wesson 638

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  10. #39
    Distinguished Member Array Arborigine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skysoldier29 View Post
    My understanding is that the steal in Tula and other steal cased ammo is softer than the extractor of the gun. The only way that steal case ammo could wear out the extractor is that if it is harder than the steal used for the extractor.
    Don't steal

  11. #40
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    I've sent THOUSANDS of TulAmmo down range..I reiterate THOUSANDS. Through my Kimber's, Para's, Sig's, M&P, Kahr, and Baer. A few FTF's with a dimple on the primer every once in a while, but WHO cares. It's cheap and if that gets you out shooting that's all that matters. If your extractor is softer than the casing you have more trouble to worry about than CHEAP AMMO.

    Sig

  12. #41
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    Steel=much less smooth than brass=more friction=more malfunctions

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    Bought a glock 23 .40 about 1 month ago. Have shot about 500 rounds. 200 of it with Tula Ammo bought at Walmart for $15/50.
    Hey, i have the gen 4 ejector issue going on and have a new ejector coming to my armorer. But the Tula Ammo .40 does not
    boink me between the eyes on on the head. May have something to do with the ejector interacting with the Steel casing. The gun needs to be cleaned a bit more. But who cares, i love to even clean the thing. It appears to be cheap decent ammo. I think that spending $2-5 bucks/50 rounds more is idiotic. Find a range that allows the steel and blaze away - with a quite content feeling that you are saving some money too. For poking holes in paper - it works fine in the Glock 23.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty901 View Post
    The reason for that is they make cash on the brass but steel is worthless. Mix the steel and brass the price goes way down.
    Problem with most steel case ammo is the manufacturer is most often is cheap stuff
    My range has the same policy. I was told it was because of a fear of ricochets.
    Pistols: Glock 21SF, 30SF, 36, Colt 1911 Govt. (all .45 ACP), S&W M&P Shield (9 mm), S&W M&P (.22)
    Revolvers: Ruger SP 101 (.357mag/.38SP), Taurus Judge (.410 Gauge/.45 LC)
    Long guns: Daniel Defense AR15s, M4V4 and M4V5 (both 5.56), Mossberg Shotguns (400 and 500, both 12G), Ruger (.22LR)

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    My Glocks and Sig's eat it just fine, a little
    dirtier than normal.
    "A lie gets halfway around the world before the truth has a chance to get its pants on."
    - Sir Winston Churchill

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNinjaGo View Post
    One theory behind this is that most ranges recycle spent casings for extra money. Having steel casings mixed in reduces the price they get since it's "mixed". Like I said, it's a theory, so grain of salt and all that jazz.
    I've seen my range guys sweeping up the casings. They go in the trash with all the other garbage. I suppose it's possible they have them dig through the garbage to gather the casings, but I seriously doubt it.
    Pistols: Glock 21SF, 30SF, 36, Colt 1911 Govt. (all .45 ACP), S&W M&P Shield (9 mm), S&W M&P (.22)
    Revolvers: Ruger SP 101 (.357mag/.38SP), Taurus Judge (.410 Gauge/.45 LC)
    Long guns: Daniel Defense AR15s, M4V4 and M4V5 (both 5.56), Mossberg Shotguns (400 and 500, both 12G), Ruger (.22LR)

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