The P3AT book says not to dry fire but...(Also henry survival rifle)

This is a discussion on The P3AT book says not to dry fire but...(Also henry survival rifle) within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I'm the proud new owner of a P3AT and a Henry Survival rifle (.22 LR). Anyhow, the kel-tec book says not to dry-fire, but as ...

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Thread: The P3AT book says not to dry fire but...(Also henry survival rifle)

  1. #1
    VIP Member Array Cupcake's Avatar
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    The P3AT book says not to dry fire but...(Also henry survival rifle)

    I'm the proud new owner of a P3AT and a Henry Survival rifle (.22 LR). Anyhow, the kel-tec book says not to dry-fire, but as you fellow kel-tecians know the P3AT doesn't have a slide lock, and it's real easy to lose track when shooting. So, I end up dry-firing at the end of most mags. Same boat with the henry, no slide lock or warning when out of ammo. (book doesn't actually say it's a no-no, but dry firing a .22LR pistol I have just a couple times dimpled the breech and a round wouldn't feed until I did some filing).

    How big a deal is this with these guns?
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    Array MattInFla's Avatar
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    With a rimfire, fry firing is a no-no (as you found out).

    I can't see it being that big a deal with a centerfire.

    Matt
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    VIP Member Array cvhoss's Avatar
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    Not sure if it's really a problem, but when I've taken my P3AT on a couple of extended range sessions, I load a snap cap as the first round in - last round out of each magazine. That way, the round that goes "click" is not on an empty chamber. You should be able to do the same with your Henry.
    Hoss
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    VIP Member Array Cupcake's Avatar
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    That's very clever, Hoss. I'll have to get me some of those. (do they make them for .22?)
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    (do they make them for .22?)
    Yes they do - but those I had did not last too long before they degraded - but they do work. I think mine are just orange high-density polyethylene.

    Even on my 22/45 and Marlin I am always reluctant to dry fire much - altho it would seem the Ruger maybe stops the FP short of impacting the breech face hard - not sure.

    The ''peening'' potential tho always concerns me and so rimfire dry fire is something I avoid. Must say - despite many makers these days saying it's OK . I prefer snap caps and/or .... in my case spare the carry 226 and dryfire the 228 ... as so similar.

    I have not heard yet - or forget - quite why the KT pocket semi's suffer from dry fire ... cast FP maybe?
    Chris - P95
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    Distinguished Member Array Ghettokracker71's Avatar
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    Yeah I accidently dry-fired my p3at about 10 times,...before realizing,no problems to date. (whoo)


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    Senior Member Array Bob O's Avatar
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    Occasionally dry firing the P3-AT won't hurt it, but...

    The same screw on the outside of the slide that retains the extractor spring and extractor also retains the firing pin. There is a flat portion on the firing pin that rides under the screw threads. This is what retains the pin.

    When you dry fire and there is no round or snap cap in the chamber the firing pin moves too far forward and strikes the threads on the retaining screw. If this happens too many times, eventually it will knock of the threads completely, and the firing pin will be allowed to exit the rear of the slide under the force of the firing pin spring and head right for your eye protection.

    Bobo
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    VIP Member Array obxned's Avatar
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    With the P3AT, there is a lot of difference between regular dry firing and occasionally dropping the hammer on an empty chamber when you thought there was one more round ready to go. Unless you are in the habit of training at home by dry firing it, I wouldn’t be too worried.

    With any .22, it is just plain wrong.
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    Senior Member Array rhinokrk's Avatar
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    The reason KT says no dry-fire is, it will deform the firing fin retaining screw. I did some relatively heavy dry firing with my first P3AT (own 2) when I tried removing the fpr screw I had to drill completely through the screw and use an easy out to pull it. I still shoot on an empty chamber at the range, with minimal effect on the screw. I asked KT for 5 extra and they sent them to me free of charge. Every time I remove the fp I check out the screw (I do a full clean after 100 rnds), once I see/feel threads are good and buggered I toss it. Also if you remove it, when you put it back in lightly snug it and back it up about a 1/4 turn or it will bind the fp. Don't forget the loc-tight.

    Keep her lubed, lock that wrist, and enjoy your new true pocket pistol. :)
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    Member Array skippythenurse's Avatar
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    I was talking to a friend who works at my local gun shop. He got a message from his boss concerning their shipment of the new Ruger LCP. The boss said the same thing, "The Ruger LCP is not to be dry fired by the customer". Interesting.

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    Senior Member Array rhinokrk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skippythenurse View Post
    I was talking to a friend who works at my local gun shop. He got a message from his boss concerning their shipment of the new Ruger LCP. The boss said the same thing, "The Ruger LCP is not to be dry fired by the customer". Interesting.
    Same system, no surprise there.
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    VIP Member Array Cupcake's Avatar
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    Thank you for the education, folks. FYI, I emailed Henry and they claim that dry fring the Survival rifle is OK. I think I'll still do snap caps at the range, though, but at least I don't have to sweat the occasional "oops."
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    VIP Member Array frankmako's Avatar
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    occasionally dry firing the p3at won't hurt it. the reason the ruger states the same as the kel tec,,,, well we all can see..
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