Revolver Cleaning/ Maintenance

This is a discussion on Revolver Cleaning/ Maintenance within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I have only owned Glocks and now have a Smith 642. How do you recommend cleaning a revolver, and what would you put together for ...

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Thread: Revolver Cleaning/ Maintenance

  1. #1
    Member Array Dolphin's Avatar
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    Revolver Cleaning/ Maintenance

    I have only owned Glocks and now have a Smith 642. How do you recommend cleaning a revolver, and what would you put together for a cleaning kit?- Thanks

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  3. #2
    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    easiest way is a boresnake

    I Don't like cleaning any gun from the Muzzle but on a wheelie you are stuck

    but a boresnake

    or a jag that is to size then bronze bore brushes and nylon brushes

    I run the bore snake down the barrel with preferred cleaner and if i was shooting lead use the bronze bore brush

    the nylon brush i chuck up in a drill soak it in cleaner and run it in and out of the cylinder each charge hole

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    VIP Member Array Superhouse 15's Avatar
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    Cleaning

    I care for high-mileage range rentals. Lately I've been using this foam:http://www.gunslick.com/products/che.../cleaners.aspx
    Works good, and with minimal mess, fuss, or problems. Squirt in barrel, squirt in chambers, wait, clean out with a jag or slotted tip with a bit of Gunscrubber on it, or a bit of #9, wipe that clean and lube as you prefer. For lube I've been using X1-R grease and their light oil:http://www.x1r.com/sports2.htm Plus, they're local so I save shipping, but the stuff works.

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    A point - to do with revo cleaning operation ......... and probably obvious but - keep the cylinder cradled in spare hand while working on the gun - do not let cylinder/crane flop out and of course close carefully, without a flick!!

    Sounds obvious but I still see wannabees at range playing Hollywood and flicking cylinder hard. When it falls open hard - the cylinder mass even if light, can cause distortion of crane pivot - over time anyways.

    Be kind to cylinders
    Chris - P95
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    Member Array colonel102's Avatar
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    I've got a 642 and a couple other wheelies...I use on all of my firearms M-PRO 7. It'll take everything off including the first layer of your skin!! Works great. I do use a brush and patches going in @ the business side of the barrel. Once the M-PRO 7 is done, I lube where I need to (down the barrel once...then dry patch until dry...on various working parts, etc.) with Rem Oil. BTW, i use a brush on the cylinders just like they're a barrel. Clean it all

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    +1 Bud

    Bore snake. and hold it firm don't let the cylinder flop around.
    “You can sway a thousand men by appealing to their prejudices quicker than you can convince one man by logic.”

    ― Robert A. Heinlein,

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    Senior Member Array Smith&Wessonfan's Avatar
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    Every now and then (like every 500 rounds) remove the cylinder off the gun and clean the crane's pivot. You would be amazed at the abrasive paste of oil/solvent/carbon particles that accumulates there.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Array Smith&Wessonfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colonel102 View Post
    BTW, i use a brush on the cylinders just like they're a barrel. Clean it all
    Very important to do. Carbon buildup at the chamber's mouth will not let rounds fed via speedloader drop down all the way with just gravity. Especially so in a 357 that has seen a steady diet of 38 Special.

  10. #9
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    Use a Lead Cloth to melt lead deposits off of cylinder faces and around top strap, forcing cone and breech area. Go easy on blued guns as hard rubbing will wear away bluing. Stainless you can rub as hard as you want. I would go easy on nickle guns as well.

    Those lead cloths are indespensable on revolvers. I had lead baked on the cylinder faces of my stainless rugers I thought I would never get off... Now they look factory new.


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    Last edited by Bark'n; June 16th, 2007 at 09:51 PM.
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