Grip screws and bushing problems on 1911

Grip screws and bushing problems on 1911

This is a discussion on Grip screws and bushing problems on 1911 within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Hello, I am having a problem with one of the grip screw holes on my Kimber. Anytime I change the grips, the bushing unscrews with ...

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Thread: Grip screws and bushing problems on 1911

  1. #1
    Member Array Bowie's Avatar
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    Grip screws and bushing problems on 1911

    Hello,
    I am having a problem with one of the grip screw holes on my Kimber. Anytime I change the grips, the bushing unscrews with the screw and then I can't get them seperated and they end up stuck on the grip. It is always the same hole. I thought about using locktite to keep the bushing in place, would this cause problems later? And how do you seperate the dang screw from the bushing without ruining one or the other? Thanks for any suggestions you folks may have. These screws are making me screwy
    Glock 26 4gen, H&K USPc, S&W 642, Wilson Combat 1911 CQB


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    OD*
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bowie View Post
    I thought about using locktite to keep the bushing in place, would this cause problems later?
    Nope, it's the second best way to fix them, the first being staking the bushing.

    And how do you seperate the dang screw from the bushing without ruining one or the other?
    Don't try to separate them.

    Clean the threads on the bushing and those in the frame, apply a little Loctite to the threads in the frame and replace the bushing, tighten it snugly. Let it set-up overnight and your stock screw should come out without the bushing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by OD View Post
    Nope, it's the second best way to fix them, the first being staking the bushing.


    Don't try to separate them.

    Clean the threads on the bushing and those in the frame, apply a little Loctite to the threads in the frame and replace the bushing, tighten it snugly. Let it set-up overnight and your stock screw should come out without the bushing.
    yep what he said
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    Those fine threads are super easy to mess up. Just take your time but, on the plus side replacement bushings are fairly inexpensive.
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    Special tool for 1911 grip screw bushing installation and removal

    For about $20 you can buy a special tool for 1911 grip screw bushing installation and removal. Here is a link to one vendor, plus a picture of the tool and 2 bits, one for regular and one for ultra thin grip screw bushings:

    Grip bushing tool website


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    Thanks for the responses everyone, it is much appreciated. I will just locktite that sucker and be done with it then. I will probably get that Tool also. One question.

    Nope, it's the second best way to fix them, the first being staking the bushing.
    Had not heard this term before, what does staking the bushing entail?

    Thanks again
    Glock 26 4gen, H&K USPc, S&W 642, Wilson Combat 1911 CQB

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bowie View Post
    Hello,
    I am having a problem with one of the grip screw holes on my Kimber. Anytime I change the grips, the bushing unscrews with the screw and then I can't get them seperated and they end up stuck on the grip. It is always the same hole. I thought about using locktite to keep the bushing in place, would this cause problems later? And how do you seperate the dang screw from the bushing without ruining one or the other? Thanks for any suggestions you folks may have. These screws are making me screwy
    Wow, I wish I had your problem, mine are exactly opposite. I was attempting to change bushings (grip change) in mine and they are so tight I was afraid I'd completely destroy them (even with the tool) so I quit and gave up. The "staking" is the main barrier on removal. The guys here gave me great assistance,(thanks again) but I decided that I'd quit while I was ahead.
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    VIP Member Array pogo2's Avatar
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    Staking

    Quote Originally Posted by Bowie View Post
    Had not heard this term before, what does staking the bushing entail?
    "Staking" is a method of fixing a pin in a hole by deforming the metal of the pin where it comes out of the hole, making it larger in diameter so it won't easily fit back through the hole. This will lock the pin in place fairly permanently until you "undeform" the metal back to the original shape. Staking is used on 1911s at several places, such as the plunger tube and the front sight (if not a dovetail sight). It can also be used on the grip bushings.

    There are special tools available for staking - Brownells probably sells them.

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    Make sure not to use red locktite unless you never want to remove the bushing again. Blue works great.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ppkheat View Post
    Wow, I wish I had your problem, mine are exactly opposite. I was attempting to change bushings (grip change) in mine and they are so tight I was afraid I'd completely destroy them (even with the tool) so I quit and gave up. The "staking" is the main barrier on removal. The guys here gave me great assistance,(thanks again) but I decided that I'd quit while I was ahead.
    That sucks PPKheat, sorry about your luck. I love my 1911 but they can sure be a pain in the neck sometimes.

    Thanks for the explanation Pogo2.
    Glock 26 4gen, H&K USPc, S&W 642, Wilson Combat 1911 CQB

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    Quote Originally Posted by Supertac45 View Post
    Make sure not to use red locktite unless you never want to remove the bushing again. Blue works great.

    Thanks for the advice, I was gonna use red too. I will go get the blue stuff.
    Glock 26 4gen, H&K USPc, S&W 642, Wilson Combat 1911 CQB

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    brownells does have the staking tool

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    This happened on my Kimber Ultra Carry with one of the bushings. Just alittle Blue loctite on the threads and it was good to go the next day.

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    Super , Red locktite is no problem to remove , simply ( carefully ) take a torch and heat the locktited part to 450f or so and the red will turn right loose . 450 wont hurt most gunparts ( plastic excluded ) you just have to be carefull to get an even heat and not get hot spots that could change hardness/temper .
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    I would try cleaning the threads with a tap & die set first, or get a new set of bushings/bolt if they're too messed up.

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