SIG P239 9MM any break in tips on new pistol

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Thread: SIG P239 9MM any break in tips on new pistol

  1. #1
    Member Array pat701's Avatar
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    SIG P239 9MM any break in tips on new pistol

    Are there any break in tips or special care tips for a new Sig P239 in 9MM?

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  3. #2
    Member Array Crowbait's Avatar
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    It should tell you in the owners manual. Most manufacturers say somewhere around 200-250 rounds for break in, so if you have any minor failures (FTF,FTE,etc) during this time frame I wouldn't worry about it. If it doesn't specifically say in the manual then don't be afraid to call Sig CS. I would also disassemble and clean and lube the weapon prior to the first range outing (hint: run it wet). Safe shooting.

    -Russell
    A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government. --George Washington

  4. #3
    Member Array roadrash's Avatar
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    I run my Sig 239 9mm with a mixture of a little grease and CLP on the rails.Mine has a couple thousand rds through it,and has been flawless since round 1.

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    Distinguished Member Array matthew03's Avatar
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    The Sig line of pistols likes to run wet; grease on the rails will add much to protect the aluminum frame from the stainless slide eating into it. Grease the exterior of the barrel as well with a thin coating. Sig's are durable and reliable, but run much better wet. If you are carrying your P239 IWB put a coat of wax on the grip screws as they can rust quickly. Clean the magazines both externally and internally as the preservative they ship in can cause failures.

    My Sig's have run 100% since day one and didn't require a break in other than to run rounds downrange to ensure they were functioning.

  6. #5
    Member Array nwbackpacker's Avatar
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    Take the slide off, inspect and optionally clean the inside of the barrel, grease the outside of the barrel and the recoil rod/spring, re-grease the frame (which will re-grease the slide). Grease the underside of the decocking and take down levers. Manually run the slide back and forth a dozen or so times, clean up all the leaking grease from your initial over exuberant greasing, and go and shoot 100 rounds of FMJ and some of your desired defense loads. Inspect weapon and clean it again. You're done.

    They really don't require break-in like a tight little Kahr or a tight 1911 might do. Just be wary of using thin oils on the slide. IMO, that's not going to protect the slide enough and you'll find the oil will migrate to somewhere where it doesn't need to be. You probably discovered a little packet of Mill-Comm TW25B grease in the box. Go buy a syringe of that stuff - it's awesome.

    I'm about 1300 rounds into my newish P226 9mm. Zero failures of any kind - it's almost boring. I like to think that it's partially because I clean after every outing and use good grease but I know I'm likely cleaning it way before I really NEED to. Still, this is my HD weapon and I'm not taking any chances.

    Have fun with the little Sig (that weights 2 pounds). ;)

  7. #6
    Senior Member Array TonyDTrigger's Avatar
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    I had one and it did not need any breaking in. What it did need was a good cleaning and oiling, which I found the hard way when I 1st took to the range. After that it was 100% reliable.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Array itschuck's Avatar
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    Tha'ts all I did to my 239 in 40..clean it and re-lube it..shoot away. Just to see what would happen I didn't clean it for close to 500 rounds..never a hiccup.
    Current collection: Too many according to the wife...

  9. #8
    Ex Member Array TheDetailer's Avatar
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    I keep seeing everybody strongly recommending grease on the SIG rails... I just recently obtained a P6, marked 1982 and I very seriously doubt that it was ever regularly lived with a grease product. It seems to have seen a lot of use, but there is only one little spot on the frame where the anodized coating has worn. I have since had the frame re-anodized and the slide Cerakoted and it has approximately 1k rounds through it since the re-finish. The only lube I have used is MPro 7 LPX. Absolutely now unusual wear and it is smooth as butter. I will be switching to Gunzilla as soon as it arrives, hopefully today. I will update.

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

  10. #9
    VIP Member Array pogo2's Avatar
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    Consider grip replacement

    I would agree with the cleaning and lubrication advice offered by previous posters for your P239. Additionally, I recommend you consider replacing the original grips (either plastic or rubber) with checkered aluminum grips from Hogue, which aid concealment of the gun by having a very thin profile, and aid handling of the gun by offering sharp checkering which adheres to your hand very tightly. I find it much easier to gain a firm grip and draw this gun from the holster using these grips.

    Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the Peoples' Liberty's Teeth." - George Washington

  11. #10
    Member Array MLittle's Avatar
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    I'd also replace the stock grips, but would NOT recommend the Hogue aluminum grips. I got those for my P220 and they have a tendency to scratch. The scratch will remove the black annodizing. Instead, I highly recommend the Hogue G10 grips. They don't scratch, loose color, or conduct hot/cold.

  12. #11
    Distinguished Member Array matthew03's Avatar
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    Agreed Hogue G-10's rock. Going by looks alone you will be able to see a slight difference in shape and size, but it's a world of difference in feel.

    DSC00752.jpg

  13. #12
    Member Array Sigsi Paige's Avatar
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    Congratulations on the Sig - it's a sweet shooter!

    Regardless of what you decide to do - nothing will replace practice.

    Enjoy it!
    ~ Sigsi Paige

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