How to Properly Lube a Kahr Pistol - Diagram

This is a discussion on How to Properly Lube a Kahr Pistol - Diagram within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; It has always bothered me that Kahr gives no specific lube instructions in their manual. It is a serious shortcoming for any pistol manual to ...

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Thread: How to Properly Lube a Kahr Pistol - Diagram

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member Array LanceORYGUN's Avatar
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    How to Properly Lube a Kahr Pistol - Diagram

    It has always bothered me that Kahr gives no specific lube instructions in their manual. It is a serious shortcoming for any pistol manual to have, in my opinion. ALL of my other pistols have such instructions in their documentation.

    In any event, some Kahr owners have got together a put a lube diagram online that has been posted on numerous online forums. In case there are any Kahr owners here that don't have it, here it is:





    One helpful thing that it points out is that a Q-Tip can be used to facilitate lubricating a pistol. It actually works out quite well to use.

    .

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  3. #2
    Member Array muddy's Avatar
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    Really people need a guide to figure out where to lube a pistol? I would hate to see the cloth fiber stuck to my Kahr if I coated it like the guide indicates. I have enough trouble with the dust bunnies.

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    Member Array mynameisFred's Avatar
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    Good Chart.

    Kahr's like the lube.

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    Senior Member Array mr surveyor's Avatar
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    I think the chart is somewhere between "o.k." and "overkill". Some folks don't understand the term "light coat", and like muddy suggested, the pistol is gonna fill up with dust bunnies or extra fouling when over lubed. The chart also fails to mention the use of a high pressure shot of a non-chlorinated cleaner like Gun Blaster or brake cleaner (through the application straw) into the clean out hole for the striker channel... and absolutely no lube applied into the striker channel.

    I've always had the idea that the use of the minimum amount of lube for proper function (or to maintain finish) is the maximum amount to apply. Any more than that is just a goo magnet.

    just my opinion

    surv

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    I dunk mine in a bucket of Mobil-One oil, hang it to let the residue drip off, and then give it a good wipedown.
    Retired USAF E-8. Remember: You're being watched!
    Paranoia strikes deep, into your heart it will creep. It starts when you're always afraid... "For What It's Worth" Buffalo Springfield

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    You didn't go for that, did you?
    Retired USAF E-8. Remember: You're being watched!
    Paranoia strikes deep, into your heart it will creep. It starts when you're always afraid... "For What It's Worth" Buffalo Springfield

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    Senior Member Array mr surveyor's Avatar
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    yes

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    Whats wrong with Mobil 1?? $7 quart lasts you for the rest of your life :)

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    jyo
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    Well, at this time, I own three Kahrs---two CW9s and one P45---I pretty have been lubing (lightly) the very same areas as on your chart---very much like most semi-autos---all three run 100%. I use either Breakfree CLP or FP10 lube (whichever bottle happens to be near where I am working) with no complaints so far.

  11. #10
    Distinguished Member Array LanceORYGUN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr surveyor View Post
    Some folks don't understand the term "light coat", and like muddy suggested, the pistol is gonna fill up with dust bunnies or extra fouling when over lubed.
    Well, but the problem is that is basically all the advice that the Kahr manual provides. It says that "ALL PARTS" need to be lightly lubricated. It gives no guidance at all regarding where specifically to lube. If one was to LITERALLY follow their instructions, you would lube the entire handgun.

    Here is all the Kahr Manual says about the subject of cleaning and lubrication:

    "Before the initial shooting of the new KAHR pistol, the pistol should be disassembled following the instructions in this manual and cleaned with a commercial gun cleaning solvent. After each shooting session, the cleaning process should be repeated to remove firing residue from the inside and outside of the Barrel, Slide, Frame, and Magazine.

    Once cleaned, all parts should be lightly lubricated with a commercial gun lubricant. Follow the solvent and lubricant manufacturer's instructions."

    .

  12. #11
    Senior Member Array mr surveyor's Avatar
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    Lance, I wasn't taking a shot at you, or at the chart for that matter. I am an active member at KarTalk also, and stay pretty well in tune with the recommended procedures there. My problem is with the term "lightly lubed".... as opposed to what... dunking in the bucket of Mobil 1?.

    I have seen guns at the range that had enough oil on them that the users had to wipe off the grips to control the handgun, and the first few rounds out of them showed enough smoke, it's a wonder that the barrel didn't over pressure from the lube. The term "lightly lubed" to me means taking that last patch that went through the clean barrel with a couple of drops of CLP (just prior to dry patching the rest of the lube out of the barrel), and using it to wipe the exterior surface of the barrel, barrel lug, and inside of the cleaned slide. If it looks like any sign of oil residue on any of the surfaces, it gets wiped off. The striker/strikere channel get cleaned out frequently with GunBlaster to make certain there is no powder residue, brass shavings or other residue. I'm sure it doesnt hurt to put that tiny drop of oil on the striker spring, if it is cleaned often enough to insure it isn't attracting a build-up of gunk. The striker isn't a place I want a malfunction. The rails and lock pin get a small dab of lube to insure smooth operation, but not enough to attract dust bunny goo balls from several days of IWB carry.

    Anyway, didn't intend to sound insulting, and I know everyone has a different definition of terms such as "lightly lubed", "tiny drop", etc. I hope you understand where I'm coming from here.


    surv

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    RKM
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    I lube mine, similar to my Glock. BUT, I use a bit more oil. It functions 100% all the time.

    I hate field stripping my Kahr. The recoil spring on the Mk40 is a little monster.

  14. #13
    Distinguished Member Array LanceORYGUN's Avatar
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    Surveyor:

    All of the criticism in my previous post was directed at the Kahr manual, which I believe to be deficient on this subject. I apologize that you took my remarks to somehow be referring to anything that you said.

    My only reason for even mentioning your post was to show that the Kahr manual also specified a light lubrication, just as you did. Nothing that you said bothered me in any way at all.

    I don't know how such a misunderstanding took place, but please believe me that nothing in my post is in any way directed at you.

    My complaint is 100% with the lack of guidance on cleaning and lubrication in the Kahr manual.

    .

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    Distinguished Member Array ripley16's Avatar
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    The Kahr is lubed no differently than any other pistol. The chart is a great visual aide for the novice. Sigarms produced an excellent series of videos to help educate "How to" maintain Sigs, which also apply to any pistol. In addition there are literally thousands of homemade video clips available to learn gun care. There are some really well made instructionals on the two main Kahr Forums.

    Most manuals I have follow the Kahr generalities in instruction as well. "If it's metal and moves, lube it" seems to be the rule of thumb. I owned Kahrs before I ever saw the chart, and it only validated what most gun owners already know. The chart is much more help than hindrance. Common sense.

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    Senior Member Array crue2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr surveyor View Post
    I think the chart is somewhere between "o.k." and "overkill". Some folks don't understand the term "light coat", and like muddy suggested, the pistol is gonna fill up with dust bunnies or extra fouling when over lubed. The chart also fails to mention the use of a high pressure shot of a non-chlorinated cleaner like Gun Blaster or brake cleaner (through the application straw) into the clean out hole for the striker channel... and absolutely no lube applied into the striker channel.

    I've always had the idea that the use of the minimum amount of lube for proper function (or to maintain finish) is the maximum amount to apply. Any more than that is just a goo magnet.

    just my opinion

    surv
    where exactly is the "striker channel clean out hole" on a kahr cw9

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