Roughly how much would this cost?

Roughly how much would this cost?

This is a discussion on Roughly how much would this cost? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I did in fact search around for an answer to this question, but I couldn't get what I considered to be a close enough ballpark ...

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Thread: Roughly how much would this cost?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Array EvilMonk's Avatar
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    Question Roughly how much would this cost?

    I did in fact search around for an answer to this question, but I couldn't get what I considered to be a close enough ballpark estimate, so...

    My strategy for upgrading my 1911 A-1 GI (I know I said I wouldn't but many here have said "never" about a LOT of things) is to slowly purchase the items I want, put on the ones I can, and have the rest installed by my local gunsmith all at once when I can afford it.

    The items I am going to have put on by the gunsmith are as follows:

    "Snag-Free" three dot sights
    Storm Lake match grade barrel
    Wilson Combat "Value Line" Commander Hammer (with new strut and pin)
    Wilson Combat Beaver Tail Grip Safety
    Extended Thumb Safety

    Optional; Price Dependent Modifications:

    "Melting" De-burr job
    Re-finishing in Matte Black

    Any idea how much this would cost? Keep in mind that I will be plunking the parts and gun down on his counter, so I won't have to pay for his choice of parts and so on.

    I'm also planning to do other mods myself such as:

    VZ Gator thin grips
    Flat Chainlink Mainspring Housing
    Titanium Mainspring Cap

    One other question for those in "the know"...

    Springs. I would like to put a Wolff Variable Power Recoil Spring in that has 16 1/2 lbs of pressure. The factory is 16 lbs. I carry Cor-Bon Pow'r ball as my Defensive load, but I don't want an 18 pounder that won't cycle at the range for target practice with ball ammo. How about the Mainspring? The factory is 23 lbs. I am looking at a 20 lbs spring to keep some of the wear off the slide and hammer during the firing of hotter loads, and in some ways to compensate the heavier weight of the recoil spring.

    I've decided on these mods after shooting the weapon and yes, springs aside, my heart is fairly set on them, but thoughts and criticisms are always welcome!

    That which does not kill us leaves us broken and bleeding...

    Donít mess with the guy who can barely stand up. His remaining options for self-defense don't include your survival.

    Convenire Volui Spectatus


  2. #2
    VIP Member Array automatic slim's Avatar
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    If you're going through all the trouble of installing sights, might as well install nite sights. The hammer/strut typically are drop in items and Wilson makes a drop in beavertail.
    Considering all parts and labor, I'd say you're looking at about $1,000.00.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Array jca1's Avatar
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    I'd do a bulletproof hammer instead of a valueline.

    The barrel will cost the most to install.

    I'd say $700+
    If I gave a crap about what you think about my guns.....it was early this morning and I already flushed it!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Array HK Dan's Avatar
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    I'd just buy a gun with all of that on it from the factory. You're asking for heartache when you start modding up a 1911--a snarky, finnicky gun to begin with.

    A fellow USPSA shooter modded up his GI 1911--extended beavertail, trigger job, extended this, ambidextrous that--and made it a complete paper weight. He wound up with a Wilson later that year.
    "What does Marcellus Wallace LOOK like?"

  5. #5
    kpw
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    VIP Member Array kpw's Avatar
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    Save longer and have a good 'smith do it all or sell it and use it for a deposit on a Wilson, Brown or Baer. Cheaper route would be a decent lightly used DW.
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  6. #6
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    I think it's worth having a discussion with a gunsmith you trust first, to get his input as to worthwhile add-ons and their cost. Metalworking (the melt job) and refinishing are often the most costly part of custom work because they involve mostly hand labor. Your gunsmith can guide you as to what the most economical sequence will be.

    With respect to springs... I'd stick to the flat-rated ones rather than the variable power model from Wolff. I tried that once and ended up juggling springs for the next couple of months to make everything work right; ended up back with the standard weight spring. This worked fine with my carry loads (Fed Hydra Shok and Silvertip) as well as 230 ball and 200 gr IPSC-major reloads - a pretty broad spectrum. I don't know that the Powr Ball requires a different spring; the best way to tell is to see where your brass falls. If it launches into the next county, you need a heavier spring; if it barely clears the ejection port and lands at your feet, you need a lighter spring.

    Lastly - careful with the mainsprings, and here's where guidance from a good 1911 'smith is valuable. I'm not sure your path (lighter mainspring) is consistent with your goal (keeping wear off the slide and hammer, etc.).
    Smitty
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  7. #7
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    Go with the EGW (Evolution Gun Works) Ultimate Trigger Kit. $119.00
    That gives you the finest hammer, sear, disconnector, & spring available today bar none.

    Go with a Titanium hammer strut & a Titanium mainspring cap. NEVER a Titanium firing pin.

    Barrel - Ed Brown with fit bushing - or Storm Lake.

    Also the EGW slide stop & thumb safety - neither one is a drop in BTW.
    Absolutely the finest parts made today.

    Then opt for the EGW pin kit and replace all of the pins. (Cheap Insurance)

    Then the Falcon Arms 16.5# variable Chrome Silicon recoil spring.

  8. #8
    Member Array Sleipnir's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QKShooter View Post
    Go with the EGW (Evolution Gun Works) Ultimate Trigger Kit. $119.00
    That gives you the finest hammer, sear, disconnector, & spring available today bar none.

    Go with a Titanium hammer strut & a Titanium mainspring cap. NEVER a Titanium firing pin.

    Barrel - Ed Brown with fit bushing - or Storm Lake.

    Also the EGW slide stop & thumb safety - neither one is a drop in BTW.
    Absolutely the finest parts made today.

    Then opt for the EGW pin kit and replace all of the pins. (Cheap Insurance)

    Then the Falcon Arms 16.5# variable Chrome Silicon recoil spring.
    Just curious as to why not use a titanium firing pin?

  9. #9
    VIP Member Array varob's Avatar
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    Before I spent the money on all that stuff, I'd look into a Springfield Loaded.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by varob View Post
    Before I spent the money on all that stuff, I'd look into a Springfield Loaded.
    +1. It's always cheaper to buy a gun all together. Buying one piece at a time costs twice as much and youy gun will spend YEARS at the gunsmith. I know because I bought a 1911 carry gun two years ago and it has spent 1.5 years in the shop. Gunsmiths are not fast and they are certainly not cheap.
    It is surely true that you can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink. Nor can you make them grateful for your efforts.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Array EvilMonk's Avatar
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    Thank you for all the quick replies!

    I see the wisdom of simply purchasing a weapon that already has the features I want/need, but with my lower income I felt this to be the best choice for upgrades. Besides, this way I can get what I want, but...

    Good points raised. Things to think over. Thanks for the info on the springs, that was a real "?" for me.

    That which does not kill us leaves us broken and bleeding...

    Donít mess with the guy who can barely stand up. His remaining options for self-defense don't include your survival.

    Convenire Volui Spectatus

  12. #12
    Ex Member Array Don Glock's Avatar
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    i would get the ignition system from C&S.

  13. #13
    VIP Member Array TWO GUNS's Avatar
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    I think you could have fun in building your 1911 the way you want it.Since you are low on funds you can do the 5 year build thing like I did many years ago.Just take your time and find a good gunsmith.The main thing is that your gun is reliable.
    Have Fun and Shoot Straight !!

  14. #14
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    Titanium firing pins. Great idea that just does not seem to work out with 100% reliabity in actual use.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sleipnir View Post
    Just curious as to why not use a titanium firing pin?

  15. #15
    Ex Member Array Don Glock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QKShooter View Post
    Titanium firing pins. Great idea that just does not seem to work out with 100% reliabity in actual use.


    I haven't heard of any issues with springifeld's titanium firing pins. They've been quite the successful alternative to colt's series 80 safety system.

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