I love my snub. It's been my trusty weak side secondary access weapon and my primary on many occasions for several years. After several hundred rounds, I got fairly proficient with it from 15 yards. All was right with the world.
About a week or so ago, I started dry-fire practicing with my weak hand since I haven't had much range time lately. I practiced keeping it on point of aim while pulling the trigger, double taps, and firing from weapon orientations other than just straight up and down (figure weak side probably won't be perfect). PROBLEM!!! I noticed in rapid fire and at some angles, if I didn't let the trigger re-set completely (I mean almost finger back off the trigger) the trigger would lock stone cold and not budge. I'd have to let all the way back off and pull. It wasn't a permanent lock, but it happened enough that it wasn't acceptable.
So, I figured if I was going to have to go in for surgery I might as well order a sef of Wolff springs and do the whole nine yards.
Here's the before pic:
1) Removed grip
2) Removed three exterior plate screws and cylinder release screw/button on opposite side
3) Removed plate (tapped on frame handle with little wood mallet and it popped off)
4) Removed main spring assembly (pull trigger back slowly, hold, and put pin through hole in the bar to hold spring compressed and pull it all out)
5) Remove hammer (pull trigger back slowly until it clears frame on the inside and lift out with tweezers)
6) Remove cylinder bolt (w/ tweezers pull back and out, don't lose spring loaded plunger)
Here is the lock in the gun:
7) REMOVE THE LOCK (hold the small spring down from the frame slot and lift out with tweezers). That's it.
8) Remove trigger return spring assembly (pry out with small pic and hold plastic bowl over while you do it so the spring won't fly)
9) Remove trigger (pull the verticle bar back and lift out)
10) With 1500 grit emory, smooth all contact points of trigger, sear, and hammer until shiny and smooth. Gently, not over done.
9) Replaced the factory trigger return spring (18# spring) with a Wolff 14# spring.
10) Replaced main spring (hammer spring, factory 12# pull) with a Wolff 8# spring)
11) Put everything back (the trigger return spring assembly was tricky without the tool made for it...but a Stanley 1/32" nail set worked perfectly the 1st try)
12) I replaced the factory grip with an old S&W Chief's Special grip. It fits my hand better and gets it higher on the bore axis which improves recoil and accuracy tremendously. Gives it an old school look and is easier for me to draw from my pocket either hand. Since this is a square butt grip and a round butt gun, I am making a wooden piece to fill the void perfectly. It will be painted matte black to look like the backstrap and will be glued and pinned to one grip side not the gun. Effectively, but not permanantly, converting it to a square butt which fits my hand great.
I dry fired it many times after it was all together and was never able to replicate the trigger lock-up. PROBLEM FIXED!!! I put 50 through it this afternoon and from 12 yards I was punching out the center circle of the shoot-n-see target (3" circle). I was ecstatic, it felt great, and is now a dream to shoot and shoot dead on target. Now the only thing left is the grip void piece and to paint a bright orange section on the front ramp sight.
Just thought I would share the problem, the solution, and the outcome...hope it helps someone else before they have an issue. It all only took about an hour, and that was taking my time.