Limp Wristing a Semi?

Limp Wristing a Semi?

This is a discussion on Limp Wristing a Semi? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Are all Semi's prone to limp wristing? Or is this just a Glock issue? I had at one time a G20 & 21 and both ...

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Thread: Limp Wristing a Semi?

  1. #1
    Member Array Cody's Avatar
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    Limp Wristing a Semi?

    Are all Semi's prone to limp wristing? Or is this just a Glock issue? I had at one time a G20 & 21 and both were prone to jams if I didn't have a firm shooting grip. Wondering if HK particularly the P2000 is also prone to this?

    Thanks,
    Dave


  2. #2
    Senior Member Array Sarge45's Avatar
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    I'll try and answer you this. They all require a certain amount of resistance at the frame in order for the slide to recoil far enough back against the spring to cycle the gun. It takes some resistance by the shooter to cause this to happen. How much is determined by several factors such as recoil impulse force, recoil spring strength, etc., etc.

    If there was no resistance at the frame and against the recoil spring, the slide would continue reward until it encountered resistance.

    Most guns are designed to NOT fail due to limp wristing against the average shooters strength.

  3. #3
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    While some semi-autos will operate OK with a limp wrist I think that the functioning ability of most (if not all) semi-automatic handguns increases with a locked wrist and a firm grip.

  4. #4
    Member Array bigiceman's Avatar
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    Had a revolver shooting friend illustrate the ease with which a revolver shooter can "limp writst" an auto.

    The whole goal of a revolver shooter is to allow the wrists to roll and absorb the recoil. If they do this with an auto it doesn't cycle correctly. A weaker recoil spring can make up for someone who is just not physically large enough to hold the pistol firmly, (small framed person).
    But if you are authorized to carry a weapon, and you walk outside without it, just take a deep breath, and say this to yourself...
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    LTC(RET) Dave Grossman

    Revolutionary War Veterans Association Shooter Qualification: Cook

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    VIP Member Array pogo2's Avatar
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    Frame weight is key

    The critical variable in determining whether a semiauto is more or less prone to "limpwristing" is the weight of the frame. This is because heavy frames have more inertia (resistance to being moved) and are more inclined to remain relatively stationary during the slide's recoil.

    So steel frames are the least likely to be "limpwristed", aluminum is next, and polymer is the most likely to be limpwristed. And Glocks have polymer frames.
    Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the Peoples' Liberty's Teeth." - George Washington

  6. #6
    Senior Member Array HK Dan's Avatar
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    Well, "limpwristing" is really more "limp gripping". If you have a moderate grip on the pistol it should work fine. I shoot with my wrists unlocked and just let the thing recoil, it snaps back on target nicely (.15 splits in Bill Drills).

    I would tell you to use moderate grip force and stay loose from your shoulder to your wrist. 60% of your grip should come from the support hand, 40% from the 'strong' hand. Do that and you'll never need to worry about "limpwristing" in any gun.

    Dan
    "What does Marcellus Wallace LOOK like?"

  7. #7
    VIP Member Array friesepferd's Avatar
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    whether your limp wristing will cause a failure depends on a lot of things
    1. how bad ur limp wristing
    2. how hot your ammo is
    3. your extractor
    4. your recoil spring, lube, and other things which keep the slide from going all the way back.

    if i have underloaded ammo and i limp wrist a ton, then my 9mm 3" 1911 will malfunction. but it really takes quite a bit.

    If you have problems with limp wristing I have the following suggestions (I used to have a problem with it)
    1. ride high. your right hand should be as high as possible. if you have something with a 1911 type thumb safety, its easy to do (man i love the 1911). your thumb just rests on top of the safety. on other guns getting a high grip can be a lot harder. especially something lick a glock
    2. left hand twist fwd. this is hard to explain without showing, but your left hand should be angled fwd so that the meat of the lower ligiment is fitted nicely under the top joint of your right thumb. so both thumbs are parallel and pointing fwd. this keeps the gun from going off to one side when you shoot. it should go straight up and down when it recoils
    3. everyone says something differant about grip. 60% this hand, 40% that.. my personal opinion? 200% with both hands when you are doing defensive style shooting. grip it till you are almost shaking. if you have looseness in either hand you will milk it and pull off course. bullseye shooting is a slightly differant story, but i wont get into that.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Array Ragin Cajun's Avatar
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    I think it effects some more then other. I haven't tried it with my G26 but with my M&P40C, I have tried everything I could think of SAFELY to see if it would malfunction and it just ate every bullet without a single feeding or ejection malfuntion.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post
    I think it effects some more then other. I haven't tried it with my G26 but with my M&P40C, I have tried everything I could think of SAFELY to see if it would malfunction and it just ate every bullet without a single feeding or ejection malfuntion.
    +1! I saved and saved for a Colt Defender. Imagine my frustration when I limp wristed all over the place. With some help from DC, I got better but finally decided (also with DC help) that it was not worth the one in ten chance I would limp wrist in a shootout. Sold it and went back to my Steyr.
    "The heart of the wise inclines to the right, but the heart of the fool to the left." Eccl. 10:2

  10. #10
    Senior Member Array fatboy97's Avatar
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    Generally I understand the concept, but I've never experienced it... and have my collection listed below in my signature.
    Be Observant and Be Safe.

    Current: S&W 442, Springfield XD9sc, XDm9, and Glock G26, G19, G23C,
    and SIG P226-40 TT, and Ruger GP-100, and Beretta 92FS
    Former: Taurus 92SS, SIG P220 TT, S&W 360, SIG P239-40, Ruger 22/45 MKII

  11. #11
    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    IMHO its a grip/stance issue . Stand up and support the gun and you wont have a problem . Limp Wristing is pc speak for a weak stance/grip . I have a buddy who " limp wrists " , and he will out work me and you all at the same time building fence , bucking bales , ect.. not only that but when we come in his " partner " will feed us to a level that will put any dallas or denver resteraunt to shame . the " limp wrist " that glock and othe autos may be prone to is an outdated thing . I have seen a 300 lb fella weak wrist an auto and create stopages . Its not bad on the auto , the auto counts that the frame will stay somewhat stable while the slide cycles . many dont understand this , or wont comply with it . However its the RULE . No matter what you might shot , hold the grip ( and thereby frame ) as stable as you can .
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
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  12. #12
    VIP Member Array semperfi.45's Avatar
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    A roll over wrist lock and thumbs forward is the ticket.



    Pic is from FistFire
    Training means learning the rules. Experience means learning the exceptions.

  13. #13
    Member Array Geronimo45's Avatar
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    Not just a Glock issue. I've done it on a Gov't model 1911. Repeatedly.

    Limp wrist or limp grip? I couldn't say... but after I put a more vice-like grip on the gun, it stopped causing me trouble.

    Gun was kinda dry, too... many 'limp wristing' issues might be solved by oil.

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