Compact and sub-compact 1911's flawed inherently?

This is a discussion on Compact and sub-compact 1911's flawed inherently? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Originally Posted by QKShooter I also do not believe in "Space Gun" firearms for defensive street carry. That being said...there are certain minor things that ...

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Thread: Compact and sub-compact 1911's flawed inherently?

  1. #46
    VIP Member Array ExSoldier's Avatar
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    Tweaking 1911?

    Quote Originally Posted by QKShooter
    I also do not believe in "Space Gun" firearms for defensive street carry.
    That being said...there are certain minor things that can be done to any "box stock" 1911 pattern pistol to increase functional street reliability (in general) & maximize its reliability with hollow point defensive ammo.
    They would be as follows:
    Better fixed sights.
    Carefully tune the extractor.
    Install a tighter fitting Tool Steel Firing Pin Stop.
    Polish the frame feed ramp & the slide disconnector run.
    Throat the barrel & polish the top portion of the barrel chamber.
    Use a Wolff or equivalent highest quality recoil spring.
    Open up & relieve the ejection port.
    Lightly fine lap/polish the slide rails to the frame rails.
    Buy the best quality after-market magazines that you can afford.
    Install a heavy duty plunger tube that is properly staked in as well as LocTited.
    Those are some "common sense" mild modifications that can get a stock 1911 into perfect form.
    I could probably think of a few other small things but nothing major.
    I would agree with the sights (tritiums!) and plunger tube. The extractor is the most chronically finicky part of the 1911 system and so that is understandable, too. All the rest of it (especially anything having to do with throating, polishing or relieving) IMHO and that of my gunsmith is pretty superfluous in new 1911's. Those were upgrades of the 1960's and 70's. Manufacturers figured out what was going on and built the "upgrades" into factory stock to make them even more attractive for initial purchase. I mean they make sense if you're buying an older or used model.

    Magazines are always critical. IMHO Wilson is the best for a 1911.

    I wouldn't replace factory new springs until they wear out and then go with WOLFF all around. Exception: Your gun is set up for target loads and you want to go to combat loads or especially the reverse calling for a dramatically different spring power. Buying a used gun it only makes sense to replace all springs.

    I would never take a 1911 and start monkeying with fitting "rails." That's how those raceguns started messing up in matches and it would, IMHO, maybe get you killed on the street. Not me, not ever, on a carry piece.

    I think full length guiderods are useless on a carry gun too. The exception being a HAARTS recoil reducer. I've used it in a Glock M21 45ACP and it does indeed reduce felt recoil and muzzle jump by at least 50%
    Former Army Infantry Captain; 25 yrs as an NRA Certified Instructor; Avid practitioner of the martial art: KLIK-PAO.

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  3. #47
    Distinguished Member Array RSSZ's Avatar
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    Guess that I was misinformed. I did not know that shooting IDPA one could not modify the weapon in ANY WAY. --- I to do not believe in"race" guns. My defination of a "race" gun is one of them $4-7K guns that the pros(paid shooters)use to compete in IPSC with. I don't want one,can't afford one ,nor do I have ANY use for one. HOWEVER---- What I do own,compete with,collect,and use as a CCW, I want to be the best that is PRACTICAL. I can't afford to take my weapons to a master/pro/tuner/gunsmith. I don't mind "monkeying" with my weapons. I WILL do most of the things that are mentioned above. If I look back on my shooting career I can't remember very many FTC's,FTF's,or FTE's,that were the fault of the weapon after it had been"fiddled" with by me. I'm not a pro 1911 tuner.But I don't mind taking my time with a weapon to make it shoot as flawlessly,and reliability,as possible. BTW--I can't say as I believe in any piece of equipment on earth being 100% reliable,100% of the time. We all do our best to achieve this but do we ever get to that point after Murphy's Law,SNAFU's,BOHICA's,FIIGMO's,and the other little life's irratents get through working there charm on us. I will continue to feel secure with my little .45. So will the CCW's with the full grown .45's. I will continue to do whatever it takes to make my weapon as failure proof as possible. If at any time I feel that I have to switch weapons to get the degree of reliability that I need for CCW i will get a small revo and be done with it.--- THE ONLY EASY DAY WAS YESTERDAY!---

  4. #48
    Member Array MadDogDan's Avatar
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    I must be the luckiest person on earth. I have four compact 3" to 3.5" 1911,s and have never had one problem (FTE or FTF) with any of them. I have shot probably 35,000 rounds through the four guns collectively so they are not new by any means. Normal maintenance and recoil spring changes is all I do to them. My two full size 1911's are used at the range and competition and two of my Micro's or Ultra's are used for CCW.

    I have the luck of the Irish,
    MadDog
    WWJWD (What Would John Wayne Do)

  5. #49
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    Thumbs up ExSoldier

    It is not necessary to tighten the slide rails to the frame on a street defensive firearm. It helps though to lap/polish the rails to enable smoother slide travel.
    Remember...that whatever "slide return travel energy" is "eaten up" overcoming slide travel friction is not available to chamber the next round.
    I believe that proper barrel throating is necessary IF the defensive shooter intends to carry anything OTHER than "Hardball" ammo.
    Hollow points & various other bullet nose configurations need to be able to easily make it into the barrel chamber.
    That is sometimes impossible unless the barrel is properly throated.
    I think that every FLGR (Full Length Guide Rod) needs to go into the trash can.
    In my opinion they do absolutely nothing to improve either accuracy or function or..."save" the recoil spring from kinking. They are an answer to a problem that never existed.
    I am sold on Wolff Springs. They have been making the finest & best tempered gun springs for decades upon decades.
    If John Moses Browning had Wolff Gunsprings available to him at the time production was started on the 1911...he would have used them also.
    They are great & always flawless. As usual...just my opinion.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  6. #50
    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    Qk ya hit how i feel about 1911's i think the Flgr in my 1911 sc is gonna sit in a drawer incase i ever need to send it back to smith wesson

  7. #51
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    Sorry but don't understand how "slide travel friction" is REEEAL important. If ---- the ammo is of the correct shape (almost all 45 ACP ammo is)---- The magazine HAS been monkeyed with(which ALL mine have been)---- Just a little of the right lube in just the right places has been applied----The bbl has been throated and/or the bbl ramp looks like glass---- The chamber looks like glass---- You haven't just fired your 859th round without cleaning(remember we're talking CCW not some match.---- Your springs are even fairly new(remember this is CCW)and of the correct weight. ----You are using the proper grip/hold on your weapon. To me,and I'm not the brightest bulb in the box,these things are just plain ol' COMMON SENSE. These things EVEN make myTEENIE WENIE LITTLE TOY KIMBER SHOOT. Even with the 3" bbl. Imagine that!! The above is posted with the due respect of a fellow shooter/CCW'er.

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