Steel vs Alloy Frame for 3" .45

Steel vs Alloy Frame for 3" .45

This is a discussion on Steel vs Alloy Frame for 3" .45 within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; OK... For concealed carry, have narrowed the decision to a Kimber 3" .45 Eclipse Ultra II with a steel frame or a Kimber 3" .45 ...

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Thread: Steel vs Alloy Frame for 3" .45

  1. #1
    New Member Array BWICapt's Avatar
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    Steel vs Alloy Frame for 3" .45

    OK... For concealed carry, have narrowed the decision to a Kimber 3" .45 Eclipse Ultra II with a steel frame or a Kimber 3" .45 CDP II (Custom Defense Package) with an alloy frame. Need some opinions. Thanks...


  2. #2
    VIP Member Array rodc13's Avatar
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    My EDC is an Ultra CDP II. The lighter weight is nice for carrying comfort. The extra "melt" treatment on the CDP line is also an advantage. Recoil is not at all unpleasant either. I don't have any problems with follow-up shot recoverability.
    Cheers,
    Rod
    "We're paratroopers. We're supposed to be surrounded!" Dick Winters

  3. #3
    Member Array kashton's Avatar
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    I just want to warn you, I bought a brand new Kimber Tactical Ultra II 3" 1911 model and it had major jamming problems. I would have gone for the 4 " or 5" model if I had known, I lost a few hundred dollars selling it back to them used after they had tried to fix it and were unable too. It was for CCW and after they 'fixed it' it still jammed about once every 40 rounds, which is unacceptable to me for a CCW weapon.

    Just trying to help.

    Kevin

    It even stoved piped a LIVE round. I took a picture of it on my phone's camera.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Array raysheen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kashton View Post
    I just want to warn you, I bought a brand new Kimber Tactical Ultra II 3" 1911 model and it had major jamming problems. I would have gone for the 4 " or 5" model if I had known, I lost a few hundred dollars selling it back to them used after they had tried to fix it and were unable too. It was for CCW and after they 'fixed it' it still jammed about once every 40 rounds, which is unacceptable to me for a CCW weapon.

    Just trying to help.

    Kevin

    It even stoved piped a LIVE round. I took a picture of it on my phone's camera.

    did you do the Kimber recommended 500 round break in with 500 rounds of ball?

  5. #5
    Member Array kashton's Avatar
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    That was after 600 rounds of white box ; )

    Here is the thread I had made about the jamming problems...

    It was an alluminum alloy frame

    http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...kimber+jamming

    You can also check the Kimber section on the 1911 forums. I just want to let you know before you make the purchase. You may get a good one, some people have luck and get a great Kimber firearm, but some people have very bad luck with them.

  6. #6
    Member Array Lobo_79's Avatar
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    More on the Tac Pro II

    Quote Originally Posted by kashton View Post
    ... I would have gone for the 4 " or 5" model if I had known...
    Funny you mentioned the problems you're having with your 3" model. I just got my 4" Tac Pro II back from Kimber. It also has a FTRB problem even after 700 rounds. Off the M1911 board I got a suggestion to swap out my recoil spring with one from Wolf. The theory was that my OEM recoil spring didn't have enough strength to return the slide to the battery position with a 230 gr. FMJ round. Allegedly the spring was too short and too weak.

    The new Wolf XP spring came in last night and I haven't had a chance to fire the gun yet but I'm looking forward to solving my problem. If this doesn't fix it I'll send it back to Kimber for its second visit since 1 July. Kimber's customer service has been ok but it's $54 per shipment and that adds up after awhile.

    This was my first 1911. I have 9 other semi-autos that have worked flawlessly right out of the box.

  7. #7
    VIP Member Array pogo2's Avatar
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    Weight appears to be main difference

    If you are set on the 3 inch Kimber Ultra it would appear that your only decision is the aluminum or the steel frame. That would mainly come down to a weight decision - the aluminum frame Ultra is about 25 ounces empty, while the steel frame is 34 ounces empty, according to the Kimber website - a difference of 9 ounces. The net effect of this difference would be that the aluminum frame version will be more comfortable to carry all day, while the steel frame version will absorb recoil more handily. The two have the same dimensions and would fit in the same holster.

    I have 2 aluminum frame 1911s and quite a few steel ones as well, and have carried both aluminum guns - a Kimber CDP Pro and a Colt Defender. They are easy to carry because of their moderate weight, but do recoil a bit more than my heavier, all steel 1911s. I don't find the recoil too heavy or a problem, however.

    I think in your position I would go with the aluminum frame for ease of carry. If the gun were mainly for range use, I'd go with steel because it will probably stand up to more total rounds of use better, and would be more pleasant to shoot. But in a carry gun the weight is a big factor, and you may not shoot it more than required to stay familiar with it.

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