Revolver terminology & Practicality
This is a discussion on Revolver terminology & Practicality within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I'm pretty new to revolvers. In reading about custom revolvers I keep coming across the same terms. What do these mean in plain english and ...
October 5th, 2007 05:11 AM
Revolver terminology & Practicality
I'm pretty new to revolvers. In reading about custom revolvers I keep coming across the same terms. What do these mean in plain english and what would the advantage/disadvantage of having each done be? Thanks.
1) complete action tuning(9, 10, or 11# )
2) crown barrel
3) recontour & polish trigger
4) eliminate cylinder endshake
5) polish all plungers and pins
6) bob hammer
I'm sure this is pretty basic to you guys, but I'd appreciate any guidance.
October 5th, 2007 10:16 AM
I don't know a lot about these terms but there
is some interesting reading on this site on custom revolvers.
"Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both."
October 5th, 2007 10:41 AM
Welcome to Wheel Guns!
1.) Those X# numbers are the resistance weight (in pounds) of the hammer spring options. Lighter ones make for an easier trigger-pull. Go TOO light and you get FTF from too light of a primer strike. (No Bang!)
2.) Crowning the barrel isn't cosmetic. As the bullet leaves the barrel being pushed by the gases of the just burnt powder, the more precisely concentric & perpendicular the end of the barrel (in relation to the C/L of the bore) the more consistantly accurate the revolver. If the gas excapes anywhere around the bullet in ADVANCE of anywhere else, because it not concentric & perpendicular, those early excaping gases will "push" the bullet away from its intended line.
3.) Most serious revolver shooters like their finger to slide smoothly across the trigger during DA fire. It's a controlled slide, but a slide just the same. A smooth trigger-face polish makes this an uninterupted motion, promoting accuracy.
4.) Unintended front to back "slop" between cylinder & frame effecting (changing) the cylinder-to-frame "gap". This "gap", being made inconsistant by the slop, can have the same negative effect on accuracy as issue #2 because the jump (gap) between cylinder & barrel throat varies from shot to shot.
5.) Pins run back & forth inside a plunger tube as the trigger is pulled. Roughness at this interface (especially in Ruger DA Revolvers) causes a "gritty" feel to the trigger & (in-turn) effects the smoothness with which the cylinder revolves. Like the sear/hammer surfaces, smooth is the goal.
6.) Depending on how extreme the "bob", it can mean mean the revolver is now DAO (double action only, no spur) or simply less likely to snag because the size of the hammer spur has been reduced & re-contoured.
Hope this helps in your Wheelgun Learning Curve.
There are only TWO kinds of people in this world; those who describe the world as filled with two kinds of people...and those who don't.
October 5th, 2007 11:16 AM
October 5th, 2007 04:53 PM
Thanks guys, I have a much better understanding now.
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