Feed ramp polishing

This is a discussion on Feed ramp polishing within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Suggestions from anyone on what they use to polish feed ramps on 1911 Colts? My Commander has some surface scaring but nothing serious. I usually ...

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Thread: Feed ramp polishing

  1. #1
    Ex Member Array aiko1968's Avatar
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    Feed ramp polishing

    Suggestions from anyone on what they use to polish feed ramps on 1911 Colts? My Commander has some surface scaring but nothing serious. I usually use emory cloth on a dremel head but this looks like it will take more than that.

    Suggestions?

    TIA

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  3. #2
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    A small Dremel felt mop with fine abrasive paste works well I have found. Jeweller's rouge paste does very well but Simicrome is good too.

    At a pinch use regular toothpaste ... patience should yield a mirror finish.
    Chris - P95
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    Member Array Cloudpeak's Avatar
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    If you look on the 1911 forums, you'll find that everyone "in the know" will pass out if you mention "Dremel" tool and 1911s in the same sentence. I would suggest doing a lot of on line research about this before proceeding unless you have a favorite gunsmith who needs to send a kid to college Do a search on ramp or polish.

    http://www.1911forum.com/forums/index.php?
    http://forum.m1911.org/index.php?

    Cloudpeak

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    You didn't mention whether it's a steel frame or an aluminum frame.

    When you polish a feed ramp on an alloy frame, you run the risk of removing the anodizing (surface hardening) which exposes the much softer bare aluminum to accelerated wear.


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    I must confess I was actually thinking of integral feedramps with barrels (like for example on SW99) ..... and forgetting until Capt mentioned re frame material - good point.

    Of course yes, this is important and I was thinking steel as per my Sistema. I do also buff the chamber chamfer also. ''Dremel'' does produce a shudder with many but used with care and per felt mop approach is not on steel anyways gonna remove much material at all.
    Chris - P95
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    "To own a gun and assume that you are armed
    is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."


    http://www.rkba-2a.com/ - a portal for 2A links, articles and some videos.

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    Member Array Cloudpeak's Avatar
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    I guess I was keying in on "I usually use emory cloth on a dremel head but this looks like it will take more than that."

    Cloudpeak

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    Ex Member Array aiko1968's Avatar
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    I was thinking of using this big chunk of white paste jewelers polish. i think it's called Zap, something along these lines. It's a stainless steel barrel, ramp, handgun.
    I've polished them before with Emory cloth but I swear it took 3 hours by hand, why I mentioned the Dremel. In low speed and with some gunsmith experience I don't think I'll burn a hole through the ramp but the shudder is a problem.
    I don't think paying a gunsmith is the answer. I prefer to do these things myself so I can learn as I go. I am not new to handguns, just to this forum.
    So what do you think? The surface scratches are minimal and came from using cheap Independence rounds at a range. I noticed my fingernail making an indent in the casing of the rounds as I loaded the mags. I switched to the sissy EZ loader. I have now started carrying a polymer speed loader for mags now just because of this.
    The ramp isn't malfunctioning yet but it won't be long with some of these scratches.
    Thanks for the input so far. I am going to start with a mild jewelry polish as P95 suggested, thanks P, that beats an emory cloth. But what about the tool? I've seen gunsmiths using the Dremel often, why shouldn't I?

    TIA

  9. #8
    Ex Member Array aiko1968's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P95Carry View Post
    A small Dremel felt mop with fine abrasive paste works well I have found. Jeweller's rouge paste does very well but Simicrome is good too.

    At a pinch use regular toothpaste ... patience should yield a mirror finish.
    On low speed for the Dremel, correct? I have the felt mops. It's a Colt stainless steel barrel and ramp. I have no idea what Simicrome is but I will look it up!

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    Simicrome or Simichrome - is chrome polish IIRC in a tube - just a wightish paste.

    My multi-speed Dremel is fast enough on lower speed for most buffing but sometimes up the speed for final mirror finish buffing at which stage I don't add any more polish ... just relying on the slight heat generated thru friction to get the result.

    Worth experimenting on some scrap material or a less-than important gun ... just to get the feel. I would normally secure the part to be worked on in leather clad vice jaws - so workpiece cannot move. Set angle such that the Dremel can be held secure to control any judder tendency - and keep pressure quite light.
    Chris - P95
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    "To own a gun and assume that you are armed
    is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."


    http://www.rkba-2a.com/ - a portal for 2A links, articles and some videos.

  11. #10
    Ex Member Array aiko1968's Avatar
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    Thank you sir, the chunk of jewelry polish worked well. I can pick my teeth in it. I already did it on low speed with my Dremel, then put a new polish wheel on without any medium and buffed it to a nice shine. All I have to do now is drive down to my place on the water and make sure I didn't over polish!

    Thanks again P95.

  12. #11
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    I probably would not polish it unless you're having feed related problems specifically attributable to the frame ramp.

    Really on a Colt 1911 the importance of a highly polished frame feed ramp is slightly overplayed in importance.

    If you remove your slide and barrel and then insert and "lock in" a loaded magazine and then carefully ease the top round straight forward from the inserted magazine - you'll then see for yourself that the bullet nose of most hollow points only utilizes about the top 1/8" of the frame ramp anyway.
    Hardball has even less of a contact point slightly higher up than that.

    SO...in reality...the 1911 frame ramp REALLY only serves as a "curved wedge" to force the bullet noses up into/onto the barrel ramp. It does nothing much more than that.

    In actuality the fully polished "mirror bright" frame feed ramp is "nice looking window dressing" and not much more than...geesh...I hate to say it..."Decorative"

    If there are any marks or dings that have started showing on the frame feed ramp further down than aprox. 1/8" - they are likely from the front metal edge of magazine followers and NOT caused by any ammunition hitting the frame ramp and those marks would not affect feed functioning. --- Because the rounds feed from higher up than that.

    Copper, Lead, and Brass all have a material hardness level lower than the Steel or Stainless steel that your frame is fabricated from and so your cartridges (in the process of normal feeding from the magazine) would not be causative of dents or dings in your frame ramp.
    Just FYI that you can make it look pretty if you want to but, it's really not necessary.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  13. #12
    Ex Member Array aiko1968's Avatar
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    I see why Savage sent all of us here. You guys know your stuff!

    It was a cosmetic thing, I hate scratches. Interesting point about the magazine instead of the Independence rounds. Only thing is I cleaned the weapon no scratches, after shooting at the range with Independence rounds ---scratches. Same mags as always for the range so I was confused as to how they goth their. I will do some testing manually cycling to see if I can recreate what I have already polished out.

    Thanks
    Last edited by JD; September 27th, 2007 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Removed language work around....

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