P+ Rounds & spring/buff info please

P+ Rounds & spring/buff info please

This is a discussion on P+ Rounds & spring/buff info please within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I have a Kimber Raptor II. Was at Bass Pro and bought some Hornady 230 gr. JHP XTP's for my ammo choice. Well I didn't ...

Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Senior Member Array SOLOLUCKY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    ROSS OHIO
    Posts
    517

    Question P+ Rounds & spring/buff info please

    I have a Kimber Raptor II. Was at Bass Pro and bought some Hornady 230 gr. JHP XTP's for my ammo choice. Well I didn't notice they were P+ rounds til I got them home (yeah I know ) well I know the Kimber will handle the increased pressure. It's not gonna be a constant diet of P+ ammo but I have read a few things about using an 18lb spring and a shock buff. Ok I ordered an 18 lb spring (6 bucks no biggie) but have read some differing opinions on shock buffs and I honestly don't even know what they are! Where do they go. I can assume they "buffer the shock" but if the Gun Gurus could enlighten me and if you think the "buff" is needed. (and where it goes)

    Thanks.
    R1

    This is mine. That is yours.

    Lets keep it that way.


  2. #2
    Member Array Cloudpeak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    241
    Quote Originally Posted by SOLOLUCKY View Post
    I have a Kimber Raptor II. Was at Bass Pro and bought some Hornady 230 gr. JHP XTP's for my ammo choice. Well I didn't notice they were P+ rounds til I got them home (yeah I know ) well I know the Kimber will handle the increased pressure. It's not gonna be a constant diet of P+ ammo but I have read a few things about using an 18lb spring and a shock buff. Ok I ordered an 18 lb spring (6 bucks no biggie) but have read some differing opinions on shock buffs and I honestly don't even know what they are! Where do they go. I can assume they "buffer the shock" but if the Gun Gurus could enlighten me and if you think the "buff" is needed. (and where it goes)

    Thanks.
    I've never used them in my 1911s but, from what I've read, most don't seem to recommend buffs for carry guns. I think this is due to deformation and the pounding they get can cause pieces to break off and possibly tie up the pistol. You might do a search on one of the 1911 forums to see more on this.

    Cloudpeak

  3. #3
    Administrator
    Array QKShooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Off Of The X
    Posts
    35,433
    You can install the heavier spring if you want to but, I would forget the shok buff.
    You really are not going to beat or batter your Raptor frame up with one box of + even with the factory standard recoil spring.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  4. #4
    Senior Member Array SOLOLUCKY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    ROSS OHIO
    Posts
    517
    10-4 ...Thanks for the input.
    Ya'all are very knowledgable on these details and I respect and definitely take yer advice.
    R1

    This is mine. That is yours.

    Lets keep it that way.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Array mr surveyor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Texas, South of the Sabine
    Posts
    1,149
    I installed a 24# wilson combat spring in my Kimber Compact Stainless a few months ago to correct some minor failure to go into battery when using low powered range ammo ... what's with the light springs?

  6. #6
    Member Array Cloudpeak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    241
    Quote Originally Posted by mr surveyor View Post
    I installed a 24# wilson combat spring in my Kimber Compact Stainless a few months ago to correct some minor failure to go into battery when using low powered range ammo ... what's with the light springs?
    The shorter barreled 1911s use a higher rate spring. I believe the stock spring weight for your Kimber (4" ?) is 22 lbs. From what I've read about FTRB, increasing spring rate may solve (mask) a problem but doesn't really fix it. There is something else going on if you have FTRB. Plus, I believe it causes more wear via "battering". Generally, when shooting reduced loads, one goes to a lighter spring. There have been lots of threads on the 1911 forums about spring rates, FTRB, etc.

    I believe most 5 inch 1911s use a stock spring of 16 lbs. For reduced loads in my Springfield Loaded 5", I went to 14 lbs.

    Cloudpeak

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array mr surveyor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Texas, South of the Sabine
    Posts
    1,149
    thanks

    I'm sure the spring was somewhat weak anyway. The gun is an early Compact Stainless made in '97-'98, and was previously owned by a former leo. I have owned it for a bit more than a year, and had a few very minor problems. The 24# spring seems to have totally eliminated all the issues.

    Would you recommend I back off to a 20-22# spring and give it a try?

  8. #8
    Member Array Cloudpeak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    241
    Quote Originally Posted by mr surveyor View Post
    thanks

    I'm sure the spring was somewhat weak anyway. The gun is an early Compact Stainless made in '97-'98, and was previously owned by a former leo. I have owned it for a bit more than a year, and had a few very minor problems. The 24# spring seems to have totally eliminated all the issues.

    Would you recommend I back off to a 20-22# spring and give it a try?
    mr surveyor,

    I'm sure not an expert on 1911s. Those were just my thoughts based on what I've read (and I read a lot about 1911s because they're my favorite pistols)

    I'd suggest you look at a couple of 1911 forums if you haven't already. I really like the "gun smithing" part of this forum and here is one thread I quickly came up with concerning FTRB on a Kimber. (Other makes of 1911s have the same problems.)

    The M1911 Pistols Organization Forums Site - Kimber Compact CDP II issues, what would yo do?

    The other forum I like is: 1911Forum - Powered by vBulletin

    I really like reading anything by "1911Tuner" in the gunsmithing part of the m1911.org forum. There are some other very helpful, knowledgable people there, as well.

    As I said, I think the general feeling is higher spring rates mask other problems and probably aren't the best for the pistol, long term but these guys can give you much more valuable information than I can.

    Good luck.

    Cloudpeak

  9. #9
    Senior Member Array HK Dan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    776
    I wouldn't have one in a defensive gun. I've seen the problems the shock buff can cause in USPSA matches, and it's just not worth the headache (particularly on a Kimber, which is a little tight anyway).

    You can go with the 18# spring without a problem if you want to! I know a guy who runs a 8# spring in his match gun--he can rack the slide with two fingers. I think that's a little extreme, but it works fine and his STI has not flown apart yet. You've got to figure that your 22# spring will be an 18# spring in a few thousand rounds anyway, so why not enjoy the quicker shot recovery a little early?

    One man's opinion,
    HK Dan
    "What does Marcellus Wallace LOOK like?"

  10. #10
    Administrator
    Array QKShooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Off Of The X
    Posts
    35,433
    What "WEIGHT" recoil spring is correct for the cartridges you're shooting or carrying?

    Here is an easy way to tell if your recoil spring is too strong or too weak - and if you should move up or down in spring weight.


    If your brass is exiting the ejection port and is dropping really close to you (and your firearm) then move down in recoil spring pound weight. Your spring is too strong.
    Buy a slightly weaker spring.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    If your ejected brass is sailing way out into the Ionosphere - that goes way beyond "positive ejection" and is not necessary.
    Either your "standard factory correct" recoil spring needs to be swapped for a fresh factory weight spring - or your recoil spring is too weak.
    Buy a stronger spring.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Sig 238 recoil spring vs. Mustang Pocketlite spring
    By imthduke in forum Defensive Carry Guns
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: June 30th, 2010, 02:23 PM
  2. fluff and buff
    By JGglock in forum General Firearm Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: December 12th, 2009, 09:32 AM
  3. Buff a Kahr?
    By Jaystekan in forum Defensive Carry Guns
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: January 24th, 2008, 12:03 AM
  4. Fluff 'n Buff?
    By cannon in forum Defensive Carry Guns
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: September 3rd, 2007, 01:22 AM
  5. Buff Up Another DARWIN AWARD
    By QKShooter in forum Off Topic & Humor Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: October 28th, 2005, 08:25 PM

Search tags for this page

1911 18 lb recoil spring ftrb

,

1911 shok buff on a defensive gun

,

pro raptor ii 18lb

,

shok-buffs and 18lb. recoil spring

Click on a term to search for related topics.

» Log in

User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!

» DefensiveCarry Sponsors