Ket Tec P3AT Problem
I haven't really fired this gun before, but bought it as a BUG.
Here's my problems;
After fireing a round I released the trigger until it clicks (which on most guns means you can fire). Then pulled the trigger to fire another round and...click, the hammer fell and no bang. The hammer seemed like it was doing the DA thing. So I racked another one in and it fired fine (only when the trigger was released ALL the way back to the resting position).
I tested this more than once, and the same problem continued.
Next had a stove pipe.
Next I noticed that the round that I racked out that was previously in the chamber, had a score on the end of the bullet. This also happened more than once. I don't know if this is a big deal, or the gun just marking its territory. LOL
Has anybody had this problem before? I have only shot around 100 rounds, but I wouldn't trust this gun for SD.
I look forward to your responces.
Three words. Fluff and buff. Do a google on Kel Tec fluff and buff, you'll find it. Or, shoot it a bunch, or send it back to Kel Tec. Any one of these should get you desired results.
As to the trigger reset, can't recall (been awhile since I shot mine), but unlike a Glock, you may need to allow the trigger to travel fully forward to properly reset (note that unlike a Glock, where you can visibly see a difference in the trigger position between cocked and not cocked, with the Kel Tec the trigger is in the same position either way).
The click you heard was the hammer block stopping and holding the hammer. ( Like a sear.) The second click is the trigger reset. Let the trigger go ALL the way forward before you pull it again. When you pulled the trigger at the first click, it released the hammer, but the hammer was only half cocked. Once the trigger resets, the trigger is again connected to the hammer . Pulling the trigger then releases the hammer block and then fully cocks the hammer before releasing it. ( Look at the manual that came with the gun for a description of the step by step functioning to make this clearer. )
The imprint on the nose of the round is commonly called a smiley face. It results when the top round in the mag strikes the bottom of the barrel ramp as a result of a combination of the round's inertia and the gun moving back in your hand under recoil. Its not uncommon in very high power to weight guns. I had the same thing in a .40 caliber 15 ounce gun. It has not created a problem with bullet set back that I am aware of, but you don't want the same round to go through this more than once. Some rounds are more likily to do this than others because of a slightly longer length or a flat nose instead of a rounded nose.
Hope this helps- conwic
Hard Method: fluff & buff, send back to Kel-Tec, wash, rinse, repeat
Easy Method: sell/trade and get a Ruger LCP :image035:
Pay attention so that your are not "limp wristing" the little bugger.
They also like to be run "wet" so slop on the lube.:35:
Fixing the Smiley problem should cost you less than $30 or $40 at the gunsmith depending on shop time. If you do a good Google search and you are handy, you can probably do it yourself if you are brave enough to file and grind away parts of your gun.
The trigger is supposed to work that way.
go to the kel tec forum - (ktog forum). they have all the things that you need to find out why you are having problems with your p3at and how to fix the problems. none of the fixes are hard to do and you don't need any special tools do do them. or you can send it back to the "mother ship",, they will check it out and fix it. or you could sale it to me. for some reasons some p3at are a pain and need some f&b to get them to run and others will shoot like a glock right out of the box. as with any small auto made sure it is clean and has grease/oil on all the correct places.
I'd be interested in purchasing it. :image035:
Originally Posted by EW3
Yep, what he said.
Originally Posted by conwic
Originally Posted by SleepingZ
Wet, wet, wet during break in especially. Lock that wrist, and absorb recoil more in the elbow.
LCP's have been known to create smileys for those who know to look for it.
Originally Posted by EW3
The gun is acting per design with the trigger. The Stove pipe is generally caused by limp wristing. I carry my P3AT as bug all the time and never had a failure of any kind (no fluff and buff required).
I also like shooting the P3AT better than my Ruger LCP (purchased so I could make holsters for it) because the P3 is much easier to hold on to. :yup:
The Rugers do indeed suffer from Smileys. I checked the first one that (finally) came into the shop. Not so sure I'd be willing to carve and file on the Ruger. If I screwed up, I'd trust KT customer service more. I imagine they'd do like they always do and send me two replacement parts of whatever I screwed up for free, overnight mail, and with a free spare magazine for my trouble.
I found the link for the instructions:
These are "classic" Kel Tec issues. As I had said many many times, Kel Tec's are great designs and generally well engineered but they do not spend much time carefully hand fitting and polishing the internals. Why? It cost time and money and that is way they sell at the price point they do. You may want to try the "fluff and buff" but I would just send it back to KT and let them fit it for you. It will get the personel attention it needs form the mother ship and they generally run well afterwards. This is the "price you pay" so to speak for buying a low cost CCW.
Originally Posted by pirate
I believe that I am correct in saying that NO large manufacturer hand fits and polishes internal parts any longer. Maybe some high end small builders, but sadly nobody else. The industry's dirty little secret is that computer controlled machines are used by everyone, high end or low end. The parts are close enough as they come from the machinery now that you don't absolutely have to have hand fitting anymore. So assembly is a semi skilled position. It's cheaper, so that's what they do.
You buy a Kahr at twice the price of a Kel Tec, and you get a good gun. But its up to you to "finish" it yourself by firing 200 rounds to "break in" the gun. And "break in" the gun is just a way of saying polishing/smoothing the internals by shooting the gun. You can buy a fine SW1911 ( #108285) from S&W for MSRP ( 2009) of $1,146, but if you want the one where they hand polish and fit internals for you, you have to go to the S&W Performance Center and buy the same model ( now # 170243) for $2,599. ( Note the considerable price difference if you get the gun put together by highly skilled craftsmen as opposed to the assembly line. )The gun industry simply doesn't have the highly skilled labor they once had. Machines have replaced craftsmen.