This is a discussion on What's the correct revolver cylinder closing procedure? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Any revolver fired enough is going to develop a cylinder line so I don't worry about it....
Any revolver fired enough is going to develop a cylinder line so I don't worry about it.
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It's not good practice to sling shut a cylinder. It may not be readily noticeable, but it can loosen the crane, and cause timing issues.
The correct way to shut the cylinder is simply to press it into the frame until it locks, and turn the cylinder until it locks in place.
The scoring ring will happen regardless.
Ignorance is a long way from stupid, but left unchecked, can get there real fast.
I was always under the impression that with a perfectly tuned revolver the cylinder stop will not make contact with the cylinder until properly indexed; therefore, no drag marks. Having said that, I've seen darn few that didn't have them. I always attributed this to less hand fitting.
A cylinder line is part of the deal with a "usin'" revolver and there's no avoiding it. Here's a 41 year old revolver with perhaps 60K rounds through it to date. Today's been nice so I've been to the range to play with a couple of rifles and also put a quick box of ammo through this revolver. Just about to clean everything up.
Yep, a drag mark.
There's been no slinging it shut over the years though except in its early days when an occasional nitwit friend tried it. They were quickly schooled.
Thumb pressure and a quick index become second nature.
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With revolver held cupped in left hand, cylinder held between thumb and middle and ring fingers (fingers are through frame window), the cylinder is "rolled" back into the frame and rotated to lock. YMMV.
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I never thought twice about it. Had my Smith on me today so I had to pull it out and try it to see what I do. I just close it and rotate the wheel.
1) Pull hammer back, with thumb, to second notch
2) Open loading gate
3) Insert first cartridge (45LC of course)
4) Rotate past first open cylinder chamber
5) Load next cartridge
6) Rotate cylinder to next open chamber
7) Load next cartridge
Repeat steps 6 & 7 twice more
8) Close loading gate
9) With revolver pointed in safe direction, place thumb firmly on hammer, squeeze trigger, pull hammer back fully, and lower hammer to first notch.
Now you are ready to go.
See how easy it is!!!!
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Push shut and rotate with thumb. The drag line is a part of modern double action revolver design and has absolutely nothing to do with timing or fitting.
The only way to minimize that turn line on the revolver cylinder is to mirror polish the top of the arc on the face of the cylinder stop and to barely radius those edges but, that needs to be done ever so carefully.
The best and safest way for an amateur to do that is to just strop that contact surface on a bit of leather charged with fine red jewelers rouge. It takes longer doing it that way but, at least you won't remove any critical amount of metal.
Really...I wouldn't worry about it though. It's an honest and expected wear mark.
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It ain't a revolver unless it has a cylinder line.......
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You've seen the consensus: press it closed and index to click.
Given the ruggedness of most revolvers, you probably can "flip-and-click" and be ready to go. In an emergency reload situation, well, watch Mas Ayoob here: 037 Massad Ayoob Demonstrates how to Reload the Revolver with the Bianchi "Speed Strip" - YouTube
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Thumb push/thumb turn...pretty simple.
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