Steel vs Stainless Steel
This is a discussion on Steel vs Stainless Steel within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Your comfort level when carrying any particular weapon is a very individual thing. I can handle carrying a steel framed 1911 and I'm roughly the ...
May 6th, 2007 11:57 PM
Your comfort level when carrying any particular weapon is a very individual thing. I can handle carrying a steel framed 1911 and I'm roughly the same size as you (similar weight just much shorter). I much prefer carrying my aluminum framed pistol however. The biggest thing you can do to make a carry rig comfortable is get a good, wide belt. The best I've found so far is the 1.75" wide Wilderness Belt. You'll quickly find that it's a never ending search however. Best of luck to you.
“Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it.” ~Pericles of Athens
Primary Carry - Colt Commander .45 in a Brommeland Max-Con V
May 7th, 2007 12:08 AM
Stainless is about 18% heavier than steel....
dwolstein - you are pretty much on the money except the last part. hardening magnetic stainless will significantly improve the corrosion resistance. Soft & magnetic, not so resistant.
"crappier grade" is not always the case though - there are many tradeoffs. Some alloys are made for high corrosion resistance (316), some resist high corrosion at incredible temps(440), some are easily welded(316L), some are easily machined(303), some are easily rolled into sheet(304), some can be made more hard (416)
For a firearm, stainless would primarily have to be easy to cast/forge/roll (depending on specific part & manufacturer's chosen technique).
May 7th, 2007 12:14 AM
May 7th, 2007 12:36 AM
QK, a firearm is a finished product. Stainless and passivated or oxided / carbonitrided.
You wouldn't want to leave some unfinished stainless flavors to the elements. 416 for example will certainly develop that brown bloom in short order.
I am looking for a great piece I read on the physical effect of hardening and how it increases corrosion resistance by altering the crystalline grain boundries, but I'm not able to find it.
Let me close with:
- firearms are made well and aluminum/stainless/alloy/polymer will hold up fine if you follow the mfg's recs on loads (+P in alumiunm, etc)
- don't compare "mill" material properties with finished good quality, processing in the middle to change those properties (intentionally by the mfg, for the most part)
Last edited by Shizzlemah; May 7th, 2007 at 12:40 AM.
Reason: typo- oxygen, carbon, close enough 'eh?
May 7th, 2007 03:14 PM
I was just thinking about the restaurant business since the other poster had mentioned that. There, I'm thinking the stainless is mostly in sheet form, used for tables, appliances, etc., so I'd think that corrosion resistance is the only really important trait here, not things like ultimate strength or hardness.
Originally Posted by Shizzlemah
In guns, the properties needed would be vastly different due to the stresses involved.
May 7th, 2007 03:22 PM
May 7th, 2007 07:17 PM
So you carry a stainless every day? How is it, I do have a small frame though, so...
Originally Posted by artz
May 7th, 2007 09:16 PM
May 8th, 2007 08:19 PM
Hmmm... i have a para that is 'stainless'. it has a bit of rust in a couple of spots. mind you it has not been gently taken care of, guess you might even say i have on times been negligent in its care. still it is a nice piece even though i was surprised at the rust. now i have a old blued beretta that has not shown any rust with the same treatment for many more years. go figure.
The world is a dangerous place to live... not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it. - Albert Einstein
May 8th, 2007 09:38 PM
Wipe the rust off and apply some good ole car wax.
That'll usually keep it from rusting.
hecks...the next step towards registration and confiscation.
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