Revolver terminology & Practicality

This is a discussion on Revolver terminology & Practicality within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I'm pretty new to revolvers. In reading about custom revolvers I keep coming across the same terms. What do these mean in plain english and ...

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Thread: Revolver terminology & Practicality

  1. #1
    Member Array Dolphin's Avatar
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    Revolver terminology & Practicality

    I'm pretty new to revolvers. In reading about custom revolvers I keep coming across the same terms. What do these mean in plain english and what would the advantage/disadvantage of having each done be? Thanks.
    1) complete action tuning(9, 10, or 11# )
    2) crown barrel
    3) recontour & polish trigger
    4) eliminate cylinder endshake
    5) polish all plungers and pins
    6) bob hammer
    I'm sure this is pretty basic to you guys, but I'd appreciate any guidance.

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  3. #2
    Member Array gpsxplr's Avatar
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    I don't know a lot about these terms but there
    is some interesting reading on this site on custom revolvers.

    http://www.grantcunningham.com/index.html
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    VIP Member Array ghost tracker's Avatar
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    Welcome to Wheel Guns!

    1.) Those X# numbers are the resistance weight (in pounds) of the hammer spring options. Lighter ones make for an easier trigger-pull. Go TOO light and you get FTF from too light of a primer strike. (No Bang!)

    2.) Crowning the barrel isn't cosmetic. As the bullet leaves the barrel being pushed by the gases of the just burnt powder, the more precisely concentric & perpendicular the end of the barrel (in relation to the C/L of the bore) the more consistantly accurate the revolver. If the gas excapes anywhere around the bullet in ADVANCE of anywhere else, because it not concentric & perpendicular, those early excaping gases will "push" the bullet away from its intended line.

    3.) Most serious revolver shooters like their finger to slide smoothly across the trigger during DA fire. It's a controlled slide, but a slide just the same. A smooth trigger-face polish makes this an uninterupted motion, promoting accuracy.

    4.) Unintended front to back "slop" between cylinder & frame effecting (changing) the cylinder-to-frame "gap". This "gap", being made inconsistant by the slop, can have the same negative effect on accuracy as issue #2 because the jump (gap) between cylinder & barrel throat varies from shot to shot.

    5.) Pins run back & forth inside a plunger tube as the trigger is pulled. Roughness at this interface (especially in Ruger DA Revolvers) causes a "gritty" feel to the trigger & (in-turn) effects the smoothness with which the cylinder revolves. Like the sear/hammer surfaces, smooth is the goal.

    6.) Depending on how extreme the "bob", it can mean mean the revolver is now DAO (double action only, no spur) or simply less likely to snag because the size of the hammer spur has been reduced & re-contoured.

    Hope this helps in your Wheelgun Learning Curve.
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    All of that being said. Don't have unnecessary work done if your revolver does not need it for your intended purpose.

    Nearly EVERY revolver can benefit from from a well done action & tuning job from a qualified gunsmith.
    Plus...usually a slight lightening of the Double Action pull.

    A smooth and polished trigger face is a nice added plus also.

    If your revolver is accurate enough so that it already shoots better than you do - then you might want to pass on the barrel re-crowning.
    Having your barrel re-crowned would probably not be needed on a personal defense gun unless the existing barrel crown is physically damaged.

    If your revolver cylinder does not have a cylinder "end-shake" problem (and almost all new wheel guns do not have an end-shake problem) then (of course) pass on that one also.

    If you want to use your wheel-gun single action as well as double action then naturally you would not want to have your hammer bobbed since then you'll not be able to cock it for a single action shot because the hammer spur will be removed.

    One place where you should spend some money is on ergonomic revolver grips that will almost always fit your hand better than the factory grips.

    Another custom touch that IS worth the money spent is to have the sharp edges removed from your cylinder cartridge holes.

    That is called "chamfering" and it will speed up your reloads because the sharp edges will not cut into your cartridges during a fast reload.
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    Member Array Dolphin's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I have a much better understanding now.

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