Accurizing brass for individual bolt gun?

Accurizing brass for individual bolt gun?

This is a discussion on Accurizing brass for individual bolt gun? within the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Let me see if I'm understanding this correctly. For example, .30-06. Buy factory brass, made to tolerances for all .30-06 chambers and headspacing. Potentially, the ...

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    Member Array ChrisATX's Avatar
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    Accurizing brass for individual bolt gun?

    Let me see if I'm understanding this correctly. For example, .30-06. Buy factory brass, made to tolerances for all .30-06 chambers and headspacing. Potentially, the headspace and chamber don't match the factory round. When the rifle is horizontal, the round does not perfectly fill the chamber, meaning the bullet is not perfectly concentric with the bore, decreasing accuracy.

    Fire factory brass and it expands to fill the chamber properly, meaning the opening of the brass is now concentric to the bore. It seems this would make the brass most accurate with respect to the individual rifle.

    Am I understanding this correctly?


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    Member Array ChrisATX's Avatar
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    Also, the bullet of the completed round should touch the lands for the greatest accuracy?

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    VIP Member Array Bad Bob's Avatar
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    You are correct, then you just neck size the brass. I full length size mine because I have a couple '06's I shoot.



    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisATX View Post
    Also, the bullet of the completed round should touch the lands for the greatest accuracy?
    You want to be VERY careful about that, too much lead and you build up pressure fast.
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    VIP Member Array nedrgr21's Avatar
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    If your bolt, receiver and barrel aren't squared up it may not matter - or not worth the trouble. You can also run into the trouble of having ammo only fitting the chamber of only one gun, not fitting the gun you originally shot it in, magazine loading/feeding problems, or increased pressures if temps are drastically different. Barnes Bullets advises against loading with their bullets touching the lands. I wouldn't go on a much anticipated hunt with rounds that are that perfectly matched to the gun - stuff happens.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40Bob View Post
    You are correct, then you just neck size the brass. I full length size mine because I have a couple '06's I shoot.





    You want to be VERY careful about that, too much lead and you build up pressure fast.
    I agree and as stated do not allow the bullet touch the lands. A trick I have used is to partially seat the bullet in an empty neck-sized case then chamber it. That will push the bullet back into the case giving you the maximum OAL that will fit the chamber; I then measure the resulting round then seat the bullet .002 deeper. Just be sure the loaded rounds fit the magazine and feed correctly.
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    Distinguished Member Array dangerranger's Avatar
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    Bullet seating depth is up to your individual rifle, Some shoot best with the bullet a couple thousands back, some rifles seem to shoot the best groups with the bullets jammed into the lands to where extraction of an unfired round becomes difficult. Only testing with your rifle will tell. In extreme accuracy testing even the heat of the day will affect bullet seating depth. A lot of extreme competitors reload right at the range. Good luck DR
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    I only have one 30-06 Rem 700 and fully size every case. I seat the bullets just short of touching the rifling. My rounds wouldn't work in a buddy's Win (too long) but feed fine in mine. My rifle is for hunting so I wanted the feeding reliability that bench shooters don't require. Neck sizing didn't work well for my rifle.

    Each rifle has its own characteristics and the benefit of reloading is to tune rounds for best accuracy in your rifle. Experiment with powders, powder weights, bullet shapes and weights, col, and anything else until you get the result you want. My 700 will shoot my reloads under 1 MOA if I do my part (getting harder with older eyes) but will not with factory loads.
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    VIP Member Array SatCong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisATX View Post
    Also, the bullet of the completed round should touch the lands for the greatest accuracy?
    With out looking at the weapon, I wouldn't have the bullet touch the lands.
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    Member Array ChrisATX's Avatar
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    Thanks you everyone for sharing your knowledge so generously. The more I read and learn, the more this hobby is right up my alley.

    Quote Originally Posted by msgt/ret View Post
    I agree and as stated do not allow the bullet touch the lands. A trick I have used is to partially seat the bullet in an empty neck-sized case then chamber it. That will push the bullet back into the case giving you the maximum OAL that will fit the chamber; I then measure the resulting round then seat the bullet .002 deeper. Just be sure the loaded rounds fit the magazine and feed correctly.
    This is genius and saves the cost of a Hornady OAL gauge and threaded case. I was wondering earlier if this would be possible to do.

    Is a micrometer bullet seater die worth the investment? The feeling I'm getting with my reading is yes.

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    VIP Member Array SatCong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisATX View Post
    Thanks you everyone for sharing your knowledge so generously. The more I read and learn, the more this hobby is right up my alley.


    Is a micrometer bullet seater die worth the investment? The feeling I'm getting with my reading is yes.
    I use a FORSTER DIE and it has micrometer bullet seater die. For my 308 and my 300 Win Mag.
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    VIP Member Array glockman10mm's Avatar
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    Unless one shoots bench rest competition, I don't think fire forming brass will show on paper much, if at all, with most rifles, even varmint guns.

    But it is fun, and a worthy knowledge builder when you get started.

    Fwiw, I would use a primer less case, and color my bullet completely black with a felt tip marker, and seat until the lands and grooves just barely touched them, then use that dummy round as a gauge to adjust dies in the future.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisATX View Post

    This is genius and saves the cost of a Hornady OAL gauge and threaded case. I was wondering earlier if this would be possible to do.

    Is a micrometer bullet seater die worth the investment? The feeling I'm getting with my reading is yes.
    It is much easier to use the Hornday OAL with the modified case, make sure to get the Ogive not overall length
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    most of the time you set the bullet out it will not fit into a mag well or magazine or enblock. For single load use only.
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    VIP Member Array SatCong's Avatar
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    As for me on OAL, I stay with factory. My 300 Win Mag calls for 3.340 OAL and that what I load for. Some people has said for long rang it's no good. Last few years been shooting 1,000 yards and doing MOA or sub MOA at that range. Few weeks back we did a mile or 1,760 yards and I did 1 1/2 MOA, it was about 25'' group. My best at 1,000 yards was 4 1/4'' group. With just a Rem 700 P rifle. Now we just play, three old boys like myself a two younger one's. One of my targets and rifle is here. 1000 yard rifle?
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    VIP Member Array nedrgr21's Avatar
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    Another vote for measuring by the ogive and not the bullet tip. If one tip is smashed a bit, you could drastically increase pressures. Don't forget to remeasure each time you change bullets or cases. FTR, I like my OAL gauge.
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    I seat deeper than touching the lands and grooves due to potential pressure issues. Also make sure it fits the magazine since it is a hunting rifle. I painted the bullet in a dummy case loaded, repainted and loaded till I was not marking the paint from the lands and grooves.
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