What do you use to clean your pistol?

This is a discussion on What do you use to clean your pistol? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Thank you floridaguy911 for the post. I just returned form my first trip to the range yesterday (XD sub / 300 rnds) and had the ...

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Thread: What do you use to clean your pistol?

  1. #46
    Ex Member Array HOLYROLLER's Avatar
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    Thank you floridaguy911 for the post. I just returned form my first trip to the range yesterday (XD sub / 300 rnds) and had the same questions but didnt have the guts to ask myself.

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  3. #47
    Senior Member Array mech1369dlw's Avatar
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    I use a mixture of automatic tranny fluid, mineral spirits, acetone, and sea foam. The gun gets field stripped, placed in a pan to soak for a little bit. After a while, the barrel bets brushed thru, everything gets an old tooth brush, then blowed out with 25 psi of air. Q-tips, pipe cleaners, rags. I have a "gun rag" that has just enough oil on it over the years that I use to wipe the parts and put just a light film on all metal parts. Assembly, then ready for next time I have to use it.
    A person is justified in the use of deadly force, if such person reasonably believes deadly force is necessary to prevent imminent death or great bodily harm to such person or a third person.

  4. #48
    Member Array Obiwan's Avatar
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    Hoppes semi auto cleaner (I like it better than #9 even though I love the smell of #9). For lube I used Poly ProTec until I ran out. I guess that the company is out of business, because their website is up, but non responding. I've since switched to Militec 1 and like it.

  5. #49
    VIP Member Array KenpoTex's Avatar
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    I use brake-cleaner...you can buy a big can from wal-mart or your auto-parts store of choice for about $1.50.
    I like it because it breaks up powder residue and de-greases. It also evaporates quickly leaving you with nothing to wipe away. I litterally flush the weapon to wash the fouling away, wipe things down with a rag or paper-towel, and then lube with product of choice. I use white Lithium grease on the action b/c it doesn't burn off when the weapon is hot like oil does.
    "Being a predator isn't always comfortable but the only other option is to be prey. That is not an acceptable option." ~Phil Messina

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  6. #50
    Ex Member Array Ryan H's Avatar
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    Before I go into detail, I'll say that the main ingredient in #9 is kerosene. That being said:

    If I've shot over 300 rounds (the typical reccomended cleaning point for most firearms), I strip the weapon to it's main compnents and soak them in kerosene or diesel fuel. I put the containers out in the Florida sun for a few hours and they get nice and hot to the touch. I then take a stiff plastic brush to the big stuff (slide rails, recievers, mag wells, etc) and a tooth brush to the smaller and more sensitive things (breech face and extractors, action assemblies, etc). I also run a brush (one way only!) through the bores at this time, and brush the outside of the barrels as well (feed ramp area, locking lug area, etc). They then go back into the containers and soak again.

    When they come out, I use quality paper towels (cheap ones leave lots of dust/lint) and wipe out every crevice I can get at. If it is a plastic part, it then gets dish soap and very hot water jetted through it at high pressure. I do this by removing the face of the shower head, which throws a VERY hard stream of water across the tub. Give this a try if the face of your shower head unscrews! After they've been washed off, I towel dry the parts and blow them off with the hair dryer on high heat to get any remaining water out.

    If the parts are metal, I hose them off with non chlorinated brake parts cleaner or gun scrubber, whatever is laying around. If I'm out of that, I'll use rubbing alcohol. I make sure to get into the firing pin area and under the extractor really good. I then towel dry and blow dry the parts as described with the plastic.

    Next comes the bore. I run patches of Break-Free CLP through the bores since they have been soaked and brushed prior. I run the patches until they come out 100% clean. If it is a rifle, I then repeat this process after letting copper solvent foam set in. I only do the copper solvent after the barrel has been cleaned fully, just so I can see how much copper has been removed. The barrel gets a very light coat of synthetic wheel bearing grease (and I mean VERY light) on the outside and it is set aside.

    The now dry parts are ready to be lubed. I start by getting a small amount of wheel bearing grease, and lightening the viscosity with Break Free CLP. I mix it up really good and apply a thin coat to the slide rails at every contact point. The recoil spring and guide rod also get a thin film as well. I use a drop of Rem-Oil on lighter duty parts like the trigger springs, extractor, etc. I also put a drop of Rem-Oil on the striker since my detail cleaning process usually strips EVERYTHING of oil.

    I forgot to mention, my magazines are also cleaned in this manner as well. Before they are reassembled, I put a drop of Rem-Oil on the follower, rub it all over and then wipe the excess onto the spring.

    If I've fired less than 300 rounds, I don't go as far into detail. Instead I soak a rag in rubbing alcohol, wipe the parts down, clean the bore, re-oil and put it back together.

    I do however, do the detailed cleaning after every 300 rounds, even if regular cleaning has been performed in between shootings. Kind of like changing your oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first kinda thing. :)

    As for the methods of the other posters in this threads, I really enjoyed reading all of these and I may alter my methods a bit! The dishwasher idea sounds outstanding for my Mossberg! I don't know that I'd attempt it with my more expensive arms though as the method I have now is pretty meticulous anyway.

  7. #51
    Member Array Npete7381's Avatar
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    For cleaning I use Hoppes #9, and to lubricate I use CLP in a squeeze bottle with the little straw get it where I want it. Once everything is back together I use one of those silicone impregnated gun/reel cloths to clean up the fingerprints and smudges before I put it away.

  8. #52
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    I am chuckling here because I pretty much follow Lima's procedure almost to the letter including putting in a movie to watch while I clean.

    The products I pretty much use exclusively are Hoppes #9 and Breakfree.

    Occasionally I'll try something else out that people talk about, and have some various lubes, cleaners and new fangled high tech gun greases, but I've been using Breakfree since I was indoctrinated by Uncle Sam's Misguided Children in 1981 and always seem to end up back with Hoppes #9 & Breakfree.

    Some of the tools I use besides the bore brush, cleaning patch w/ jig & toothbrush are Q-Tips (Q-Tips are totally indispensable).

    I have a set of dental pics to wrap a cleaning patch around and get into narrow slide rails and small holes or similar hard to reach places. (They don't break like toothpics and matches.)

    I use one of those fairly stiff nylon bristle Auto Parts brush that has the long plastic handle to brush dirt, lint and light debris out of the action, off the frame and out of the slide. (I use that brush dry, without oil or solvents just to get dry loose crud out of areas)

    I have some 12 or 14 inch pipe cleaners I got from cheaper than dirt to clean the gas tubes on my AR-15 & FAL that I got from www.cheaperthandirt.com.

    I have a pretty decent Chapman Gunsmith screwdriver & ratchet set for removing or tightening grip screws and screw bushings and whatever is needed, scope mounts and the like. Gunsmith screwdrivers have totally straight sides and not tapered like common use screwdrivers so they are less apt to pop out of the screw head and mar the finish on your gun if you are using some torque.

    I keep some "blue" loctite in my kit for those grip screws and scope mounts.

    If you have stainless steel revolvers, you need to get a lead remover cloth. Hoppes and Birchwood Casey makes them. If you've ever gotten that lead build up on the cylinder face baked on, inside of the top strap and forcing cone, you know what I mean. I have used dental pics very carefully, brass bore brushes and scrubed incessantly all to no avail. I got one of those "Lead Cloths" and tore off a piece and rubbed for about 2 minutes and the lead literally melted right off. I was stunned. For the first time in years, the cylinder face looks like it's brand new. (If you have blued weapons, just be very careful as you can take the bluing off with little effort)

    Some of my friends freak when they see my "gun cleaning kit" because I use an old "Plano 747" tackle box. That used to be the biggest tackle box that Plano made and was commonly used as "The Drug Box" for EMS services for decades across the country before the cordura nylon bags came into vogue. As a matter of fact, mine is a retired EMS drug box. It really has to be that big since now days I have somewhere in the neighborhood of 28-30 firearms so it comes in handy for supplies, spare parts, screws and tools.
    Last edited by Bark'n; May 24th, 2007 at 08:25 AM.
    -Bark'n
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    "The gun is the great equalizer... For it is the gun, that allows the meek to repel the monsters; Whom are bigger, stronger and without conscience, prey on those who without one, would surely perish."

  9. #53
    Senior Member Array zero's Avatar
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    anyone use that Outers Nitro solvent gun cleaner?

  10. #54
    Senior Member Array incredipete's Avatar
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    I use the brite-bore stuff from Remington, and I also use their oil for lubrication. I think it's called Rem-Oil or something creative like that.
    Gun Control means never having to say "I missed you."

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  11. #55
    Senior Member Array Shadowsbane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bud White View Post
    ya know you really can clean them in a dishwasher if you use it on hi temp scrub and heated dry the temp will be over 100 degrees and it will dry super fast oil up and go
    One thing to watch out for though is that most dishwasher soaps are real heavy on the chlorine. But I guess it gets rinsed off pretty fast too.
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  12. #56
    Ex Member Array Ryan H's Avatar
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    I actually tried this on my Mossberg last night for giggles. All of the steel parts rusted.. don't think I'll do that again!

  13. #57
    Member Array jbailey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvhoss View Post
    About 4 yrs. ago, I switched to Kroil for 90% of my gun cleaning and have been extremely pleased.
    +1 on the Kroil !! I have been using a mixture of 3/4 General Motors Top Engine cleaner #1050002 and 1/4 Kroil for my rifles and pistols for years as well. This mixture is supposed to be as effective as Shooter's Choice, for a lot less $ and seems to easily remove most deposits left when using jacketed bullets.

    Lead deposits are another story - there is a lead removing cloth that you can cut into patches for use in the barrel, or use to remove exterior lead deposits (cylinder faces etc.). The cloth works OK for light barrel deposits, but I usually use some fine bronze wool wrapped around an old bore brush saturated with the Top Cleaner/Kroil mixture. This is about the quickest I've ever been able to to clean a lead fouled barrel.

    I still use Hoppe's #9 as well, have used it since I was a kid. LOVE the aroma!! Great for after shave too!

    Jim

  14. #58
    VIP Member Array aus71383's Avatar
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    I use Hoppe's No. 9 Bore Solvent to get rid of carbon/powder fouling and to help scrub out leading and copper fouling. I soak a patch, run it through the bore a few times, then dip my brush in the little bottle (copper bristle brush) and run it through the bore several times. Then I use a dry patch to swab the bore and have a look. If I'm happy with how shiny and clean it is, and there is nothing stuck in my grooves, I run the dry patch through a few times - might grab a new patch if I feel its neccessary. For the rest of the gun I also use Hoppe's No. 9 and an AP brush. I dip the brush and scrub everything all over to get the fouling off. When I'm satisfied, I wipe everything down with a rag and put a light coat (invisible) of oil on it. I put a drop of oil on each friction point (depending on the gun).

    At work it seems all we're issued is CLP - and since it does everything it stands to reason it doesn't do anything very well. I bring along my Hoppe's. The other guys slave away scrubbing and scrubbing at their caked on carbon deposits.

  15. #59
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    I usually use some fine bronze wool
    Jim - where in heck do you obtain that - I need some !!!!
    Chris - P95
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    is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."


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  16. #60
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    Ditto for what Chris said...

    I need a source for "Bronze Wool"

    Jim.... come back, Come back Jim

    or was that Shane. LOL
    -Bark'n
    Semper Fi


    "The gun is the great equalizer... For it is the gun, that allows the meek to repel the monsters; Whom are bigger, stronger and without conscience, prey on those who without one, would surely perish."

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