What's the correct revolver cylinder closing procedure? - Page 3

What's the correct revolver cylinder closing procedure?

This is a discussion on What's the correct revolver cylinder closing procedure? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Originally Posted by soIcouldSee Assuming there is one. I should note I'm referring specifically to the S&W 642/442 J-Frames, although I'm sure any procedure would ...

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Thread: What's the correct revolver cylinder closing procedure?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by soIcouldSee View Post
    Assuming there is one. I should note I'm referring specifically to the S&W 642/442 J-Frames, although I'm sure any procedure would apply to most revolvers.

    I'm wondering if the cylinder pockets/grooves should be lined up with the bolt as close as possible when closing the cylinder to minimize or prevent turn line? Also, after the cylinder is latched closed, should it then be manually rotated until the bolt fits into the pocket?
    Nothing is going to minimize the turn line, short of never shooting it. It's just the nature of a revolver.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by archer51 View Post
    Nothing is going to minimize the turn line, short of never shooting it. It's just the nature of a revolver.
    Yep. When you fire in double action, the cylinder stop is engaged against the flat part of the notch in the cylinder. When you pull back on the trigger, the cylinder stop recedes just enough to let the cylinder rotate, and then pops back up rubs against the revolver cylinder wall and falls into the next cylinder notch just before the hammer is released. That turn ring is the result of the cylinder stop rubbing against the cylinder. Similar for SA.

    The closing of the revolver is not the main cause of the turn line; instead, the normal operation results in the turn line.

    I used to think of revolvers as simple guns and autoloaders as the Rube Goldbergs, but to me now it is the other way around. If the autoloader feeds, extracts and ejects reliably, chances are it will run fine. The parts needed to achieve these operations can be forgiving in tolerance relative to the parts for timing in a revolver. At least that's that way I see it, but some may disagree.

  3. #33
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    I push it shut with my left thumb on the crane and then index it, as long as you aren't slamming it or flicking it shut or indexing it really hard you should be alright.

  4. #34
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    I as well thought closing the cylinder by pressing on the crane was the proper way to perform it, then index the cylinder.

  5. #35
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    you should rotate the barrel 10 full revolutions to the right, then 5 to the left, then 3 to the right... make sure everything is then "perfectly" aligned with the barrel .... and then just push the cylinder in so it's closed and charge on.

    Personally... I do use the flick method at times, done it for 40 yrs, and never had an issue as a result of it. Typically, I push the wheel in , it locks in place and off we go.

    Don't 'over-think' a revolver.
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  6. #36
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    One question --- 467 different answers --- Ya gotta love this forum....
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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRM View Post
    Whatever you do don't use the "one-handed-sling-it-shut" method like you see on TV. That's where you hold the gun with the shooting hand an "flick it" to shut and close the cylinder. That will eventually bend the crane and mess up the alignment.

    Rotating the cylinder until it clicks and stops won't hurt anything and should be done.
    ^^^ This.

    Although if anyone insists on looking like a move star, I'm sure DRM will appreciate your business in repairing your revolver.
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  8. #38
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    Lightbulb

    The habit of flicking the cylinder shut gains you nothing in time, and costs you time because it's slower "shot to shot" on the clock.

    OK, so you've been doing it for 40 years. As a Tactical Trainer that tells me that you've been doing it wrong for 40 years. You have been reinforcing a bad habit. It's is nothing more a training scar at this point (IMO).
    wmhawth likes this.
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  9. #39
    Member Array Coltman 77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadguy View Post
    closing the cylinder with a chamber in line for lock up can help reduce turn lines....if that matters to ya.
    Yes it does matter to me. Thanks for the info.

    I have two revolvers a Colt Python and a Colt SAA both in new condition and both safe queens and I don't want to scar them.

    They are too valuable (to me) to flick my wrist, spin the cylinder and slam it shut.






    Thanks for your post.
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  10. #40
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    I push the cylinder closed and rotate it until it's lined up with the barrel. Not much to it, it is a revolver, there aren't too many options.
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  11. #41
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    Just close the darn thing and holster it or shoot something . We got to make a federal case out of closing a revolver.
    GunTrooper likes this.

  12. #42
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    I don't understand how to manipulate a crane on a Smith and Wesson.

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