Is there something wrong with my gun?

Is there something wrong with my gun?

This is a discussion on Is there something wrong with my gun? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I took my colt king cobra to the range today and had a funny thing happen,after about 100 rounds my trigger didn't reset itself all ...

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Array 1911luver's Avatar
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    Is there something wrong with my gun?

    I took my colt king cobra to the range today and had a funny thing happen,after about 100 rounds my trigger didn't reset itself all the way forward it was kinda stuck back. I simply tapped the trigger and it reset and was fine.Now it did this a few times but it also did it while I was dry firing it the other day.

    I did notice that after I lubed the internals it was fine while dry firing practice,but I didn't have any lube with me today to try this again. Is it possible that the insides of the gun just need a good cleaning and lubing? Is there any way I could be causing the problem if I'm not using the trigger right and allowing it to reset properly? If there is something wrong with the gun what could cause this kind of problem? thanks for any help.


  2. #2
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    It's been awhile since i looked at colt revo internals but it sounds like you have a weak or broken trigger return spring
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  3. #3
    Member Array Greg in VA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dukalmighty View Post
    It's been awhile since i looked at colt revo internals but it sounds like you have a weak or broken trigger return spring

    That'd be my guess.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Array 1911luver's Avatar
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    Thanks guys is this a hard part for my gunsmith to replace? Also I checked numrich gunparts and they don't have any trigger return springs for the king cobra,but they have them for the trooper and lawman mark III with these springs also work in the king cobra being its the same action? If not where can I find a trigger return spring for my king cobra?

  5. #5
    Member Array pistola's Avatar
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    Wink Clean and lube

    Yes,1911luver.Sounds like a typical case of dried,gummed up oil and grease. Remove your stocks and soak the revolver in kerosene,gasoline,or other oil displacing solvent,for at least 12 hours.Blow it out,lightly oil it,relace the stocks and you'll be back in service.Let us know................
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  6. #6
    VIP Member Array automatic slim's Avatar
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    Funny you should mention it. I once had a Colt Python that would lock up if I let the trigger out slowly. It, however worked fine if you released it quickly. I took it to a gunsmith and he couldn't figure it out. After about 500 rounds it started working correctly and I never again had any problems with it.
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  7. #7
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    First...I'd buy a large can of spray contact cleaner and really throughly flush out the internals as you might just have some stubborn build up in there.
    Then lube with a CLP type lube and see if that helps.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Array 1911luver's Avatar
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    So automaticslim I guess it could be user induced then maybe it is me letting the trigger out to slowly. Also pistola should I really soak it in gasoline is this safe? Okshooter should I remove the side plate to get at the internals? I tend to think its not a broken or weak trigger return spring for the simple fact that it seems when I llubed it it went away for a bit.

  9. #9
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1911luver View Post
    So automaticslim I guess it could be user induced then maybe it is me letting the trigger out to slowly. Also pistola should I really soak it in gasoline is this safe? Okshooter should I remove the side plate to get at the internals? I tend to think its not a broken or weak trigger return spring for the simple fact that it seems when I llubed it it went away for a bit.
    Maybe it is gunked up you can take the grips and side plate off then use a cleaner/degreaser to shoot in the internals allow to dry then lightly lube contact points replace side plate and see if it fixed it
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  10. #10
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    Well, if you've never had the sideplate off before - grind a screwdriver down to fit the screw heads exactly so that you don't bugger them up.

    If you are hesitant about removing the side plate then don't.
    Just shoot the spray electrical contact cleaner in anywhere you can and throughly flood and flush out the guts.

    Then shake the pistol out and get a real good amount of Break Free in there and then work the action.

    Let the gun stand up overnight so that all of the excess Break free drains out and keep wiping all of that excess CLP off as it continues to leach out of the action.

    It will keep migrating out until only light film remains inside.

    It's a little bit of a pain to keep wiping Break Free off of the gun for a few days but, that is better than you messing up a fine gun if you do not feel confident about popping it apart.

    That should help a great deal if nothing is broken internally.

    Try it as it sure won't hurt anything and can only help.

    DO remove any wood grips though.

  11. #11
    Member Array pistola's Avatar
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    Question Safe

    Quote Originally Posted by 1911luver View Post
    So automaticslim I guess it could be user induced then maybe it is me letting the trigger out to slowly. Also pistola should I really soak it in gasoline is this safe? Okshooter should I remove the side plate to get at the internals? I tend to think its not a broken or weak trigger return spring for the simple fact that it seems when I llubed it it went away for a bit.
    Sure it's safe. Why wouldn't it be? There is nothing but steel,with the exception of a nylon bushing under the cylinder release,which will not be affected. It is a great way to clean and smooth up the action on a used revolver.Just use common sense and don't use it near any source of combustion,such as a gas fired hot water heater or furnace,etc...I would advise not to remove the side plate,unless you are experienced in the task,and then only if you are familiar with Colt internals.
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  12. #12
    Member Array Desperado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pistola View Post
    Sure it's safe. Why wouldn't it be? There is nothing but steel,with the exception of a nylon bushing under the cylinder release,which will not be affected. It is a great way to clean and smooth up the action on a used revolver.Just use common sense and don't use it near any source of combustion,such as a gas fired hot water heater or furnace,etc...I would advise not to remove the side plate,unless you are experienced in the task,and then only if you are familiar with Colt internals.
    Ditto, Pistola's advice.

    If cleaning, lubing doesn't solve the problem, send it back to Colt vs. trying to tear into the gun yourself. Colt tolerances are very touchy.
    I recently acquired a Det. Spec. that was 'out of time'. A local gunsmith had attempted to repair it and failed. I sent it to Colt and they fixed the problem, returning the pistol to me in about a month. The cost was around $50, including shipping.
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  13. #13
    Senior Member Array 1911luver's Avatar
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    Could I use break cleaner on it? I would thing this would degrease it if not I guess I'll just drop it in a pale of gasoline should I let it sit overnight? When I take it out do I just let it drip/air dry then CLP the internals?

  14. #14
    Senior Member Array Warmon's Avatar
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    Soaking in gasoline is not a good idea. Straight kerosene or diesel better / safer, but what I use is Ed's Red for gun baths - a combination or kerosene, automatic transmission fluid, acetone and mineral spirits. The lanolin is optional, but I do use it for its long term protection.

    This is the formula:

    CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

    1 quart Dexron ATF
    1 quart Kerosene
    1 quart Mineral Spirits
    1 quart Acetone
    Optional = 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

    MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

    Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

    Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler [or microwave 10 sec at a time until liquefied], taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix
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  15. #15
    VIP Member Array cphilip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warmon View Post
    Soaking in gasoline is not a good idea. Straight kerosene or diesel better / safer, but what I use is Ed's Red for gun baths - a combination or kerosene, automatic transmission fluid, acetone and mineral spirits. The lanolin is optional, but I do use it for its long term protection.

    This is the formula:
    ditto... this is what I mix up and use all the time for cleaning now days. Great stuff.

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