Replacing recoil springs on new Kimber....

This is a discussion on Replacing recoil springs on new Kimber.... within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I was reading the manual on my new Kimber Pro Carry II 9mm, and it suggests replacing the recoil spring around 800 rounds. Do I ...

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Thread: Replacing recoil springs on new Kimber....

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    Member Array claybreaker0's Avatar
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    Replacing recoil springs on new Kimber....

    I was reading the manual on my new Kimber Pro Carry II 9mm, and it suggests replacing the recoil spring around 800 rounds. Do I have to get recoil springs from Kimber? The website says the spring rate is 14 lbs (lower than the 22lbs bc of 9mm instead of 45). The whole spring unit looks pretty looks pretty intricate, how easy is this to do? Does any one have a good "How To" direction they can point me in? Or suggestions? Thanks.
    Last edited by claybreaker0; September 29th, 2010 at 09:31 PM.
    "Being armed gives you options"

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    Nope, you can get springs from any supplier; Wolff Gun Springs is pretty much the top supplier out there.

    Normal field stripping (routine disassembly) of your 1911 for cleaning involves removing the spring - there's no special procedure required.

    Sounds like you're new to the 1911. Taking the gun apart is no big deal, but it really does help to see it done in person. Once you've done it a couple of times, all but the most inept could do it blindfolded. If your gun has a full-length guide rod it's one percent more complicated, but certainly not complex. If you have a friend with a 1911, perhaps have him show you, otherwise go to the store where you bought the gun and ask them to show you. The standard beginner's mistake puts a nice scratch on the left side of the frame from re-installing the slide stop. DAMHIK.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gasmitty View Post
    The standard beginner's mistake puts a nice scratch on the left side of the frame from re-installing the slide stop. DAMHIK.
    HaHa you hit the nail on the head!!! I have no problem taking the gun apart now. But it looks like it's a double spring assembly? The gun does have a full length guide rod, but it is not set up like an XD, M&P or Glock, where the spring rides over the guide rod. If that were the case, it sure would be easy to change them out.
    "Being armed gives you options"

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    Take a look here.

    It shows you how.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKAJV...eature=related

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    Senior Member Array JohnLeVick's Avatar
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    It should be a single spring on the "Pro" models, unless Kimber has recently changed. As far as I know, only the 3" Ultra-Carry sized guns have a dual spring assembly, which does require a bit more work. Here's the procedure for a single-spring 4-incher:
    1. With an empty gun and no mag in the well, obviously, lock the slide back with the slide stop.
    2. Your gun should have come with a little L-shaped wire to hold the recoil spring plug in place. If it did not, use a heavy duty paper clip and make an "L" with the short end about 1/8"-3/16" long and the long end about 1 1/4".
    3. With the muzzle down, insert the short end of the wire into the hole in the guide rod, with the long end lying alongside the guide rod.
    4. Carefully release the slide and ease it forward until the recoil spring plug is captured by the wire.
    5. Line up the disassembly notch in the slide with the lug on the slide stop and remove the slide stop. The slide, barrel and guide rod/spring assembly will come off the front of the frame now.
    6. Remove the guide rod/spring assembly. It may take a little jiggling to line up so it comes free, but it is usually pretty easy.
    7. Put the base of the guide rod on a solid, flat surface, pull back on the recoil spring plug, remove the wire, and carefully release the tension on the spring. (This is where you should likely be wearing safety glasses, and have a spotter to find the plug after it bounces off the ceiling.)
    8. Replace the spring and reverse the procedure. It should be pretty intuitive from here.

    FWIW, 14 lbs. is pretty light, even for 9x19, in a 4" gun. I'd be inclined to put in a 16-pounder, especially if +P or +P+ ammo is going to be used. Kimber has sold a bunch of 4" guns with too-light recoil springs, many to the point that they don't feed, right out of the box. All those I've seen have been .45s, though.

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    Member Array claybreaker0's Avatar
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    Thank you so much for your help. My gun is actually at the Gun Smith getting Meprolight night sights installed. I will get it back Saturday and break it down. I found the below spring, what do you think? I believe my 1911 is a "Commander" since it is the 4" model correct? This is the 16lb spring, per your advice. I will mostly be shooting Federal 115gr practice rounds, but Speer GD 124+P will be my carry load. I do think a heavier spring will be better for those plus power loads. I have yet to try them out, so I'm pretty excited.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=439124
    "Being armed gives you options"

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    Distinguished Member Array mr.stuart's Avatar
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    Why would the spring need to be replaced after 800 rounds?Glock springs and the XD for that matter,seem to go on and on.Is it the design of the Kimber?Curious.

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    Quote Originally Posted by claybreaker0 View Post
    Thank you so much for your help. My gun is actually at the Gun Smith getting Meprolight night sights installed. I will get it back Saturday and break it down. I found the below spring, what do you think? I believe my 1911 is a "Commander" since it is the 4" model correct? This is the 16lb spring, per your advice. I will mostly be shooting Federal 115gr practice rounds, but Speer GD 124+P will be my carry load. I do think a heavier spring will be better for those plus power loads. I have yet to try them out, so I'm pretty excited.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=439124
    "Factory 1911 recoil springs are 16 pounds in 45 ACP, 14 pounds in 38 Super, 9mm Luger, 38 Special Midrange, Colt Ace 22 conversion kit, and 19 pounds in 40 S&W." - from the Midway site.

    But from John's advice, it's probably worth getting a 16# as well as a 14#. Recoil springs are cheap, and most diehard 1911 guys have a few on hand of different weights. Use the 14# with your practice ammo, the non +P stuff, then replace with the 16 if you carry the hotter ammo. But before you commit to that, make absolutely certain your gun functions reliably with the combo of spring and ammo you choose.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr.stuart View Post
    Why would the spring need to be replaced after 800 rounds?Glock springs and the XD for that matter,seem to go on and on.Is it the design of the Kimber?Curious.
    With the bushingless bull barrel designs, the spring is crammed into a shorter space than with the a conventional arrangement. In operation, the spring is compressed that much more, which puts the spring closer to its design limit on every cycle. As an illustration, most compression (coil) springs are not designed to be operated to full compression, i.e., their "solid" height. The closer you get to that solid height, the greater the cyclic strain (load-relax-load), which is what "wears out" springs.
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    Distinguished Member Array mr.stuart's Avatar
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    That is interesting

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    I don't know if you are aware of this but Kimber uses Wolff springs from the factory.

    This is what you want.

    http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%...1/mID32/dID413
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    I have a Kimber Pro-Carry and it's a single spring set up, although mine's a .45. Having a 4" barrel does not make it a commander (4.25"). Follow John's instructions to the letter regarding disassembly. Be darn careful when removing the wire tool from the guide rod as it's extremely compressed. By all means wear safety glasses. When reassembling, you might consider installing a shok buff with the new springs.
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    True Commander length is 4 1/4", and they have a little longer spring tunnel. The correct springs for the bull-barrel 4" guns like the Kimbers and Springfield Champions are a bit different; should have fewer coils. Some Commander springs will "go solid" in a 4" gun and damage it. I would not ever install a shock buff in a 4" gun; there is just not enough spring tunnel to do so, which is why they use the reverse bushing and bull barrel setup. It is not needed in a 9mm, anyway. I even quit using them in .45s years ago. Every 1911 I've seen with a cracked frame had a shock buff installed. Cause and effect? I don't know.

    Wolff springs are good, but ISMI will last a little longer. I'm not sure if Mark (ISMI) makes them for 4" guns, but if he does, his chrome silicon springs will outlast Wolff springs by some. Mark Cosat is an aerospace engineer, and he knows things about steel alloys.

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    I'll say it... For what a Kimber costs, I'd expect a recoil spring to last more than 800 rounds and that they'd supply a replacement with the purchase. Cheap $#@*&s!
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