j frame trigger job - Page 2

j frame trigger job

This is a discussion on j frame trigger job within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I know everyone talks about the trigger pull on the S&W snubbies but I really don't feel it's bad at all. I have had NO ...

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Thread: j frame trigger job

  1. #16
    Distinguished Member Array REVMAN's Avatar
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    I know everyone talks about the trigger pull on the S&W snubbies but I really don't feel it's bad at all. I have had NO problem with the pull on my 638 even right out of the box. I would say just dry fire it alot and they say it's gets even better.
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  2. #17
    Senior Member Array Keltyke's Avatar
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    I installed Wolff light weights in my Taurus 85UL (J frame size). Wow! It was a totally different gun! A real joy to shoot and no reliability problems at all. BANG every time.

  3. #18
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    I have a trigger job on my 640 along with a few other tweaks. The builder I used is pretty conservative, so the trigger is still fairly stiff. Seems to work though, so I’m good for now.
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  4. #19
    Member Array Ananael's Avatar
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    Simple directions for the best trigger job money can buy:
    1.) Buy 1000 rounds of ammo.
    2.) Shoot it.

  5. #20
    Member Array mj40p's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ananael View Post
    Simple directions for the best trigger job money can buy:
    1.) Buy 1000 rounds of ammo.
    2.) Shoot it.
    lets see. 10 100 rd boxes 130 grn winchester from wal-mart would be 310.00 if you could find 10 boxes at once. Or you could spend 20.00 for a six pack of azoom snap caps and dry fire 1000 times and save 290.00
    Dry firing made a huge difference in my wifes 642.

  6. #21
    Member Array Dsimon11's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mj40p View Post
    lets see. 10 100 rd boxes 130 grn winchester from wal-mart would be 310.00 if you could find 10 boxes at once. Or you could spend 20.00 for a six pack of azoom snap caps and dry fire 1000 times and save 290.00
    Dry firing made a huge difference in my wifes 642.
    Hahaha...

  7. #22
    Member Array SGT D USMC's Avatar
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    My 642 was 12 lbs new, I reduced it to 8 1/2 lbs. I used the original hammer spring for reliability and the lightest wolf rebound spring (some call it a trigger return spring) I could out run the return of the trigger, sooo at your own risk, I modified the rebound slide. If you look at the rebound slide as it sits in the revolver there is a small step in the top of it both front and rear. the step if only about a 32 of an inch high, I rounded the front step somewhat and polished it. It then rebounds the trigger faster than my finger can go forward.

    I would not do this unless you are willing to replace the rebound slide if it dosn't
    work after doing this. also S&W revolver parts are only surface hardened and I am sure I probably went beyound that, something I would never do with hammer and sear engagement. However the trigger is so sweet now.

    Also I thing that If you have A good trigger scale you will measure very little reduction by dry firing.

  8. #23
    los
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saber View Post
    ...I have a trigger job on my 640 along with a few other tweaks.
    Very nice 640. Looks great with the added sights.!

    What holster do you favor?
    What we've got here is failure to communicate.

  9. #24
    Distinguished Member Array razor02097's Avatar
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    Yes I have tried aftermarket springs. I have tried Wilson Combat and Wolf spring packs. no difference although I did find Wilson Combat spring packs to be better labeled.

    The springs are relatively easy to install also. So long as you know what you are doing and even maybe have a youtube video or two to reference with.

    whether it is reviving an older j frame or lightning the trigger on a newb j frame 8 bucks for new springs is worth it IMO.

    Well I bought a 642 Friday night.
    The triggers a little stiff (guessing 15lbs)
    Has anyone used the Wolff reduced hammer springs.
    Can you get reliablity from the 8 pound?
    Let me know you experience
    I will do a range report and post pics later!
    Thanks
    That trigger is probably more then 15 lbs.
    The 8 pound will not make the trigger 8 lbs. But yes it will reliably set off a .357 magnum or a .38 special
    I have had good experience it is the cure for a botched spring cut job or if the trigger is too heavy.
    looking forward to the range report
    There is something about firing 4,200 thirty millimeter rounds/min that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

  10. #25
    Member Array sabre03's Avatar
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    I have found that J Frame trigger pulls are hit or miss. My M36 is pretty good, my M49 is really stiff and my 640-1 is more like my Python's than a J Frame. I don't mess with them since they are all suitable for the task that a J frmae was designed for.

  11. #26
    Member Array Doctor's Avatar
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    I've put about 250 rounds down my SP101, DAO. That first stiff pull to the hammer release has become more predictable and smoother. The pull feels closer to 15# and I'm still not shooting well (I learned to shoot with a Glock, not a revolver). Is this typical of a double action only? Just ordered the snap caps. I prefer not to do a spring replacement, but the Wolff springs seem so tempting.

    I'm suppose I'm just comparing a revolver to my Glocks...but is that just comparing apples to oranges??
    Glock 36 with Lasermax / Glock 23 / Glock 21. Ruger SP101. Taurus 85.

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  12. #27
    Member Array Marvin Knox's Avatar
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    I had some good trigger work done by an expert (Randy Lee at Apex Tachtical). He not only lightened things up - he installed an extended firing pin to assure reliable ignition.

    If you replace spings down to 8 pounds or so of pull, I suggest an extended firing pin as well. I'm no expert but Randy is. He felt that it would be highly recommended on a light trigger job.

    I have a 640 and a 340 M&P. Both are about the same weight. But the 640 is smoother by a pretty good way. I'm happy with them both.

  13. #28
    VIP Member Array frankmako's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 21bubba View Post
    Before you start changing springs I suggest you get some snap caps and dry fire that snub till you're blue in the face.
    Then rethink the "spring" idea.
    plus one and get some ammo and take her to the range.
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  14. #29
    Distinguished Member Array razor02097's Avatar
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    Extended firing pin huh..... I would be extra careful with that. The extra length doesn't nessesarily mean more reliable. Since revolvers don't have inertia firing pins a longer firing pin isn't necessarily going to help. Worst case is it punches through the primer causing the powder charge to burn backwards cooking the firing pin and quite possibly causing extensive damage to the frame. An 8# hammer spring reliably sets off .357 magnum in my jframe.
    There is something about firing 4,200 thirty millimeter rounds/min that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

  15. #30
    Member Array rcain007's Avatar
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    I too have a similar situation. I bought my wife a Kahr CW9 for her carry weapon. Every trip to the range, the gun would jam on her, and she had trouble racking the slide. (she is a tiny girl) I could pick it and shoot it without any issues at all. This is when I learned about limp wristed recoil. Well anyways, that gun was stolen and replaced with a S&W 442 .38 snubbie. I figured I elimated both issues by getting her the revolver. Well after a few trips to the range, a few hundred rounds, and MUCH dry firing, she can barely pull the trigger to squeeze off one round. Two is out of the question.

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