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Ruger SP101

10K views 24 replies 14 participants last post by  RETSUPT99 
#1 ·
I'm seriously considering a trigger and/or spring job on my SP101. The DA pull is awfully heavy. Should I or no?
 
#4 ·
I put the 10# Wolff main hammer spring in mine and left the factory trigger return spring in it. Feels great and I haven't had any issues of any kind. Goes "BANG" very loudly every time I pull the now much improved trigger.
 
#8 ·
I also used the Wolf spring kit. Simple to do, just a basic take down. I ended up leaving the trigger spring stock because the hammer spring gave me the pull I wanted. If you get the spring kit, just experiment with the different spring weights and see what you like best and then make sure you have no function issues (like lite strikes).
 
#12 ·
I changed the hammer spring as well. I also slightly polished a few components and the trigger is smooth as silk. You can check out the ruger forum and see if the IBOK's are available for the SP101. It's a simple guide written by a retired Ruger gunsmith. If you can find one, grab it asap.
 
#16 ·
I highly recommend the Wolff RP spring kit upgrade. I also recommend doing the IBOK trigger job that others have mentioned. My SP-101 has had the whole enchilada and the trigger is now at 2.5lbs SA and 5lbs DA. A trigger this light is not for everyone, but an IBOK trigger job allows you to tweak the trigger to whatever weight feels right to you.

My highly reworked SP-101:
 
#18 ·
If your mainspring strut is rough, you will still have a gritty trigger pull. Ditto for the surfaces on the hammer and trigger that move against each other. My only SP101s with lighter springs are the ones worked over by Jack Weigand when he was still doing custom work. The rest of my SP101s were cherry-picked, with patience, at dealers, and I probably wouldn't install lighter springs in them if someone gave me the springs as gifts. I have handled revolvers with such light springs inside them that the trigger return was notably sluggish.

In my hands, with the high grip I use, I have so much mechanical advantage to work the trigger, I just don't need light springs, thus far, even with some amount of weakness caused by nerve impingement. I find the smartly-fast trigger return to be comforting when shooting fast.

Do be SURE to test-fire with your carry loads to make sure the primers will go off EVERY time. I did install lighter springs in my first GP100, an early 1990's gun, and had some failures to ignite magnum primers. I re-installed the factory mainspring, pronto, and reliability returned. This is my only workin' Ruger revolver thus far I have felt needed smoothing of the internal parts, beyond a bit of dry-firing, and I performed the task myself. (I have another GP100, a limited-run 5" gun, that I purchased without cherry-picking, as it was the only one I could find of that edition; I think it may need some attention to its internal parts, if/when it becomes a workin' gun.)
 
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