Glock "carry" trigger (NY1+3.5#)

Glock "carry" trigger (NY1+3.5#)

This is a discussion on Glock "carry" trigger (NY1+3.5#) within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Well, I just got back from the range and I feel that I have to post here: the Glock 'carry' trigger with NY1+3.5# is AMAZING. ...

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Thread: Glock "carry" trigger (NY1+3.5#)

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member Array GWRedDragon's Avatar
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    Glock "carry" trigger (NY1+3.5#)

    Well, I just got back from the range and I feel that I have to post here: the Glock 'carry' trigger with NY1+3.5# is AMAZING. It completely eliminates the huge ramp up in force required right before the trigger break and, at least for me, significantly improved accuracy. Where before I was moderately accurate at best with my G26, now I am shooting holes through other holes at 7yds (not always, of course, I'm no expert ). I HIGHLY recommend trying this trigger configuration to anyone who has a Glock.
    "Trust in God with hand on sword" -Inscription on my family's coat of arms from medieval England
    ---Carry options: G26/MTAC, PF9/MiniTuck, PPK/Pocket, USP40/OWB---
    ---NOTE: I am not an expert. If I ever start acting like a know-it-all, please call me on it immediately. ---


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    I can shoot holes in the center without changing the trigger. I would be very hesitant about lightening the trigger on either my Glocks or Kimbers (already at 4.5#'s) for use as a carry weapon...wait until the adrenaline hits, you might appreciate the extra #...OMO, of course.
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    Distinguished Member Array GWRedDragon's Avatar
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    With the NY1 it isn't a super light pull, it's more that the really hard ramp up at the end is gone. I was pretty much unable to get accurate shots with that trigger.

    When I practice, I keep my finger out of the trigger guard until I am ready to fire. I figure that, with proper drills in this manner, the trigger pull doesn't matter so much...especially if it means I am more likely to hit a BG and not a friendly in a SD situation.
    "Trust in God with hand on sword" -Inscription on my family's coat of arms from medieval England
    ---Carry options: G26/MTAC, PF9/MiniTuck, PPK/Pocket, USP40/OWB---
    ---NOTE: I am not an expert. If I ever start acting like a know-it-all, please call me on it immediately. ---

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    Member Array randyc74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by retsupt99 View Post
    I can shoot holes in the center without changing the trigger. I would be very hesitant about lightening the trigger on either my Glocks or Kimbers (already at 4.5#'s) for use as a carry weapon...wait until the adrenaline hits, you might appreciate the extra #...OMO, of course.
    I have the NY1 trigger spring and 3.5 LWD connector in the duty G23 and my duty/competition G34. I don't believe this set up is any lighter then a stock set up. The NY1 trigger spring is actually rated at 8 lbs. while the sandard spring is rated at 5.5 lbs. It's only smoother with a more positive reset. IMHO, I've never measured it with a trigger pull guage.

    +1 on voting GOP!
    Randy

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    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWRedDragon View Post
    Well, I just got back from the range and I feel that I have to post here: the Glock 'carry' trigger with NY1+3.5# is AMAZING. It completely eliminates the huge ramp up in force required right before the trigger break and, at least for me, significantly improved accuracy. Where before I was moderately accurate at best with my G26, now I am shooting holes through other holes at 7yds (not always, of course, I'm no expert ). I HIGHLY recommend trying this trigger configuration to anyone who has a Glock.
    Well, I might think about it. That and the Ghost 5# tactical connector. It's just hard for someone like me to break the tradition of some well broken in Glocks, and years of range, match, and dry firing practices that have become habit. I'm all for someone making things better for them, but I just can't seem to part with the jack to do it. I guess I'm set in my ways. Most old men are I reckon, but your excitement in your post still puts a sparkle in my eye! Glock On!

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    Senior Member Array jualdeaux's Avatar
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    I wonder how the NY1 would work with a Ghost Rocket? Hmmm.
    Bend the knees, smooth is fast, watch the front sight.

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    Senior Member Array jualdeaux's Avatar
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    Okay. I just got the NY1. I put it in my 34 that has the Ghost rocket 3.5# connector. it does change the trigger pull significantly. But, now, to me, the trigger is just a bit too heavy. anyone know where to get a lighter spring to replace the one that comes in the NY1?

    Thanks.
    Bend the knees, smooth is fast, watch the front sight.

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    Distinguished Member Array GWRedDragon's Avatar
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    NY1 and 3.5# seems too heavy for you? Hmm. To me it really doesn't seem heavier than stock at all. Perhaps you should try a polish job ('trigger job in a can'). It could also be that the 'Ghost Rocket' connector is actually working differently than the 3.5# I got...
    "Trust in God with hand on sword" -Inscription on my family's coat of arms from medieval England
    ---Carry options: G26/MTAC, PF9/MiniTuck, PPK/Pocket, USP40/OWB---
    ---NOTE: I am not an expert. If I ever start acting like a know-it-all, please call me on it immediately. ---

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    Senior Member Array jualdeaux's Avatar
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    Well, this is for my IDPA gun and I'm used to the Ghost Rocket only. I've also done quite a bit of other mods to get the trigger nice and light with a great reset. But, I'm always looking for new ways to get the trigger even better.
    Bend the knees, smooth is fast, watch the front sight.

  10. #10
    BAC
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    I believe the idea behind the heavier trigger and the 3.5 disconnect is to create a consistent trigger pull. I haven't had the chance to try anything like it, but I have experienced what people describe as the "mushy" trigger on a Glock, and the people who've described this setup to me liken it to a nice double-action revolver.


    -B

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    I've had NY2 triggers (req by dept), NY1, 8# connectors and stock 5# connectors with the stock Glock trigger spring. I've adapted to all of them when required. However, I recently went to a 3.5# stock Glock connector and a NY1 trigger. This is by far the best set up IMO. Nice clean break and reset. It is actually a little heavier than the stock Glock trigger spring. It is 5.5# or 6# vs 5#.
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    Ex Member Array BikerRN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BAC View Post
    I believe the idea behind the heavier trigger and the 3.5 disconnect is to create a consistent trigger pull. I haven't had the chance to try anything like it, but I have experienced what people describe as the "mushy" trigger on a Glock, and the people who've described this setup to me liken it to a nice double-action revolver.


    -B
    It's not as "nice" or good as a "nice double action revolver" but it's similar enough that it works much the same.

    It's what's in my Glock 19, but I much prefer some of my Revolver Triggers.

    Biker

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    Distinguished Member Array Rexster's Avatar
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    When I switched to a G22 as a duty pistol in 2002, from the 1911, I went with the NY-1 and the 3.5-pound connector. It is NOT lighter than the standard factory set-up, and as I am an old DA sixgunner, it really felt better than the standard mushy factory light-takeup-then-stack-and-SPROING. My employer, a big-city PD, did not prohibit this combination, and it worked well enough, until I got to handle a P229, another pistol on the "approved" list, with a short factory trigger, and the DAK system. DAK works much better for me than Glock, so I switched and never looked back.

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