S&W Model 642--trigger job

S&W Model 642--trigger job

This is a discussion on S&W Model 642--trigger job within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Well I finally broke down and bought one but the trigger is way stiff. what would someone suggest I do to to have the trigger ...

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Thread: S&W Model 642--trigger job

  1. #1
    Member Array denverbear's Avatar
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    S&W Model 642--trigger job

    Well I finally broke down and bought one but the trigger is way stiff.
    what would someone suggest I do to to have the trigger pull easier?
    what kind of trigger job should I be looking to get for this and what apprx. should something like this cost?
    Also since the front site is stock, and for my eyes is there anything I can do to improve the sighting and allowing me to site down the barrel and make the front site stick out more?
    Glock 23
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Array bps3040's Avatar
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    Get some snap caps and dry fire about 2000 times......helps you learn the trigger and smooths it out. Then go shoot it, you will shoot a lot better. I thought about a trigger job, but after doing the above and cleaning it out. It smoothed it way down. I carry it everyday.
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  3. #3
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    Array QKShooter's Avatar
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    You can start by buying a Wolff replacement spring kit. That is EASY and it always helps some.
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  4. #4
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    As mentioned above use it...to loosen it. My wife's 637 has eased up quite nicely, without doing anything but working the trigger.
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  5. #5
    VIP Member Array sass20485's Avatar
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    trigger pull

    Two of the simplest things have been previously suggested, swap the spring for a lighter weight Wolff spring, and dry firing will help work in the gun. If you are handy, you disassemble and lightly polish the internals, eliminating any roughness were parts rub together
    ( the dry firing helps do that ), BUT leave the sear alone, unless you really know what you are doing.

  6. #6
    Member Array PeterCartwright's Avatar
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    I haven't yet gotten on the "reduced power springs" band wagon. I'm sure there's something to it, or it wouldn't be so popular. On the other hand, I've purchased guns that were "worked over" with weaker springs, resulting in failures to fire. Above all, these guns must go "bang" when we pull the trigger.

    My 642 has a stiff trigger, too, but since I use a "crush grip", I guess I don't notice it so much. The trigger is predictable and breaks nicely in the trigger stroke. That's the way my gun came right out of the box. It's not hard to hit targets at defensive ranges. I don't think I've put more than 250 rounds through my gun. I suspect the trigger action will smooth even more with more use.

    As far as helping the sights work better, this cheapskate simply used bright paint to make the front sight stand out against the notch in the alloy frame. Helps me quite a bit.

    You didn't ask about carry loads, but I'll volunteer my recent positive experience with Speer's new "short barrel" ammo for .38 spl. I was delighted to discover that the 135 gr. +P Gold Dot shoots very close to point of aim in my 642.

  7. #7
    VIP Member Array JerryM's Avatar
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    I don't notice that my 642 has a stiff trigger. I think the advice offered is good. I would stay away from reduced power springs. Also sometimes trigger jobs sometimes result in too light springs and misfires.

    I personally had that happen a couple of years after a trigger job by "one of the best."

    Regards,
    Jerry

  8. #8
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    For your front sight- mix a dab of Devcon 2 ton epoxy and 2-3 drops of testors white or orange gloss paint, and apply with a toothpick.

    I prefer a "real" action job, disassembly, stoning the trigger transfer bar, hammer & sear. The Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual is a great resource.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Array ICTsnub's Avatar
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    Wolf springs and clean up the rebound slide thingy.

  10. #10
    Mo
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    I'll repost an answer I've given in the past, this has been covered many times.

    I've switched out the springs on a 637 (hammered version of the 642) and it rocks. The pull is MUCH lighter and smoother than factory. It also costs about $12.

    Buy a Wolff reduced power spring set, remove your sideplate, take out the mainspring support rod (whatever it's called, the piece of flat stock that's in the middle of the mainspring), remove the rebound slide and remove the trigger return spring, replace with the medium trigger return spring in the Wolff kit and replace the rebound slide, thread the Wolff mainspring onto the mainspring support and replace, degrease the internals of the action with an aluminum-safe degreaser (not Instaclean or brake cleaner or anything like that) and replace the sideplate.

    Dry-fire the gun about 200 times bone-dry to smooth it out even more, then drop a bit of oil into the action around the hammer. Marvel at your awesome new trigger pull. Marvel even more that it cost you $12.

    Caveat: Make sure you go practice with your carry ammo before carrying it again. I haven't had a single misfire/light primer strike with any of the ammo I've tried or carry, but you need to make sure it works for you. Most people get into trouble by trying to save $12 by cutting coils from the original mainspring instead of replacing it with a lighter, full-length mainspring. Good luck!

    Now, if you find a good way to make the sight more visible, let me know! I've just painted the top 1/8" of the serrated face of the front site with red enamel.

  11. #11
    VIP Member Array JerryM's Avatar
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    "Now, if you find a good way to make the sight more visible, let me know! I've just painted the top 1/8" of the serrated face of the front site with red enamel."

    I paint mine with blaze orange made for fishing jigs.
    I wish I had a night sight on my M 60 3", but for now I also have painted it blaze orange.

    Regards,
    Jerry

  12. #12
    Member Array PShooter's Avatar
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    I had an excellent gunsmith do a trigger job on my 340PD years ago and man it shoots sweet! One smooth and accurate little snubby.
    Money well spent having a pro do it.

  13. #13
    VIP Member Array JimmyC4's Avatar
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    Well, for about $45 I had a local gunsmith do the work--it lightened up some, but smoothed out greatly. I say, "Hire the professional."
    "It's a big gun when I carry it, it is also a big gun when I take it out” – Clint Smith

  14. #14
    VIP Member Array Superhouse 15's Avatar
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    Trigger

    For sure have a gunsmith familiar with the design do any trigger work more advanced than swapping out the stock springs for Wolff. As for the front sight, The best permanant way is to cut a dovetail and install an acrylic front sight insert:
    FRONT SIGHT INSERT KIT at Brownells

    They have good colored pigment, but I found a bunch more colors at a local craft store (and going out of business at 40% off!) Any powdered pigment will work. Have had good luck with bright green, jade green, gold, orange, and "blue red" that is a kind of pink/purple mix. The triggerjob should be around $40, between $15 and $20 for a sight, although you could do that job yourself if you have the tools.

  15. #15
    Distinguished Member Array Gideon's Avatar
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    If you can afford it, I believe having a professional smith do a trigger job on your gun will make a world of difference. Gemini Customs does it but they charge like $135, but you get the works (for a trigger job anyway).

    I think a J frame is a perfect workhorse and I want to get a trigger job as soon as I can afford it.

    I've used reduced springs in my SP101 and it did make a significant difference but it's still not the same as a smith can do. If you're fortunate enought to have a good smith nearby then you may be able to get it done cheaper.

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