'Point and click'... revolver 66, 640 & 686
This is a discussion on External safety: What is your preference? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; 'Point and click'... revolver 66, 640 & 686...
'Point and click'... revolver 66, 640 & 686
“Monsters are real and so are ghosts. They live inside of us, and sometimes they win.”
~ Stephen King
I'll second what most everyone has said here, external safeties are just one more thing to manipulate under stress. Can it be done? Absolutely...and a single action weapon needs an external safety. If you carry a 1911 or a HK in SA mode, do lots of practice so that it happens without conscious thought in the right situations.
For real world performance it's ideal to stick with one platform, not switching back and forth. Of course to each their own...just my recommendation.
Sealed Mindset, Director of Training
Personal Safety Training - Family Safety - Corporate Travel Safety | Sealed Mindset
as a hunter all my life i used to think that the safety would become automatic also until during some training events several very experienced 1911 shooters managed to lose the safety on quick draw under pressure drills...one is left wondering what might happen under a stressful life threatening situation...and it left them wondering also...its a joke in training...its real when the time comes to defend your life...
that being said i love my glocks and the holsters that they ride in...
I carry some of everything here and at home. When the proper grip is obtained on a 1911 at the onset of the draw the grip safety is depressed and the thumb should be on top of the safety so a natural downward motion takes it off when needed so it doesn't really effect the speed or accuracy of the first shot. The same can be said of the HK P7 squeeze cockers when a natural grip is obtained the "safety" is taken out of the equation.
When I carry traditional DA/SA autos I simply use the safety as a decocker and leave it off. Glocks and Glock style pistols are simple direct and to the point and are as safe as the guy handling them as is any firearm.
"A first rate man with a third rate gun is far better than the other way around". The gun is a tool, you are the craftsman that makes it work. There are those who say "if I had to do it, I could" yet they never go out and train to do it. Don't let stupid be your mindset. Harryball 2013
Re: Trigger Units on Glock Site
If it has "NY1" and "NY2" those are the trigger units. Maybe there is one for 3lbs, can't remember. The page for the three, Standard, NY1, NY@ is here http://www.glock.com/english/index_options.htm .They have one that brings the weight to 8lbs and another down to 3lbs.
I don't see one for 3 lbs but i know that you can get a 3 lb trigger-weight, with another unit like these, or with a combo: There are also other inserts for the trigger mechanism Glock sells that, when used, adjust the feel of the trigger. Forgot the names for them, but people experiment with combos of inserts to get the trigger-feel they like. I believe Glock is the only company that offers these choices.
Keep in mind though, for Self Defense- there can be legal ramifications that can be used against you in a shooting if you have a light trigger - especially if it varies from the standard the manufacturer sets up when selling to customers. A 3lb trigger would not be a good choice for Self-Defense - either from a legal standpoint or unintentional-discharge one - nerves during a confrontation can make the light trigger a sitting duck for nervous fingers. Best used for target competitions etc. That's the view of many anyway.
I think the standard trigger spring is 5lbs, NY1 is 8lbs and NY2 is 12 lbs. 12 lbs is about what a revolver is at. And then if there's 3 lb, there's that one too.
All the different types of guns can get very confusing when you are a new CCW and new to guns. The classic advice was to shoot a 4" revolver to learn to shoot. Maybe to carry to. The gun is as simple as they get. You can see immediately if it's loaded or not by swinging open the cylinder. If you want to disable it, again just open the cylinder. To keep it from swinging shut until you want it to, use the middle two fingers to grasp the cylinder, and the outer two fingers wrapped around the outside of the frame above the empty space where the cylinder fits when closed - this to hold the whole gun.
The rest is learning to shoot. If you can shoot a revolver well, you can shoot many guns well. It takes a bit because the trigger needs a smooth pull as in any gun but the trigger on a revolver is DA and has a lot of trigger-weight and travel-distance. So, you learn very good trigger control. And you may fall in love with revolvers. They also can be cheap. There a lot of 60s and 70s revolvers in used depts of gun stores that were former police guns, especially 4" 38 Specials - which means they usually were not shot much (though they can have some holster wear.) These can be had for $250-$400. Some of those were known for their superbly built actions.
I know someone this happened to during a altercation. Both his hands were injured enough that he could not disengage the grip safety on his Les Baer (sp?) 1911. He would not be alive if it were not for the actions of another.
I know this type of injury is not likely, but it's happened more than once, and will happen again.
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants."
I am as big a fan of the 1911 as anyone on this board, but there certainly are any number of proven combat handguns available today.IMHO no one has yet to come up with a true COMBAT pistol that can hold a candle to a 1911.
"The pistol, learn it well, carry it always ..." ~ Jeff Cooper
"Dilgentia Vis Celeritas"
I prefer DA, no safety, for my go-to handguns. (SIG P229s & revolvers.)
I learned handgunning with the 1911-style thumb safety, and
have no problems with it. I also carried an 3rd-Generation S&W autopistol , and was able to make do with its safety system. My PD-issued Taser has this same safety system.
I have no problem with the Remington 870 cross-bolt safety, but it took MUCH training to become comfortable with it.
I HATE the semi-auto AR15 safety. Perhaps because most other safeties I have used are pointing at the enemy when ready to fire, the AR15 safety, which points DOWN when ready to fire, is counter-intuitive. The motion may be similar to sweeping-off the 1911 system, but the resultant vertical position of the lever is disturbing, and no amount of training can seem to totally overcome it. I will not use the AR15 for CQB purposes, because of this, even though I believe in the .223 carbine for CQB/HD/SD purposes. There are other .223 rifles with safeties I like, chief among these the Mini-14/Ranch Rifle.
Maybe I'm just a belt and suspenders kind of guy, but I prefer manual safeties. Of course my two primary carries are a Glock 19 and Ruger LCP so I've got not hesitations about guns that don't have them. I don't spend a lot of time d*cking around with the trigger. Which is probably the best safety.
Point and click for me. DAO. Glocks and Ruger LCPs.
When I shoot at the ICE target (big ugly BG pointing a revolver at me) I am always impressed by how many rounds hit the hands. Injuries to the hands are a real possibility, so I don't want to worry about thumb safeties (since I might not have a functional thumb at that moment...).
This is also why I dislike grip safeties. The one on the XD locks the slide unless it is depressed. Try working the slide on an XD doing one-handed manipulation drills. It's hard to do...especially if your thumb is injured.
So, no thanks. Heck - I don't even want a mag disconnect. Keep 'em as simple as possible.
NRA Life Member; Range Safety Officer
www.armedcitizensnetwork.org - member
Glock 30, 19, 26; Ruger LCP (2), LCR, Mini 14; Remington 870; Marlin 336 .30-30
Indifferent because I have 1911s and Glocks. Different designs is all.
No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms.
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