Bobbed LW operator.
This is a discussion on Bobbed LW operator. within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Nice job. I bobbed my S&W 5" 1911. It is much easier to settle in my hand when drawing from a forward canted IWB holster. ...
January 8th, 2011 08:19 PM
Nice job. I bobbed my S&W 5" 1911. It is much easier to settle in my hand when drawing from a forward canted IWB holster. It just rolls right up into my hand like it is on a hinge pin. Gone is the poke in the ribs when sitting in a bucket seat.
Before the bobtail, the first contact with my hand while drawing was hard against the rear corner of the grip. Once the gun was brought up, I would then have to reposition my handgrip to work the slack out for a more solid feeling purchase on the gun.
Many thanks goes out to the Ed Brown folks for providing us with the means to make our guns fit us and our needs. All we have to provide is the guts to cut the corners off our frames!
January 8th, 2011 09:17 PM
Wow! I had no idea you could do that! I need to get out more. I also need a 1911 too.
January 8th, 2011 10:11 PM
Wow, thanks guys! My bravery can often be misinterpreted as stupidity!
As to the process, it's really pretty basic, and multiple methods will achieve the same results. As long as you are pretty good with your hands, and can work with metal, you should be ok. It's ok to be a little nervous, I was!
You have to have the Ed Brown jig, it comes with instructions to drill the new MSH hole. Drill press or milling machine is preferred.
Once that is done, it's down to fitting and trimming. I had to clearance the grip safety to the new MSH, so I took the cheapest part, grip safety, and ground on it for clearance.
Once the MSH hole is drilled and the hole enlarged slightly, #22 drill bit is .001 larger than the original drill bit, and makes for a perfect fit on the MSH pin.
Next would be to install MSH and mark frame to cut. You can use an end mill with milling machine, band saw, or a dotco (cut off wheel). I used the dotco, but would have preferred the mill if I had one.
Once the rough cut is made, start taking off material equally on both sides to fit the frame to MSH. I had to cut deeper than I would have liked to completely remove the old pin hole, but that's the way the ball bounces. You can use a fine sanding disk and the dotco for a little bit to get within a few thousands, but then a good wide file is best to finish with. That way it is perfectly flat and square.
The radius the sides to your preference. Take care not to take any more material out from directly below the new MSH pin hole than you have to.
Refinish frame as desired.
That's really all there is to it. Time and patience. Go slow, and measure 3x, and cut/drill 1x! The aluminum frame cut and blended real easy. I'd expect steel to be a bit more of a challenge, and I'd defenitely have been going over to a buddies house to borrow his mill for that job!
SA LW Champion Operator x 2!
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