.357 reduced recoil.. any advice?

This is a discussion on .357 reduced recoil.. any advice? within the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I am looking for a great HP defense round to use out of a snub S&W 640 (Steel J frame). I have the option to ...

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Thread: .357 reduced recoil.. any advice?

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    Member Array bgusty's Avatar
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    .357 reduced recoil.. any advice?

    I am looking for a great HP defense round to use out of a snub S&W 640 (Steel J frame). I have the option to shoot .357 vs .38+p. As I was doing some research online I came across the federal hydrashok .357 reduced recoil. Packs in about 490 ft/lbs of energy, vs somewhere around 250-290 in a .38+p. Anyone have any experience with these rounds? How reduced is the recoil or is it still a small hand cannon? Am I better off with the .357 or faster follow up with the +p rounds?
    I think guns are like insurance. I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

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    VIP Member Array Taurahe's Avatar
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    IMO.... if recoil is an issue I would just go with the .38's. I tried some .357 reduced recoil loads a few years ago, and they still recoiled more than .38's and the muzzle flash was still very bright. The muzzle flash of .357 snubbies has always been a downfall to me, especially in low light. I would rather put 5 rnds. of 38 COM, than shoot 1 .357 rnd and be flash blinded. For me the .38 +p is the way to go
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    I only ever shoot the .357 Magnum cartridge with full-powered handloads and 158 grain bullets in larger revolvers. Have only fired a J-Frame .357 Magnum on a single occasion for 5-shots and didn't have opportunity to work with it. I'm only guessing that I'd do alright with it out to about 7 yards or so with quick repeat shots. The revolver was a Model 649 and it was manageable with the 125 grain load used which is a loading that most people seem to like. If fast follow-up shots are important to you it might be best to go with a .357 Magnum "-P" loading of some sort of use +P .38 Special. In my view the line is really blurred between the two regarding relative stopping power. An assailant could be said to be having a really bad day if fairly struck with either.
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    I'd recommend the .38's +p or regular .38's for a 640 j-frame. I've switched to standard pressure .38's because I carry those in my airweights (637 and 642), but with a 640 the +p's are also very easy to get back on target with the extra weight. I am nowhere near as accurate in point shooting with .357's out of a j-Frame. I do like the big boom and lick of flame they produce, though.

    By the way, you may notice a stiff trigger on the j-frame. One thing I have done is swap out the 18 lb. rebound spring with a 13 pound rebound spring. See this thread, and read post 15. I went with a Wolf spring kit.

    J-Frame Apex Spring Kits (or comparable kits) - Experiences Good/Bad?

    You hand strength may be much stronger than mine, so it may not be an issue for you. A lighter rebound spring really helps with point shooting accuracy.
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    VIP Member Array 40Bob's Avatar
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    I run full power 125 Winchester 357's in my 640 Pro. They Chrony @1250 fps from the 640. The muzzle flash issue is way over blown. My split times with full power magnums VS 38's are so close it is not worth worrying about. The Corbon 125 grn DPX is a pretty moderate load.
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    VIP Member Array Taurahe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40Bob View Post
    I run full power 125 Winchester 357's in my 640 Pro. They Chrony @1250 fps from the 640. The muzzle flash issue is way over blown. My split times with full power magnums VS 38's are so close it is not worth worrying about. The Corbon 125 grn DPX is a pretty moderate load.
    I will agree the muzzle flash issue is a bit of a dead horse, but for some it is a significant issue. My eyes are hypersensitive to light to the point I have prescription sunglasses. the .357 muzzleflash is physically painful to me.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40Bob View Post
    I run full power 125 Winchester 357's in my 640 Pro. They Chrony @1250 fps from the 640. The muzzle flash issue is way over blown. My split times with full power magnums VS 38's are so close it is not worth worrying about. The Corbon 125 grn DPX is a pretty moderate load.
    Spoken by someone with experience with the half-pint Smith & Wesson .357 Magnum revolvers.
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    My Model 649 (steel frame) shoots .38 +P very well, very comfortable. I've also shot the Remington Golden Sabre .357 mag, 125 grain JHP with success. As a compromise, it is easier to shoot in the J frame than 'full house' magnum loads, but still packs more punch than the .38.
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    Thanks for the suggestions! PEF, I already plan on having my local gunsmith swap out the springs. It is something I could probably do myself, but he will also be putting on a night sight on the front for me, and that is one thing I can't do. Does the short barrel stuff from gold dot actually make a big difference in the energy coming from a J frame anyway, or is that mostly a marketing gimmick?
    I think guns are like insurance. I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

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    VIP Member Array Crowman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEF View Post
    By the way, you may notice a stiff trigger on the j-frame. One thing I have done is swap out the 18 lb. rebound spring with a 13 pound rebound spring. I went with a Wolf spring kit.
    I used the Apex spring kit on my 642 and it lowered the pull from 12 to 9 lbs and worked soother also.....

    Apex has a disassemble and re-assemble video at there site:
    https://apextactical.com/store/produ...php?pid49.html
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    There is some good advice above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^666 So, I will not try to repeat that.........

    I will only add to the fact that the larger the frame, lenght of the shootin end, the less recoil. My better half loves her M-66 wheel gun... even with semi-wad full charge. The gun just eats the recoil, and comes right back on target for single or double action. Granted, she looks like she has a third leg if she tries to conceal it.
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    I have an SP 101 2.4 an use .38 +Ps easy to keep on target great round. My Mod 60 i use .357 but its ported so it cuts muzzle flip in half.

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    VIP Member Array 40Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taurahe View Post
    I will agree the muzzle flash issue is a bit of a dead horse, but for some it is a significant issue. My eyes are hypersensitive to light to the point I have prescription sunglasses. the .357 muzzleflash is physically painful to me.
    I am very light sensitive also. Having fired in hundreds of night qualifications I never felt that the muzzle flash was painfully bright shooting in low light. It did however, light up the target for subsequent shots out to 15 yards. I know some people like to equate the intensity of it to a flash bulb, but that is not my experience.
    My rifle and pistol are tools, I am the weapon. Go big or stay on the porch.

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    This is what I shoot most of the time in my 4" 620. I figure it is more than enough for two legged threats!
    https://www.buffalobore.com/index.ph...t_detail&p=108
    SR9c
    S&W 620
    Kimber Pro Carry II

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    VIP Member Array Taurahe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40Bob View Post
    I am very light sensitive also. Having fired in hundreds of night qualifications I never felt that the muzzle flash was painfully bright shooting in low light. It did however, light up the target for subsequent shots out to 15 yards. I know some people like to equate the intensity of it to a flash bulb, but that is not my experience.
    I actually find that very interesting. My duty backup was a Taurus .357 Snubby, and during night IWQ which was required for a BUG, I seemed as though all of the muzzle flash was in my face. Could different weapons have different characteristics for muzzleflash in such a situation? I am not a snubby expert by any means, and have only commented from personal experience.
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