Kimber 1911 Question ( Tactical Ultra II ) ....

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    Member Array BarettaM9's Avatar
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    Kimber 1911 Question ( Tactical Ultra II ) ....

    Kimber America | Tactical Ultra II

    I love this little Gun ... Just picked it up.

    Question: What aftermarket mods do I need to make this Gun better?

    Thanks in Advance.

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  3. #2
    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarettaM9 View Post
    Kimber America | Tactical Ultra II

    I love this little Gun ... Just picked it up.

    Question: What aftermarket mods do I need to make this Gun better?

    Thanks in Advance.
    I'd work on user familiarity via 1500-3000 rds of practice. Just get more mags. The gun as equipped provided Kimber did their part is good to go. About the only thing I'd add are some G10 grip panels from VZGrips.com

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    VIP Member Array pogo2's Avatar
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    Suggestions...

    When I got my Kimber Pro CDP I made a few small modifications to enhance it somewhat for carry. I wanted it to be thinner to conceal better, so I installed thin grip panels (McCormick) and turned the ambi safety into a single side grip safety with an Ed Brown part. I also bought some Wilson magazines, which I trust more than Kimber magazines. Since the mainspring housing was plastic, I bought a black steel mainspring housing to replace it.

    Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the Peoples' Liberty's Teeth." - George Washington

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    VIP Member Array smolck's Avatar
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    Most guys on the Kimber forum I am a part of recommend a spring change to wolfe springs around 300 rounds. Lots of guys say the Kimber mags suck but my gun has performed flawlessly with them.

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    The Concealed Carry Lifestyle | | The Truth About GunsThe Truth About Guns

    The Guy in Link above mentions some Mods .... ?

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    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarettaM9 View Post
    the guy in the link also doesn't know what it and isn't a plastic mainspring housing.





    Not plastic, it's a two piece metal extended mag well...

    Those same guys also ran some commentary on how 3" 1911s are garbage.

    Run the gun, find out if anything needs changing. I don't know why you dropped the coin for a "Tactical Ultra blah blah blah"[/URL] just to ditch the features (extended mag well, ambi safety, premium woods) that make it a "Tactical Ultra blah blah blah"

    If you want to ditch all the added features, you should have just gotten a regular Ultra Carry and put on night sights. That's basically what they did, and it only cost them

    My Total: $1525.75
    The Wilson Combat “Ultralight Carry Compact”: $3250.00
    That's $1525.75 for what is now basically an improved copy of their base gun offering and it's still got a crappy finish and a 1 year warranty.

    That right there is a lesson in how NOT to shop. You don't buy one of their custom shop guns to rebuild it, you buy one of their base guns to rebuild it.

    Ultra Carry II MSRP: $896.00
    Tactical Ultra II MSRP: $1,285.00

    Cost difference based on materials they axed with the exception of night sights and checkering.

    They also added the one control that CAN hang during the draw stroke, the extended slide stop.
    To prevent my Ultra from snagging my clothing I replaced the factory stock ambidextrous thumb safety with a Wilson Combat “Tactical Lever” thumb safety. It’s much smoother and smaller than Kimber’s thumb safeties. I also replaced the stock slide release with Wilson’s extended slide release, allowing me to fully manipulate all my carry pistol’s “controls” without breaking my grip.
    And those grip screw with the goofy swirl, I bet those were a needed modification too.


    Edited to add:

    These are some good ones from that article too...

    My goal in replacing the parts shown above: create a carry weapon that’s both lightweight and concealable. I started by throwing out the factory stock magazine with it’s large plastic base.
    The plastic base is removable, the reason the base is there is for use with the mag well...which they removed therefore the stock mag would have been fine, provided it worked well with the gun.
    To finish off my customizations I chose a set of VZ Grips’ “Elite Tactical Carry” grips. Their unique design incorporates an extremely grippy surface where your fingers rest—whilst providing a smooth surface to prevent your clothing from snagging when carrying concealed.

    I have VZs on almost all my 1911s, actually I do have them on all but one (1944 USGI Ithaca M1911A1) and the VZ ETCs are not going to snag any better or worse than those stock Kimber grips, and the majority of the surface area of the ETCs are grippy. If the wood was likekly to snag, the VZs would probably be MORE likely to snag as they are not as smooth a texture as most wood grips I've had. The grippy portion of the ETCs (for your fingers) are exposed to clothing...because...you're not gripping the gun while it's in your holster.


    Now don't get me wrong, I'm with 'em on the grips as I also favor G10, and more mags of good quality is always a must, but some of what they did and the reasons they state for doing them is backasswards.

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    Member Array BarettaM9's Avatar
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    BIG Thanks JD.

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    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarettaM9 View Post
    BIG Thanks JD.

    You're welcome.


    Some mods make sense, if you gun did happen to have a plastic main spring housing I can understand replacing it as I totally mangled one. But if you don't mess with it; it would be fine.

    I understand the recoil spring changes for Kimbers but that's typically an issue with 4" guns, the 3" springs are usually OK and it's a PAIN IN THE REAR to mess around with changing the dual recoils springs of the Ultras.

    I understand buying different mags, but if the stock mag works there's no reason to get rid of it, but I would say that the Wilsons and Cobra Mags ARE better made mags.

    The grips... my hands sweat...a lot. The G10 gives me a better grip under most if not all conditions but there are plenty of grip options that cost less than $65....(another issue with the article is that they don't include shipping costs of the parts ordered to sum their upgrades)

    The ambi safety... like them and leave them intact if I buy a gun with one. If I buy a gun without one, I leave it alone too.


    There have been some issues with some Kimber small parts, some replace a lot of small parts right off the bat with tool steel parts...I would not do that unless you had some parts fail.

    You just got the gun, give it a good cleaning, get some mags, go through the recommended 500rd break in and go from there making changes that YOU think need to be made off the results of YOU shooting the gun.

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    Great insite. Thank again JD.

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    Distinguished Member Array grouse's Avatar
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    On my Kimber Pro Raptor, my hammer broke in half at 3000 rounds or so, must have been a MIM part. Also the anbi saftey kept comming unlocked ( I use a IWB holster). So I replaced my hammer, saftey, (single sided) slide stop,extractor & all the fire control parts with Ed Brown Hardcoreparts. I also added a Ed Brown Bobtail & G10 VZ grips. Wolff springs has a replacement recoil spring just for the 4 inch Kimbers, so I'm runniing one of those too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grouse View Post
    On my Kimber Pro Raptor, my hammer broke in half at 3000 rounds or so, must have been a MIM part. Also the anbi saftey kept comming unlocked ( I use a IWB holster). So I replaced my hammer, saftey, (single sided) slide stop,extractor & all the fire control parts with Ed Brown Hardcoreparts. I also added a Ed Brown Bobtail & G10 VZ grips. Wolff springs has a replacement recoil spring just for the 4 inch Kimbers, so I'm runniing one of those too.
    `yep.

    Regarding the safety, what kind of holster are/were you using?

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    Distinguished Member Array grouse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD View Post
    `yep.

    Regarding the safety, what kind of holster are/were you using?
    Crossbreed. I think the lever was just to big & stuck out to far. However I carry my Browning Hi Power with ambis in the same type of holster (Galco King Tuck) in the same 4 '0 clock postion and the safteys have never unlocked. Therefore I believe the size & shape of the Kimber ambi saftey was some how to blame for the unnoticed & unwanted unlocking of the saftey.
    This is a situation where the 1911's grip saftey was of great comfort.
    P.S Since I changed my Kimber saftey to a single sided saftey the saftey has not unlocked in my Crossbreed. Never had any issues with cond. one with any holster with my Colt series 70 & series 80 (standard Colt thumb saftey.)

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    Senior Member Array theskunk's Avatar
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    The most important thing you can buy are a couple of good magazines ...... the stock kimber are junk ..... the mag followers can overide the slide lock, and jam up 'big time' ........... I hear Wilson Combat makes a good mag with a good follower

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    Member Array BarettaM9's Avatar
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    Thanks again everyone ....

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    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by grouse View Post
    Crossbreed. I think the lever was just to big & stuck out to far. However I carry my Browning Hi Power with ambis in the same type of holster (Galco King Tuck) in the same 4 '0 clock postion and the safteys have never unlocked. Therefore I believe the size & shape of the Kimber ambi saftey was some how to blame for the unnoticed & unwanted unlocking of the saftey.
    This is a situation where the 1911's grip saftey was of great comfort.
    P.S Since I changed my Kimber saftey to a single sided saftey the saftey has not unlocked in my Crossbreed. Never had any issues with cond. one with any holster with my Colt series 70 & series 80 (standard Colt thumb saftey.)

    If the holster is molded around the safety lever, in theory the ambi side won't budge. I've verified this with my VMII and a ambi-equipped 1911 that happens to use a Kimber ambi safety and it takes a good amount of force to make the lever move.

    Your mileage may vary depending on holster and that is something to consider when carrying a 1911. As for the Hi Power, that's a different animal entirely. Even 1911 to 1911 can differ in ease of movement of the thumb safety.

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