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4K views 44 replies 19 participants last post by  jonconsiglio 
#1 ·
This is kinda a extention of another thread but I have my 1911 choices down to 2 guns.
1. Colt series 80 with a Wilson combat drop in grip safety new grips and a trigger job.
2. Taurus with wilson match grade barrel, wilson guide rod and recoil spring, and then a trigger job and then new grips.

Both guns are brand new and I have priced the parts from a distributor and the Taurus will acually be about $150 more as listed above. I am not sure which way to lean the good ole colt or a taurus sleeper???
 
#5 ·
I would buy all the parts online and have my gun Smith handle it. I was ready to go colt 100% but the idea of a gutted Taurus as a sleeper caught my attention. I want to buy one or the other this week and finish upgrades before Oct1.
 
#9 ·
My gun Smith will and didn't think the colt needed upgrades like the Taurus would.

OK, this comes off as one of the worst ideas I've heard in a while, I don't mean to sound rude or anything but this stuff just doesn't jive.

If you're going to have a gun built, have it built right, why a drop in beaver tail instead of a properly blended beaver tail? Why be willing to go for an upgraded aftermarket match barrel in one, but leave the stock barrel in the other? Why invest "X $" into a Taurus? Sleeper gun? :scruntiny: Who is going to think it's a sleeper? The Taurus is thought my some to be all that and a bag of chips, I'm not one of them and would not invest that level of work into a Taurus, besides, if you're going to do all that, you might as well spring for refinishing as well.

All that aside, neither gun really NEEDs those upgrades, other than the beavertail on the Colt, all the other stuff is just fluff. Pending on what Colt you buy, some of the newer ones all ready have a proper beavertail, why not buy one of those like the Combat Elite?

As for match barrels, They may give a little edge, but in most cases persons would be better off in putting the $$$ on the cost of a barrel + fitting into a holster and 6 quality magazines from Wilson etc. Getting a good stable of mags would take priority over all the other fluff.

My advice would be to buy the Combat Elite, spend a lot of time getting used to it, get good mags. Spend three years researching what options you like/dislike and then have the gun changed.

I've got more to say, but I'm making dinner and it's time to start the chicken cooking.

To Be Continued.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the info. I guess colt wins! Other than a proper beaver tail what does it need? I am stuck on the series 80 all stainless cuz I have one at the shop and that means DISCOUNT!
 
#11 ·
"My advice would be to buy the Combat Elite,"

Ditto JD & then only make further alterations or modifications if you feel that you need them.

Example: After shooting the firearm for a while you decide that you would prefer a short trigger.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Of your two choices I would go with the Colt, but it wouldn't be my first choice.

If I was looking to spend around $800 or so dollars I'd probably get a Springfield "Loaded" Model and be done with it. Not knowing the quality of the work I'm leery to give the nod to either gun.

EDIT TO ADD: The Taurus will be a Taurus, no matter what you drop in to it.

Biker
 
#16 ·
My vote for the Colt as well. Don't disqualify me for not having one at this time. I was at one time considering the Taurus PT1911. Asked the forum about it. I'd be plenty happy with the Colt 1911 issued to me in 1982 to tell the truth.
 
#20 ·
I did plan on having the hammer altered to acomodate the beavertail. I ment black I was just gonna buy an stainless one and have it anodized, but blued might be cool. as far as discounts. It will cost me $100 even to have a trigger job, general clean up, hammer bobbed, and beaver tail installed. If I blue the beaver tail and the slide he will do that for free.
 
#31 ·
"was gonna buy stainless and have it... blued"
Dragman, while I'm no expert (I can PROVE that) I don't think stainless can be blued.
Nothing wrong with a "project" gun, but factory-built, with the features you've "gotta have" gets you the better gun (IMHO).
++IMPORTANT if you plan to carry it. Have fun, be safe.
DAN
 
#22 ·
Let me first say this: JD knows his 1911s. He buys top quality guns and knows how to use them. I own 4, but to be honest, they are my least favorite guns in the locker. One happens to be a Colt Series 80 (I also own a Springfield Loaded). The previous poster was dead right--BUY THE SPRINGFIELD.

At any given USPSA match or IDPA outing, you see 1911s fail. Every match, someone's 1911 is puking it's guts up or choking on ammo, or locking uptight or launching a barrel gushing and guide rod into the side berm. Usually--and I'm talking 90/10 odds here--those guns have been modded up by a smith, parts swapped out, whiz-bang go-fast additions oir substitutions have been made. The stock 1911s, run by a guy who knows how to shoot one at speed? Those do fine.

My advice is simple--get what you want on a 1911, but get it from the factory. Don't think you'll buy a GI model and make it into a Nighthawk Custom by swapping out parts. It won't happen, and you'll spend more doing that than if you bought the gun with the parts on it from the factory. I can give you the address of a guy who tried; he sold the jamming POS GI model with all it's mods and bought a really nice S&W Performance Center 1911 that was loaded to the gills.

Listen to JD. Don't mod it up. Pick the features you want and buy the gun with those features. You'll be happier and you'll have a gun you can trust.

Dan
 
#26 ·
My first 1911 should be here Saturday. RIA full size GI model with Hogue grips. I'm not planning on doing a thing to it but shooting it...and carrying it occasionally. We'll see if I stick to that plan over time. I love the beautiful 1911s, might have one some day. I agree with some of the sentiments here that if you're going to spend the money to build one, why not invest the money to buy one that an experienced professional (insert company name here) engineer built that way from the beginning. For me, I wanted a basic entry 1911. That's what I've got coming.
 
#30 ·
I should forget the Taurus and get a Colt. However, before I start to make any changes I would shoot the gun for a while so I get use to it. Not before that I should start to think about what really needs to be changed.
 
#33 ·
This is so typical of 1911 lore. No matter who makes it, it just has to be upgraded/improved/changed.

While I don't have a 1911 story to tell, I do have a comparable tale about listening to all the gun rags and popular "must do" rages.

I bought my Rem 700 ADL in '75. At the time the big thing was reducing the weight of hunting rifles as much as possible. "Ounces become pounds," everyone said, "the higher and farther you have to carry the gun." Well, that seemed to make sense. So I followed all the pundits' advice and shaved over a lb off my 700. The result? It kicked so hard I couldn'd stand to fire more than a box of rounds. So I reworked and undid everything I had done and then some, adding back the weight plus more. Now I can take that same rifle and shoot it all day long at the range. All that time and work wasted when all I needed was a better sling.

The moral of the story: Whichever you decide to buy, change/upgrade/improve what needs to be, not what everyone says must be. It's disheartening to spend $100 on an upgrade that results in a $2 improvement.
 
#34 ·
You're getting some excellent advice for the most part in this thread, heed it. You've never shot the pistol, if I'm reading correctly, you don't even own one of them yet, why do you feel they need to be altered? One, of the 2 you listed, the Colt is the better pistol, I wouldn't change anything on it without first having shot a few thousand rounds thru the pistol. Two, of the things you've said about your "gunsmith" in a couple of your posts, I would find a new one, this guys main concern is "selling" you stuff, whether you need it or not. Three, I agree with JD, if you absolutely must have certain features, buy the pistol already built that way from the factory, you'll save a great deal of money in the long run.
 
#36 ·
There is a lot of good info here Thanks ALL. As far as shooting this gun no I haven't, but I have shot a National match, 70 series, Defender, and a hand built comp gun all by colt. I do tend to like the beavertail safety so I will probably just change that off the bat, and then leave anything else until I have become completely comfortable with the weapon (2000-3000) rounds.
 
#35 ·
Well, This isn't gonna be a primary carry gun it will probably be a range only gun my EDC gun will continue to be either my XD or an M&P. As far as improvements I have felt stock colt triggers VS ones that have been worked over by my gun smith and I like the feel after he gets done. Really $100 for a nicer trigger and a more comfortable grip safety and grips (looks only) just isn't much. I have so many ideas going through my head about what moves to make gun wise its kinda driving me nutz!!! I should just buy something and get it all over with.
 
#37 ·
I have so many ideas going through my head about what moves to make gun wise its kinda driving me nutz!!! I should just buy something and get it all over with.
No, this is absolutely the wrong time to buy, you don't know what you want, you have limited experience with the 1911 platform, you won't be getting over anything, you just wind up settling for something, which is never a good idea. Chill-out, learn the 1911 platform first, they aren't going to stop making them, when you do, buy the best quality 1911 you can afford, it's best to buy once, cry once. :wink:
 
#38 ·
I couldn't help myself. I bought the colt. It was a deal I couldn't refuse!!!! even if i trade or sell it later for something else I will probably end up even money. I am not gonna change anything on it until I send a few thousand rounds through it and learn a little more about the 1911 world. Gonna post a new thread for the colt and the EDC I just got.
 
#43 ·
Stainless cannot be blued, though it can be coated (Cerakote, Perma Kote) or treated (Hard Hat). Bluing is actually a stain and a sort of corrosion. I have a number of 1911's. I have 2 Nighthawk's, just sold one, and have another on order. I have a Benny Hill, a VBOB and a Springer as well a Colt form the late 70's (first gun I shot when I was 10 in 1990!). I've owned many, many others and have always carried one. I shoot at least 4 times a week or more. So, I have a little experience with these things.

If you use an aggressive thumbs forward grip, two things are a must... a beavertail grip safety and a good, comfortable thumb safety. If you use a revolver grip, no need for a beavertail safety, though it still aids in a a fast draw at times.

Good magazines are a must. I have a few dozen Wilson 47D's with standard and slim basepads. Good sights are a must as well. I prefer a two dot or single dot set up, I do not like the three dot set up. I also like a wide U notch, somewhere around .150 with a .125 front sight. I prefer to have 25 lpi front strap checkering and a semi-tacky grip panel like the VZ Gatorbacks. They vary in texture if you go with a finished G10 or a blasted canvas. I prefer the blasted canvas.

I also prefer a finished gun, preferably IonBond (Diamond Black from Nighthawk) or maybe Hard Hat. I've owned all the others basically and prefer the IonBond for it's superior durability and corrosion resistance. My stainless VBOB shows rust after a couple days on the stainless slide and my blue over stainless Ed Brown showed rust on the frame and a touch in the cocking serrations. NP3 and Hard Chrome are too slick for my needs. I shoot some competition, take a classes and have some set-ups on a friend's land. I much prefer the feel when running a black gun, especially in the rain or when it's very hot and humid. Coatings are OK if it's Perma Kote or a better finish. Duracoat is out for me.

Everyone has opinions, but there are a few things that just are the way they are. Finish durability. Beavertail depending on grip. Tool steel over MIM.

I would NEVER buy a Taurus, let alone their 1911's!
 
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