i have a new kimber custom II, already polished ramp, barrel, and all internals gone though to deburr, the quality is exceptional even with cast parts, that will go soon. trigger is lighted to around 1.5-2 lbs and smoothed.
i went to the store to look at the taurus as i am a taurus fan, pt1911 in blue for 530$, nice gun however closely looking no riflings in the barrel!
dissapointed i told the owner i wanted to look at something else. he said take a look at Kimber, i said too expensive for my budget.. he then showed me a Kimber for 660$, and i was sold on that. 50 yd accuracy is superb 2-3 in. groups. very nice:image035:
i want to know what parts should i upgrade in such a fine weapon? i am going to get rosewood grips, and looking at a tool steel sheer, but what else and from whom do i buy these parts?
1911 the finest weapon in my book, if i would have bought this first i wouldn't have my others, i would have all 1911 in every size.
my grandpa used to say..."if it ain't broke....don't fix it"
I own 3 kimbers as well as other 1911's...if they don't run, cycle, or have a trigger you don't like...then do something...but if they do....then listen to g-pa
feed them lots of ammo, and oil, and have fun...kimber is a quality firearm.
Are you sure of this trigger pull? The normal pull on most 1911s is in the 4 to 6 pound range, I believe. A trigger of 1.5 to 2.0 lbs pull seems very light to me.
Originally Posted by 45disco
Agreed...that's far too light for a carry self-defense gun. Great for competition, though.
Originally Posted by pogo2
Are you sure there were no rifleings in the barrel of the Taurus, they should have six grooves with twist of 1" in 20"? did you point it out to the salesman?
There is no rifling in any 1911 barrel. It's "landing". Wide, flat grooves, rather than V-cut lines. If that Taurus had nothing at all, that means it missed a fairly important stage of the manufacturing process. It's down-right dangerous.
As far as your Kimber, gut the thing. I like trigger components from either EGW, or Cylinder and Slide. EGW is pretty much one-stop-shopping for quality parts. Only thing I would keep, long term, would be frame, MSH, slide and barrel.
Who will be performing the work?
I seriously doubt that your trigger is 1-1/2 to 2lbs. That would take a fairly competent pistolsmith to do safely and reliably and it would be considered a competition only gun. It may feel very light and crisp, but only a trigger guage will tell you what the poundage really is. Spring guages are very inaccurate at these low weights, so use an electronic model.
The only thing I have had to do to my 1911's is change out the grips! :wink:
It may be just my opinion but... 1.5 to 2.0 lb trigger on a defensive single action semi-auto is too darn light! :gah:
I'm another vote for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"! :yup:
Originally Posted by Ping Ping
Yes, good suggestions... keep the good parts, the slide... frame...barrel and the cheaply made plastic mainspring housing that comes stock on just about every kimber... :blink:
Please, know what you are talking about (Yes, this means the stock firearm in question as well) if you are going to spout out suggestions.
Just my opinion but I would get rid of the MSH and get a steel one. Also, make sure you put a good coating of lube on the barrel since the only Kimber pistols that come with stainless barrels are the custom shop guns. The Custom II (And just about every other Kimber) comes with a carbon steel barrel and it will rust faster than stainless steel if left unprotected.
i did point out the smooth bore to the shop and they said i was right and were going to send it back, as far as the trigger goes, it is were i like it, half of the stock, which according to kimber is 4-5, so i calculate 2-2.5. (little over excitement) i will have to test it though to be sure, as i have done lots of rifles. and yes the distance was 50yds +
have the target if you want it, shot low and left consistant, but groups none the less.
The trigger is way to light for carry. If that's a consistant 50 yard group, it's outstanding. I'd get rid of everything except for the slide and frame. I never would trust MIM and plastic with my life if the Kimber name is on it since I've seen and heard of too many failures.
Sorry but, you cannot get a 1.5 - 2# trigger pull on a MIMber...I mean Kimber using the stock sear, hammer, disconnect and other factory internal parts.
It just cannot be safely done - if at all. Just my 2 cents worth on that.
Both my Kimbers are at 4.5#'s...
OMO, but at 1.5#'s you're going to have some surprise double taps...:gah:
double tap, almost full auto.
i should have told everyone that since i am replacing most of the internals, i.e. sear, hammer,ect with cnc machined parts of higher quality . i thought i would see how light i could get the trigger and i got it down safely to around 3.5 on the heavy side but without other modifications, less than that is you get bust like actions very similar to full auto glocks. risking damage to the gun i am not messing with it till i get my new parts. for those wandering i have gunsmithing experience, however only with rifles (taught by uncle,(made(modified) sniper rifles for military in the 60's&70's) , second pistol i have played with, other than cleaning up part. plus we have a very good pistol smith just around the corner.
The only things I changed on my Kimber were the grips and the mainspring housing. I changed to G10 grips from Mil-Tac and replaced the polymer mainspring housing with a checkered steel mainspring housing/magwell from EGW. As far as the trigger pull, It's a nice crisp 4 lbs with no creep.