Need Advise on deburring/grinding on a new MK9

This is a discussion on Need Advise on deburring/grinding on a new MK9 within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Not sure if this is the right place to post but here's the question... I just purchased a Kahr MK9 and I love it so ...

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Thread: Need Advise on deburring/grinding on a new MK9

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member Array Gideon's Avatar
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    Need Advise on deburring/grinding on a new MK9

    Not sure if this is the right place to post but here's the question...

    I just purchased a Kahr MK9 and I love it so far. I'll try to post an initial range report and pics this weekend but I do have a nice blister/cut on my shooting hand thumb from the tip of the backstrap. Now here's my crazy idea...

    I've thought about taking a dremel and a sanding wheel and just touching up that lip on the upper backstrap, however, this gun has a "MATTE" stainless finish. If I do that, I'm afraid it won't match the finish. So here's a stupid question, If you cut on MATTE stainless, is it shiney underneath? Or is the metal the same color underneath?

    Just curious. I know I could send it to someone but would they have to refinish the pistol?

    The other solution is to be more careful with my grip! :biggrin

    So if you have any advise on this, I'd love to hear it!

    And by the way, the gun shoots VERY accurate and I was right about the weight of the MK9 helping such a small gun to shoot well. It shoots better than my P9.

    God Bless
    Gideon

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Array rmarkob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gideon View Post
    I just purchased a Kahr MK9 and I love it so far. I'll try to post an initial range report and pics this weekend but I do have a nice blister/cut on my shooting hand thumb from the tip of the backstrap.
    I had the exact same thing happen to me with my PM9. I was firing the 200 rounds Kahr recommends to break the gun in.

    I've thought about taking a dremel and a sanding wheel and just touching up that lip on the upper backstrap, however, this gun has a "MATTE" stainless finish. If I do that, I'm afraid it won't match the finish. So here's a stupid question, If you cut on MATTE stainless, is it shiney underneath? Or is the metal the same color underneath?
    Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question. I've thought of doing the same thing with the PM9, but of course it's polymer in that spot and I'd probably be able to blend it in a little better without needing to refinish like you might.

    The other solution is to be more careful with my grip!
    Me too!
    Clinging to guns and God in PA...

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    EW3
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    Senior Member Array EW3's Avatar
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    Wear a shooting glove. IMO a Dremel can wreck something really quickly.
    "Naked and Starving as They are We Cannot Enough Admire the Incomparable Patience and Fidelity of the Soldiery" George Washington, Valley Forge, 1777.

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    I would much rather you use a file than a dremel... they can get out of hand in a hurry.
    I had a problem with the slide stop digging into my thumb on the PM9, so I did round out the corner of the slide stop... it was the same color and you cannot tell except for the rounding of course.
    "Just blame Sixto"

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    VIP Member Array pogo2's Avatar
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    Kahr MK9 finish

    I have a Kahr MK9 and agree that it is a very accurate gun for its small size.

    The finish on the gun is "matte" stainless, which is probably achieved by bead blasting with glass beads or abrasive tumbling the parts before assembly at the factory. If you do any sort of light sanding or polishing it will still be stainless where you removed metal, but it might have a different appearance at that spot depending upon exactly what you did to it. For example, it could become shiny if you used a metal polishing compound on the spot. Or it could look "brushed" if finished with a wire wheel or equivalent.

    If the spot in question is small and the gun is for use rather than show, it probably won't matter too much if there is a shiny spot where you removed metal. The gun will still work and somebody would have to look closely to see it. You could also bring back the matte appearance by another round of bead blasting. It is your call whether the improvement is worth it to you.
    Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the Peoples' Liberty's Teeth." - George Washington

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    Post TIP

    Most of the problems that folks incur with using a Dremel Mototool are as follows.

    They either run it at too slow of a speed and then the bur or tool can catch and slip. Whoops!

    Or they use the incorrect bur or wheel for the intended job.

    The Cratex rubberized abrasives in their various configurations and grits do not remove much metal at a pass and they are really easy to carefully control.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~
    Tip Of The Day

    One method of matching a matte surface in a small area...& it's NOT perfect but it's usually close enough.

    That is to use some brand new 3M Wet or Dry - You'll need to play with the various grits on a piece of smooth scrap metal...anyway here is what you do. (see below)


    Cut a small piece of Wet or Dry....Position it over the area that you want matte....Lightly tap the rear of the paper with a small Brass or Aluminum mallet.
    Move the paper slightly & then re tap....LOOK at the metal...if it's not Matte enough then keep moving it and lightly tapping or move on up to the next coarser grit.

    Basically what you are doing is transferring the carbide grit pattern of the paper to the surface of the metal.

    If Stainless - You're done. If Carbon Steel - Reblue with cold blue.

    It works great...take your time with it.
    Do not use a steel mallet.
    The mallet metal needs to be softer than the steel because you don't want to ding the surface of the steel through the sandpaper.

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