Lost some confidence in my S&W 340.

This is a discussion on Lost some confidence in my S&W 340. within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; If it is an internal lock model, I'd start by removing it. I was having some slight issues with rapid dry fire in my 442, ...

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Thread: Lost some confidence in my S&W 340.

  1. #16
    VIP Member Array BugDude's Avatar
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    If it is an internal lock model, I'd start by removing it. I was having some slight issues with rapid dry fire in my 442, removed the IL, replaced both the main and trigger return springs with lighter wolff, lightly sanded the contact points and it made a whole new gun out of it. No more issues.
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  3. #17
    Member Array Cosmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tangle View Post
    Nonsense, don't you guys read the threads - revolvers don't have failures; they're more reliable than autos. Couldn't resist saying that but JUST KIDDIN" GUYS!
    Come on...we all know that revolvers have all kinds of problems...except of course for the ones with SW or Ruger stamped on them!
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  4. #18
    Member Array richgp100z's Avatar
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    That is why I buy steel revolvers. 2 major brands,,,,,,,,, Smith&Wesson or RUGER. ENOUGH SAID.

  5. #19
    Senior Member Array usmc3169's Avatar
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    > BigGary - I saw some issues firing the cheap "Blazer" ammo with the bullet unseating from the steel casing - havent seen that issue at all with brass cased ammo.
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  6. #20
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    I have a 340 airlite ti, I don't think it's being produced currently. It has an aluminum frame with a Titanium cylinder, and an enclosed hammer. The thing weighs about 11 oz as I recall. I've shot it a bit, it kicks like a mule, but I haven't had any problems with it. Maybe something wasn't quite right with yours from the start and it's showed up. I'm sure S&W can and will get it running reliably.
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  7. #21
    VIP Member Array jwhite75's Avatar
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    I have the same gun and havent had problems yet....but .357 is a lot of strain on the shooter, has to be hard on the gun.
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  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tangle View Post
    Nonsense, don't you guys read the threads - revolvers don't have failures; they're more reliable than autos. Couldn't resist saying that but JUST KIDDIN" GUYS!
    Yeah Tangle, but ya missed the part where the revolver fired 4 times before it locked up. For a revolver guy, that is 4 downed goblins. :)

  9. #23
    Member Array kgwld1's Avatar
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    I have the 340 m&p with alittle over 2000 rounds through mine all to .357. One poster pointed out that maybe last round is moving in the brass to help create a timing problem.
    i dry fire mine a ton and can replicate your problem if i don't reset the trigger fully. And if your like me your duty gun I'm sure is a auto that your use to with a short trigger reset maybe you could be riding the trigger a bit without full extension. I notice I do this a bit when you are firing the full house .357 and switching back and forth between the autos.
    Let us know how it goes good luck...

  10. #24
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    Yep, all mechanical devices can fail; revolvers too. I am sorry about what is happening to you; hopefully you will get it back soon and then it will work like it supposes to do.
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  11. #25
    Member Array Eldon Hickey's Avatar
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    I had a 340pd too that I recently sold. I had no mechanical problems...just didn't like the internal lock and decided to find a pre-lock airweight.
    I also did not fire 357's in it. An 11 oz. gun that will safely handle 38 plusP is a pretty cool deal. I'd be willing to bet that steady diet of .357's
    is the basis of your problem, and that the recoil of 4 rounds is causing that 5th bullet to unseat just enough to bind the cylinder. I commend your courage and fortitude at being able to shoot .357's in that thing. I might load them for carry and occasional practice, but not all the time. OUCH!

  12. #26
    Senior Member Array Super Trucker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eldon Hickey View Post
    I had a 340pd too that I recently sold. I had no mechanical problems...just didn't like the internal lock and decided to find a pre-lock airweight.
    I also did not fire 357's in it. An 11 oz. gun that will safely handle 38 plusP is a pretty cool deal. I'd be willing to bet that steady diet of .357's
    is the basis of your problem, and that the recoil of 4 rounds is causing that 5th bullet to unseat just enough to bind the cylinder. I commend your courage and fortitude at being able to shoot .357's in that thing. I might load them for carry and occasional practice, but not all the time. OUCH!
    You do know that for $20.00 and 20 minutes of your time, all the S&W revolvers can become lock free right? There is a guy that sells a plug for the S&W, you remove ALL parts of the lock and put the plug in its place. Then it is impossible to have a lock related malfunction.
    I run the Speer SB .357 ammo in my 340 and have had no issues with it.

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rson63 View Post
    I've got a 642 Airweight that was doing the same thing, it's not as bad as it was but theres still a little lag when the trigger resets. I've oiled the trigger and it's getting better? is it ok to dry fire revolvers ? Good luck on the fix- USMC
    Funny, I've never had any issues with MY 642. And of course it's okay to dry fire a revolver as long as it's NOT one of the older S&W's with the free floating firing pin on the hammer. Still, if the gun isn't yours, it's considered proper gun etiquette to ask the owner if it's okay to dry fire. Courtesy.
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  14. #28
    Member Array rangemeister's Avatar
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    My shooting buddy had the exact same problem. The gun went back and now it is working fine. He, like me, is a SW revolver fan. They will get it well for you!

  15. #29
    Senior Member Array usmc3169's Avatar
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    OK I feel much better. Gun went back to S&W, returned to my shop along with a note. There was some sort of issue with the barrel, so they completely replaced it. The timing was adjusted and the trigger was polished up. I fired about 100 rds .357 through it with no problems at all. The gun is better than new, and S&W customer service got a nice letter from me. Cost to me? $25 for the gunsmith's shipping costs.
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  16. #30
    VIP Member Array TedBeau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by big gary View Post
    i have a 340 a remember reading that you should check your ammo to make sure it is not letting the lead move forward out of the brass on these superlight guns. could this be the problem? like the 5th round.
    Yeah that sounds possible. I have heard that using 357 loads in a light gun can cause the bullet to creep out, causing the cylinder to lock up. If that's the case it might be that it takes about 5 shots to make the bullet jump. That or as soemone said, if it's always the same cylinder than maybe it's a defect or burr on the cylinder where the tang that crives the cylinder around engages on that particular location.

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