Custom 1911 from Fusion

[Kerbouchard]

Well, I've decided I wanted/needed another 1911 and decided I would have one built. There are so many options that I am not exactly sure where to start or which brands of parts are better than the others.

Anyway, here is the parts list that they have recommended based on what I told them I want(accurate, carry, possibly IDPA later on).

Just wondering if there are any changes you guys can think of, or if you think I should start over completely. Thanks in advance.

Overview: 1911 custom built Pro-Series 2-Tone 45ACP, Stainless Checkered Frame and Ion Bond Slide, 5 inch

Item Description

1) 1911 Custom Stainless Steel frame with Front strap checkering, Beveled/chamfered magazine well,
.250 radius cut for high ride grip safety

2) 5 inch slide with front & rear cocking serrations with Bomar sight cuts with Bomar Adjustable rear and
front Fiber optic Red Dovetail

3) Custom Trigger group, with trigger job to 4.0- 4.5 lb with clean let-off.
TYPE of HAMMER: Pro-Series "Pro-Comm"
TYPE of TRIGGER: Pro-series ADJ LT Black Carbon Fiber

4) 416 SS, Match 45acp Barrel with fitted link and bushing

5) Small parts: All Small parts Stainless Steel,
a) High ride beavertail,
b) Checkered Mainspring housing Mag Well,
c) Extended Ambi thumb safety,
d) Serrated Sure Lock slide stop,
e) 2pcs FL guide rod recoil system
f) Combat slightly extended mag release
Add Mag Well mainspring Housing $65.00

6) Grips - AAA+ Exhibition Smooth satin Red Cocobola, Mag Well Cut With Torx screws

7) Frame Matte finish Stainless & Slide with INO Bond Finish $ 85.00 Brushed Stainless steel Accent
small parts

8) Complete build cost $ 1 ,295.00

9) (1x) Magazines 45 acp acp with base pad, fitted and function tested
(X) Additional Mags $19.95 with base pads if you want them.

10) Shipping to FFL of customers choice $30.00

11) Extra Spring Kit, Free, No - Charge

Balance Due $ 1 ,475.00

[DefensiveCarry.com]

[deadeye72]

Sounds nice. Can't wait for pics.

[QKShooter]

I'd absolutely forget the guide rod and the ambidextrous (unless you're a southpaw) or extended thumb safety (two totally worthless modifications) and go with the new Wilson magazines.
Then for carry...request whatever trigger pull weight you want with minimum creep and overtravel and forget the adjustable trigger.
Because......chances are you're never going to adjust it anyway if your trigger already comes to you crisp and perfect.


Everything else sounds great and Fusion has top quality parts.

[Kerbouchard]

I'd absolutely forget the guide rod and the ambidextrous (unless you're a southpaw) or extended thumb safety (two totally worthless modifications) and go with the new Wilson magazines.
Then for carry...request whatever trigger pull weight you want with minimum creep and overtravel and forget the adjustable trigger.
Because......chances are you're never going to adjust it anyway if your trigger already comes to you crisp and perfect.

Everything else sounds great and Fusion has top quality parts.

Why forget the guide rod?

I understand it wasn't part of the 'original' design, but a guide rod decreases wear on the the rails which helps the gun stay tighter, right?

[QKShooter]

"but a guide rod decreases wear on the the rails which helps the gun stay tighter, right?"

Nope...it does not.
It does nothing but add some weight out front but, that is not worth the extra hassle in field stripping with a "one piece" - or the possibility of a two piece coming apart at the wrong time and causing a catastrophic failure.

The guide rod is an accessory racket. It is just "do nothing" parts on a 1911 format handgun.

[Kerbouchard]

but a guide rod decreases wear on the the rails which helps the gun stay tighter, right?

No...it does not.

Well, for somebody who is not an armorer or weaponssmith all of the options are daunting. The list is something they provided, and that's why I wanted to bounce it off of you guys.

I searched for guide rods after your first post, but the only thing I could find is some rants on how they are bad and how they make it harderer to take down, and some rants about how they are good.

My Kimber has a full length Guide Rod and I haven't had any problems with it...

I'm just wondering why I should have them take it off the quote.

[QKShooter]

No, I wouldn't if you have one installed and it's not causing you any problems then leave it in.
I sure would not pay hard earned money to add one though.

More later on guide rods. I have to jump off like right now.

[stanislaskasava]

No, I wouldn't if you have one installed and it's not causing you any problems then leave it in.
I sure would not pay hard earned money to add one though.

More later on guide rods. I have to jump off like right now.

Does the original style guide rod save time when field stripping? I had a GCNM and an Ithaca and I don't remember...

I had an S&W and have a Dan Wesson with FLGRs (one piece style). Push down plug, rotate bushing, plug comes out (with spring), rotate bushing, bushing comes out. Remove slide stop, slide, etc.

Or you can just pull the slide stop from the get-go (I never do).

[Kerbouchard]

The guide rod doesn't appear to be adding any extra cost, and to me the price seems very reasonable. I just don't know what half the stuff is.

I didn't even notice it said it was an adjustable trigger until QK pointed it out.

Thanks for the advice so far, and keep it coming. I know some of you guys could build a 1911 in your sleep with paperclips and chewing gum, so I figured this was the best place to ask.

I'm probably going to order it tomorrow afternoon, and then begin the long wait.

[QKShooter]

I sure don't want to come across as the final word on guide rods.
I think (so far) we have had 3 range firearm stoppages due to 2 piece guide rods coming apart.

One of the original reasons for the inclusion of a guide rod was that it prevents the recoil spring from rubbing in the frame and on the slide and those areas were sometimes machined very rough on Colt factory pistols so maybe there was some useful purpose back then
But, the custom frames and slides are now so nicely and smoothly machined that is no longer a valid reason.
That is beside the fact that recoil springs are cheap and they should be changed out long before the actual recoil spring itself starts to show any metal wear marks.
Since the recoil spring is hardened to a greater degree than both the frame and slide anyway.
If the harder spring is showing abraded wear then it needed to be changed anyway long before that.

The very first FLGR that I remember was a skinny thing had a Nylon insert tightly sandwiched between two end plates supposedly to soften the impact of the rearward slide travel and work as a "shock absorber" to help prevent frame "battering" - it worked OK for about the first 500 rounds.

Some of the very early custom 1911 "smiths" started lathe turning extensions and brazing them to the standard Colt recoil spring guide and drilling the stock recoil spring plug. Why? Who knows.
A gimmick maybe since every custom gunsmith need their own Custom Colt modification.

Then some of the duel (spring inside spring) recoil spring setups like the Detonics needed one I guess. That's logical. And Detonics really did work out the bugs on their recoil spring system for CHOPPED/shortened .45s.
Their recoil spring set up made sense but, they had no business or marketing sense.

Then the FLGR became one of those "features" that all the custom gun buyers wanted but, nobody really knew why.
It just seemed like it would make sense for some "feel good" reason since they were so PRECISION well made and fit...everybody had the impression that they really should serve some useful sort of purpose.

So...(of course) then the Colt 1911 Clone gun makers started including them as standard "semi-custom additions and optional add ons" because "Why Not?" - people wanted them.

Also some Recoil Reduction inventors needed a FLGR in order to act as part of their recoil reduction system.
Like the early hydraulic piston combination felt recoil reducer/shock absorber and the Sprinco.
At least the Sprinco made sense because the secondary spring needed something to sit on.

The Haarts Mercury Filled recoil reducer needed a hollow Stainless "recoil spring guide" in order to have something to fill with liquid Mercury and Stainless ball bearings and they worked to reduce muzzle flip but, that was (at least) a reason for having one...since IT actually accomplished something. They are no longer being made though since the inventor passed away.

Then the Solid Carbide recoil spring guides DID add weight out front since the Carbide was pretty dense and heavy stuff...so if you wanted more physical weight to reduce "muzzle flip" then that was a valid reason to have one but, it didn't reduce flip by very much. Maybe by 10 percent.

Moving up to the present day the FLGRs are now so "established" that everybody will defend them because (after all) why would they exist at all IF they didn't do something fantastic.
Well, that doesn't alter the reality that they don't...on a 1911.

They are just basically something that custom gun makers and custom smiths can use their amazing lathes and CNC machinery to make and sell - so why not make them and take the extra $35 bucks?

The only other FLGR that makes sense is the LaserMax since the FLGR is the Laser Unit and so that is a "do something" reason for it. Since without the FLGR there would be nothing to put the Laser into. if you wanted a "built in" Laser.

So...there you have it. 1911 Guide Rod 101 class is over.

[cdwolf]

QK, you da man!

[Catalina]

If you are looking to save nickels and dimes maybe delete the front strap checkering, and front slide serrations.

No ambi safety if you are a righty.

Just get standard 'ol grips. You can customize later.

I would make the mainspring housing an Ed Brown "Bobtail".

Get at lease 3 tested magazines.

Other than that - awesome.

[Kerbouchard]

Okay, so aside from it having a few extra features that are not absolutely necessary, everything looks good?

As far as the Bobtail, I thought about it...I just don't like them. No real rhyme or reason. It just doesn't look right to me.

[WilliamWallace]

what's your wait time on the order?

it looks like that will be a very nice carry piece... where's my credit card again?

[Janq]

Personally I'd keep the ambi safety, and not just because I am ambi and shoot left as well as right handed.
For carry purposes if you find your strong finger, hand, or arm injured or wrist disabled then being able to easily and functionally transition to your off hand is a wonderful skill set and capability to have on tap. Now is it impossible to work a righty only 1911 safety with ones left hand? Nope. But it does take an effort.

Also if you choose to run it in IDPA down the road there will be stages where you will be required to shoot off hand including in the Qualifier too.
Again having an ambi safety can make for increased smoothness and ease in the sense of functional convenience.

I run ambi safeties on two of my 3 1911s of which I carry them all.
Only reason the one doesn't have one is because it came stock for righties only and I've just not spent the time or dime to fix that. Is it critical, nope. I'm wearing it right now as I type this. But it would be nice.

One last commentary.
Considering this willbe a carry gun have you thought about running a Commander slide (4.25") on an Officer length frame?
Quick to draw, tight very easy to conceal packaging, lighter in weight, and just as combat accurate as a full size 5""1911 without the penalties of such.

$0.02 street

- Janq