Check the chamber see if its rough or the bolt face
This is a discussion on Argh!!! My 1911 is STILL giving me problems within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Check the chamber see if its rough or the bolt face...
Check the chamber see if its rough or the bolt face
Yup the rail are rough, the first 200 rds had black parkerized metal flakes all over my right forearm. Its flaking less now. I was thinking of getting FLITZ yesterday. Im probably going to do that. Ive never heard of ROBAR NP3 finish, or ROGARD. My smith will be at the shop tomorrow Ill ask him about it. It sounds cool to me .Maybe it's a rough spot on the slide rails? Think about having them polished with FLITZ. Or better yet, get a ROBAR NP3 finish done on the interior and a ROGARD exterior. The NP3 will peel off molecules as the two surfaces bear against each other.
The chamber is smooth, like glass, thanks to my smith. Ill check the bolt face when I clean the gun tomorrow.
The problem is less frequent as I shoot, so Id bet it is just breaking in. I didn't re-lube during the session, so I think that has alot to do with things. These 1911 do love lube!, and Parkerisation is a oil sponge. Still polishing her up cant hurt.
Again, tons of thanks guys!
Check out Robbie Barkman's site completely.Originally Posted by gregarat
He ain't cheap but he's definitely worth every dime!
Former Army Infantry Captain; 25 yrs as an NRA Certified Instructor; Avid practitioner of the martial art: KLIK-PAO.
Take Flitz or else jb bore pastes and if bore paste mix little oil in pull barrel recoil spring and slide stop..
coat slide rails with the flitz or the jb slurry mix then sit in front of tv and hand cycle 200-400 time till its smooth like glass clean reoil put back together and shoot
Can also put a little on the disconnector channel
Something else that will smooth the rails nicely, valve lapping compound and it comes in several "grits."
"The pistol, learn it well, carry it always ..." ~ Jeff Cooper
"Terrorists: They hated you yesterday, they hate you today, and they will hate you tomorrow. End the cycle of hatred, donít give them a tomorrow."
Wow! I guess the Robar finish isn't cheap. At least $210 is abit much for my budget.
I do have some JB paste. I think I may go with that approach. Unless FLITZ works better? What kind of oil should I use, and what is the mixture ratio? I even still have Kroil, thanks to my varmint hunting days .
kroil and Jb is fine you want tomix it to where it thins it down some but doesnt run off the gun
I went by my smiths place today, and showed him my 1911. He thought the slide was broke-in and smooth. He did say that the recoil spring was abit light. I replied that last time he saw it he thought it was abit heavy. He didn't recall saying that. He then showed me where the bullet wasn't feeding right, and suggested that I get a 18.5Lb Wolff recoil spring. After replacing the spring he fired one round, twice, and then a full clip. It worked fine. But I hardly call that a real test .
Ill go to the range soon, to see if the fix actually works.
BTW: I called Springfield customer service. They insisted that it was a bad factory mag, and that the Wilson mag and the Wilson mag is no good. I have a strong feeling that Springfield customer service phone operators know what there talking about.
18.5 is still a heavy spring 16 is the normal weight
Yeah, thats what I thought. Pulse the spent casings really shoot far. The slide did lock back during the little test. Ive been researching this on the net, and found that many people do switch to 18.5 springs like (in m1911.org). I still have the old spring in case it doesn't solve anything when I go to the range.
Last edited by gregarat; October 25th, 2005 at 12:53 AM.
I just did some more searching on 1911forum. It seems that recoil springs with yellow paint on one end is in the 14Lb range. Guess what my factory spring has on one end...First Im going to call Springfield armory, and try to get in contact with an actual smith there, and find out if there is any truth to this. If so Im going to make another trip to my smith. This time Im going to see if I can exchange my 18.5 Wolff spring, for a 16Lb Wolff spring. If this doesn't work Im going to send the stinking thing to Springfield. This is frustrating the heck out of me!
Does any6 other Springfield G.I. owners have yellow paint on the end of your Recoil spring?
yes and its a 14 pound spring had one in my 5" light weight from the Factory changed it out right away
Ah Ha!! I know that there was something wierd.
Thank Bud. Your the man!
Good Morning Gregarat-
Time for me to chime in again. Like I said before my 1911 is a Springfield Government Model, and yes, the recoil spring was yellow on one end. Five thousand rounds and plenty of dry firing later it's still in there. I've only had a few FTF's and FTE's and I'm pretty sure that I can attribute them all to poor ammo.
Quick question, how often should recoil springs be changed?
Another embaressing story- when I first got my 1911 I thought the yellow paint was extremely thick, extremely tough dried out lube. So I proceeded to scrape and clean it all off. I had never realized it was paint until now.
Well I got fed up with the whole thing, and decided to send it back to Springfield, and let the warranty take care of it. I spent too much time, money and stress on the gun. Ive heard mixed reviews about their customer service. I just hope they will do me right.