.327 - Page 2

.327

This is a discussion on .327 within the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Originally Posted by Blackeagle Maybe it's because everyone else's .327 is still at Ruger for the recall. Yeah that, or the fact that when i ...

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Thread: .327

  1. #16
    Member Array GettingOld2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackeagle View Post
    Maybe it's because everyone else's .327 is still at Ruger for the recall.
    Yeah that, or the fact that when i go to the shop I'm greeted with, "Oh yeah, you're THE guy with the 327." I know there must be at least one other, because I'm sure not buying up all that ammo that keeps disappearing.

    I ran some rounds through this past weekend. A couple cylinders of each of the three .327 rounds, (85gr, 100gr, 115). The cartridge sticking appears to be fixed. They wouldn't drop out, but no noticeable extra ejector force was required. I did have one surprise, and it was with the Speer Gold Dot.

    BLAM, BLAM, BLAM, BLAM, BLAM, bang-flash

    The last round sounded like a cap, (foam & ear muffs), with a flash out the side from the primer. I waited about 10 seconds in case of a slow burn. Fortunately nothing jammed and another cylinder load was fine.

    I assume it was just a defective round, but a Speer Gold Dot?

    One more thing while I'm on the subject. I've found that I've had to crank the rear sight all the way to right to line up my shots. I'm not sure if this is a quirk of me or the revolver. It's impossible for me to be using the wrong eye. I guess I'll just have to get someone else to try it.


  2. #17
    Member Array LouisianaMan's Avatar
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    GettingOld2,
    Sorry you're suffering! I know I get very antsy when a gun or ammo isn't working like I expect it to!
    Not sure about my sights--I know they're not cranked all the way over, though. I consider myself a "functional" pistol shot, i.e. I can keep my shots in a hand-sized pattern in rapid-fire. I find it very hard to fire fine groups at 25 yards in slow fire, especially due to 50-year-old eyes. :-) My SP-101 gives me the groups I'm "looking for," but I'm not the best judge of the accuracy potential of either the gun or the cartridge.
    I've never had a Gold Dot give me a "pop and no kick," which is especially disappointing at $1+ per shot.
    Are you grouping your shots pretty consistently? That might indiate whether it's operator error or gunsight problem. I know I tend to pull slow-fire SA or DA shots slightly left, especially when shooting high-pressure rounds and not REALLY disciplining myself. I'm happier shooting those rapidly & don't tend to pull them leftwards as much! :-)
    You may want to try shooting some .32 S&W Longs to see if it's the gun, or whether you just aren't used to all the bucking & roaring yet. I gave up .357s a while back--can shoot 'em OK, but not really enjoying it. I like lower pressure stuff, and the .327 is pretty hot w/sharp report and some of those rounds have quite a muzzle flash.
    My handloaded .32 S&W Longs shoot 770fps from a snubbie and penetrate 6 water-filled milk jugs with a 115g FP bullet. I get 980fps with that bullet in a .32HR Magnum case in my SP-101--not a load to sneeze at if you like lead bullets. It "felt" about like the 85g .327, and lighter/easier to shoot than the 100g or 115g factory loads.
    Don't know if you reload. . .if not, maybe you could try a few boxes of less expensive .32 Long just to function test your pistol as thoroughly as you like, and reduce the $$$$ outlay. Final thought: about $10 gets you a Wolff spring that makes trigger pull very nice. Is that an issue for you?
    Best of luck.

  3. #18
    Distinguished Member Array 21bubba's Avatar
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    It just seems to me that the .327 is the answer to a question nobody asked.
    Kind of makes me think of 45gap.

  4. #19
    Member Array LouisianaMan's Avatar
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    I think really it's the answer to the question that was asked 20-odd years ago, but was answered with the .32 H&R Magnum. While a nice cartridge, the .32 HRM was loaded relatively light in order to be safe with its H&R revolver platforms.
    In my view, anything you can do with a .327 cartridge can be done with a .38+P or .357. With a .327 revolver, however, you can range from .32 S&W or SWL all the way up to near-.357 power out of the same gun. In my family's case, that means a gun I can carry, or one my petite daughters and wife can use with a different cartridge. Kind of .357 / .38 versatility, plus some. (Not sure how big that market niche is!) Unfortunately, ammo is also more expensive than the .38/.357, not less expensive.
    I am kind of surprised Ruger chose a CCW-platform like the SP-101 as flagship for this caliber. Perhaps it would have been more popular as an adjustable sight trail gun and/or a single-action, especially if Marlin could make a companion lever-action. Also, I suspect the ammo & components shortages we've seen since November have really hampered this cartridge. . .perhaps fatally. Time will tell.

  5. #20
    Senior Member Array Landric's Avatar
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    It is slightly less expensive to handload for than the .38/.357 though, once one has acquired brass anyway. Less powder use and 100 grain lead RNFPs are a couple bucks cheaper per 500 than 158 grain lead RNL or SWC.

    I still haven't gotten to fire any .327 ammo in my gun, but the .32H&R and .32 S&W Long are entertaining to shoot.
    -Landric

    "The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them" -Felix

  6. #21
    VIP Member Array shooterX's Avatar
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    It seems they had some pretty extensive quality control problems in their production line and a whole lot of these guns had to go back.



    Ruger seems to have a lot of these issues of late.

  7. #22
    Member Array DPAZ's Avatar
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    Ruger Fan

    Quote Originally Posted by shooterX View Post


    Ruger seems to have a lot of these issues of late.

    I was thinking the same thing. I own Ruger, and have for a long time, and my old Rugers are about perfect, however the new ones almost assuredly have to go back to Prescott for recalls/repairs/warranty etc. Still nice guns, just wish they would do it right the first time.

    The upside is all the free Ruger stuff they include with the repair.
    Be prepared
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  8. #23
    Member Array GettingOld2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouisianaMan View Post
    GettingOld2,
    ...Are you grouping your shots pretty consistently?
    ... You may want to try shooting some .32 S&W Longs
    ... Final thought: about $10 gets you a Wolff spring that makes trigger pull very nice.
    Yeah, my groupings are consistent.

    I didn't take my half boxes of .32 Long and .32 H&R Mag because I haven't found any more yet and was saving them as a step-up introduction for my wife. Good idea though!

    I wanted to ask about the Wolff springs. I've seen them highly recommended for the .357, but according to the "GunBlast Review" of the .327 version:

    "The trigger pull on the sample gun measured a smooth nine pounds, six ounces in double action mode, and a crisp three and three-quarters pounds in single action mode. "

    I haven't measured it myself, but if those numbers are correct, would the Wolff Springs still be appropriate?

    Thanks!

  9. #24
    Member Array LouisianaMan's Avatar
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    Reference the Wolff springs in the SP-101:

    At first, my .327 DA pull was very heavy, so much so that one of my daughters could not pull the trigger, and the other daughter + my wife had trouble pulling it 6 times rapidly. When I ordered the Wolff spring kit, I installed the 10-pound spring based on some other forums/posts I'd read, and the difference was like night & day. Instantly, a trigger pull that my girls could use, and 100% reliable ignition with various types of ammo & primers. We've probably fired 200 or so rounds through it & every one went BANG. Most of that was my reloads with Federal primers--famously "soft"--but I also fired some Speer and Federal factory loads.

    When I recently got an SP-101 in .357, I found it had a heavy trigger pull, too, although not as stiff as the original .327 by far. I had a 12-lb. and a 9-lb. Wolff spring remaining in the kit I'd purchased, so I put in the 12-lb. spring. It felt pretty heavy, so I replaced it with the 9-lb. spring. Again, instant satisfaction! I've put about 150 rounds through it so far w/o any light primer strikes--everything went BANG. I fired Winchester, Remington, and Hornady factory loads, as well as my Federal-primed reloads.

    It's easy to do. I read the Ruger instructions on removing the spring, and the whole job is about 10 minutes the first time, and 5 minutes if you want to put in another spring and try it. In fact, you can reduce that time by dry-firing it w/o re-installing the grips at first, to see if you like it. Once you like the trigger, re-install the grips.

    Like you, I don't have the equipment to measure the trigger pull on my guns. In fact, I'm generally a "traditionalist" who used to prefer to keep everything "as-is" from the factory. Years ago I tried a Pachmayr grip & was sold on using after-market grips. Just during this past year I've installed Wolff or another brand (I forget the name) springs in a Marlin lever-action rifle and these two Ruger DA revolvers, and boy has it made a difference in all of them! I was considering getting rid of the .327 since my girls couldn't shoot it, and now it's a great gun for us!

    PS--I didn't bother with installing the tiny trigger return spring--it doesn't affect the trigger pull, only the speed at which the trigger resets after each shot. The mainspring was all I needed to change.

    Hope this helps!

  10. #25
    Member Array GettingOld2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouisianaMan View Post
    Reference the Wolff springs in the SP-101:
    ... the difference was like night & day. ...
    Sounds like a plan, thanks!

  11. #26
    Member Array GettingOld2's Avatar
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    I ran across a couple boxes of .32 S&W Long today. They are round head lead bullets. If I shoot these, should I use a brass brush in the cylinder chambers for cleaning afterwards? The .327 chambers appear to be polished. Is the brass brush OK?

  12. #27
    VIP Member Array Superhouse 15's Avatar
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    I like the round, and availability of ammo from Federal has been good. No Gold Dots yet but plenty of American Eagle and Hydra Shok. Personally, I've fired it in a Charter Arms and it doesn't fill a need for me. I'd like to see it in a 16" lever action carbine myself.

  13. #28
    Member Array LouisianaMan's Avatar
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    GettingOld,
    Sure, blaze away with the .32s, and feel free to use your brass/bronze brush. It's softer than steel & won't harm it.
    Probably the only difficulty you'd experience with buildup from firing shorter cartridges would be if you shot a lot, then didn't clean the residue away at all. A quick cleanup after shooting will keep the gun in fine shape virtually forever.

  14. #29
    Member Array GettingOld2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouisianaMan View Post
    Wolff springs
    I put in the 9 lb. Wolff spring, polished the hammer assembly a bit while I had it apart. I took it to the range today. First and foremost, everything fired reliably: .32 Long, .32 Mag, and all three of the .327's (85gr, 100gr, 115gr).

    My sights re-aligned back more toward the middle. I'm not sure why this would happen other than maybe my grip changed with the lighter trigger, but I'm pleased.

  15. #30
    Member Array LouisianaMan's Avatar
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    It's good to hear that things are shaping up for you. Maybe your SA trigger pull was heavy enough to pull your groups a bit, and the lighter spring has helped. If you're like me, the heavy DA pull was such a distraction that I barely noticed the SA pull, either before or after spring changeout!

    Isn't it amazing what a $10 kit and 20 minutes' work will do to turn a disappointing gun into a pleasure to own?

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