HELP Me!!!

This is a discussion on HELP Me!!! within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I'm trying to field strip my Ruger 22/45 Mrk III. In the instructions, it says that a blow from a hammer to the back of ...

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Thread: HELP Me!!!

  1. #1
    Senior Member Array firefighter4884's Avatar
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    HELP Me!!!

    I'm trying to field strip my Ruger 22/45 Mrk III. In the instructions, it says that a blow from a hammer to the back of the reciever will disconnect the reciever from the grip assembly.

    I've tried this, and I can't get the pistol apart. Does anyone have any suggestions.

    I'm also nervous about not taking it any further apart, because may have changed the allignment of the hammer, and I don't want to ruin my pistol.

    :(

    ok...so Now I've found something I dislike about the Ruger (it's a PITA to take apart!!!)

    --Jim
    Firefighter / EMT - Always Ready. Ever Willing.

    ~Never do anything that you don't want to have to explain to the paramedics...~

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  3. #2
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    Array QKShooter's Avatar
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    might help

    TRY THIS ONE LINK
    Click Here

    Mark II 22/45
    web document

    I have been working with the Ruger Mark II for almost 10 years now and the
    most common complaint I have heard about it is that it is tough to field
    strip and reassemble. Over the years I have disassembled and reassembled
    them enough that I can pretty much do it in my sleep. But I have had people
    come into my store more times than I can count with a Ruger Mark II because
    they took it apart to clean it and couldn't get it back together. So I
    decided to write a short article explaining some of the tricks I've learned
    over the years.

    The Ruger Mark II, although it may not look that way to a beginner is really
    a very simple design. The trick to easily field stripping the Ruger is to
    understand the basic operation of the parts you are working with and their
    relation to the other parts. So I decided to try and explain this as best I
    could, hopefully without confusing you even more. I will use pictures of one
    of my Mark II's so you can actually see what I am talking about.


    Step 1 Safety First
    As always, the first step is to take the magazine out of the gun and to make
    sure the chamber is empty. If you don't know what I'm talking about...STOP
    THE LESSON. You have no business picking up a gun if you don't know how to
    unload it or how to check if it is unloaded and safe. I hate hearing stories
    about "accidents" where people get shot or shoot someone else while
    "cleaning" their gun.

    Step 2 Removing the Mainspring Housing
    Use a small screwdriver to pry the mainspring-housing latch outward until it
    stops.(pic-1) Next, pull the mainspring housing up toward the top of the
    gun. (pic-2) Now pull the mainspring housing down and out of the gun.
    (pic-3) Here I show the relation of the mainspring housing to the frame.
    (pic-4)

    Step 4 Removing the Bolt and Receiver
    Now you can slide the receiver forward (toward the front of the gun) and
    remove it from the frame. If your receiver is tight to the frame, it may be
    necessary to use a rubber or rawhide mallet to tap it free. Hold the barrel
    and tap the front of the frame and it should come free. Then the bolt simply
    slides out the back of the receiver. The bolt can be removed before you
    remove the receiver from the frame if you like. (pic-5)

    Step 5 Cleaning
    This is as far as you need to break down your pistol for cleaning. Now that
    you have field stripped your pistol, you are ready to clean it. Be sure to
    clean the inside of the receiver and the face of the bolt thoroughly. I use
    a dental pick to scrape out the "gunk" inside the receiver, then I use
    Q-tips to get the rest out. The chamber should also be cleaned, but the
    barrel usually needs very little cleaning. I almost never clean the barrel
    on my 22's. I like to use a 22 bore brush in the chamber, but instead of
    going back and forth, I twist it clockwise. This method works for me. As far
    as the frame goes, I usually use Crud Cutter spray to blast all the loose
    dirt out and then lightly oil the moving parts. Once a year or so I'll
    completely disassemble the frame and clean each part thoroughly, but this is
    a lot more complicated than simple field stripping. Now that your pistol is
    clean, your are ready to reassemble it.

    Step 7 Before you Start
    Before you start to reassemble your pistol, you need to look at a few
    things. Look at the mainspring housing (pic-6) There is a slot in the top
    with a spring and plunger in it. The hammer strut will be guided into that
    slot as you install the mainspring housing. (pic-7) look at pic 7, the
    hammer strut is on the bottom of the hammer and moves freely back and forth.
    Look at your frame and find the hammer strut, notice its movement as you
    tilt the frame back and forth. Notice where the hammer strut is in relation
    to the frame, you will need to remember this when reassembling your pistol.

    Step 8 Reassemble your Pistol
    The first step is to insert the bolt back into the receiver, but before you
    do this, rub a light coating of oil over the outside of the bolt. Be sure
    the bolt slides in freely and goes in all the way to the face of the barrel.


    Step 9 Install Receiver
    Now the receiver is ready to be installed onto the frame. Place the receiver
    on top of the frame and slide it from front to back onto the frame. Again,
    if your frame/receiver fit is tight, you may have to tap the rear of the
    frame to get it fully seated.

    Step 10 Install the Mainspring housing
    This is the part most people have a hard time with. Just be patient and
    follow my directions and it will be easy. The first thing to do is the hold
    your pistol by the barrel with the barrel facing down. You are holding it
    this way so that the hammer strut is resting against the frame of the gun
    and is out of the way of the mainspring housing (pic-8) Now guide the
    mainspring housing into the frame all the way until you can see the end of
    the pin sticking out of the top of the receiver. (pic-9) and (pic-10) Now it
    is time to hold the gun so the barrel is pointing at the sky. The reason for
    this is that the hammer strut will now be resting against the mainspring
    housing so it will slide into the slot when you close the mainspring
    housing. (pic-11) The next trick is to place one of your fingers on the
    trigger and hold it back all the way, the reason for doing this is that if
    the hammer is cocked, the mainspring housing will be forced back out be the
    hammer spur as you try to close it. With the trigger depressed, the hammer
    will uncock and the mainspring housing will go in freely. Now close the
    mainspring housing into the frame and look at it. Does it sit flush with the
    frame? If so pull it back out and try again. It should stick out about a
    quarter inch that how you can tell if the hammer strut is in the notch on
    the mainspring housing and that it has tension on it.(pic-12) Is yours
    sticking out a quarter inch? Yes? Very good, you got it on the first try.
    Now simply close the mainspring housing latch and your done!!!

    Step 11 Final Inspection
    Now comes the moment of truth, pull back the bolt. Does it come back all the
    way? If it does the gun is assembled correctly. If you try to pull back the
    bolt and it only goes back an inch or so, that means that the hammer spur is
    not in the slot on the mainspring housing. Don't be discouraged, all you
    have to do is open the latch and try to guide it in again. With a little
    practice you'll be a pro at it. I also do a routine check of the functioning
    of the pistol after its back together. Pull back the bolt so the pistol is
    cocked. Now put the safety on and pull the trigger to make sure it works.
    Then take the safety off and pull the trigger to make sure it is moving
    freely and the hammer releases. One last check I do is to put an empty
    magazine into the pistol and pull back the bolt to make sure the bolt stop
    moves freely and the bolt locks open. Now you're ready to go to the range
    and test out your nice clean pistol. When you get home your pistol will be
    dirty again and you can start all over. Remember, practice makes perfect.
    Last edited by QKShooter; September 11th, 2005 at 09:02 PM.
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  4. #3
    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    after the first 6-7 time it comes off easy after that rubber mallet works the best the first time

  5. #4
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    Kudos QK - I was about to try and come to rescue - hopefully you have done just that.

    The worst part for me has always been the absolute final stage, making sure that strut is back in place.

    Best advice I give is NEVER use extreme force - just persevere and hold gun up and at an angle so all goes into place before closing the lever up.

    It does get easier after first coupla tries Jim
    Chris - P95
    NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member.

    "To own a gun and assume that you are armed
    is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."


    http://www.rkba-2a.com/ - a portal for 2A links, articles and some videos.

  6. #5
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    Array QKShooter's Avatar
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    He Could Just Buy The Video

    Warning on reassembly
    If that strut is not in the right place the pistol WILL go back together again but, the bolt will not move rearward and another disassembly will be dang near impossible for you to fix it without a gunsmith to help you out.

    BTW I did find a page for Mark III 22/45 Takedown but, something is wrong with the site. It keep jamming my 'puter when I try to select all & copy the text.
    And when I try to link to the page it shows as a dead link on the forum. Very strange.
    Last edited by QKShooter; September 11th, 2005 at 09:14 PM.

  7. #6
    Senior Member Array CombatEffective's Avatar
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    been there

    I had a terrible time with mine the first time I took it apart, but once I figured it ll out it isn't that big of a deal anymore.
    Shooters' Legacy

    Special sections for S&W and Ruger

  8. #7
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    firefighter - try looking here

    Go to this web page:
    RUGER - Click Here

    Then click on FORUM in the top left block.

    Then use the search block & search:

    Disassembly

    Reassembly

    Take Down

    Takedown

    &

    22/45

    I think you'll find some good help there.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  9. #8
    Senior Member Array firefighter4884's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the help guys,

    Managed to get it apart using the rubber handle of an hold hammer instead of a rubber mallet (not the best, but it did work, and I had it here)...

    Got the gun all cleaned and lubed and ready to go, because tomorrow, it's off to take some other new person to the range :). I'm gonna try and average at least 2 people per week. We'll see, after Iget my job and stuff how much time I have available.

    --Jim
    Firefighter / EMT - Always Ready. Ever Willing.

    ~Never do anything that you don't want to have to explain to the paramedics...~

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