February 22nd, 2006 11:04 PM
New S&W 642
I picked up a new 642 in .38SP today. It is the model that comes with the Crimson Trace grips. I bought it for my wife as a surprise. The small framed revolvers were her favorite during our shopping together so after a lot of reading (mainly here) I went ahead and bought it. She likes it a lot and she said that she is excited about going to shoot it. Maybe this Sat if everything works out. I want her to shoot my XD as well. This will really be her first time shooting pistols with me since I didn't get started with mine until right after we found out she was pregnant (baby is 5 months old now) so it should be fun.
I myself really like it- it wouldn't ever replace my 1911 but I really do like it and the fact that I could put it in a jacket pocket if I wanted to.
Here is a question though since this is our first revolver- how and what do you oil? Do you take it apart at all or how detailed do you clean it?
-I never really thought I would ever buy a revolver but here I am with one now. I think that means that Euclidean has to buy a 1911 now.
February 22nd, 2006 11:08 PM
Originally Posted by hawkeye680
I think your right Euc needs a 1911
February 22nd, 2006 11:10 PM
I actually plan to get one, just a low priority thing and I want just a certain finish.
February 22nd, 2006 11:45 PM
I would clean this as any revo - which means no real ''takedown'' at all. Having a shrouded hammer lint getting inside is no issue.
Open cyl - gently! (no slam out or in) - and cradling cyl run brush thru chambers (with some #9 perhaps or cleaner of choice) to clean, and finish with dry patch - on each chamber. Do bore, which of course has to be done from muzzle - same, a few strokes with brush then patch to finish.
Check inside frame up top in particular - use toothbrush or bronze bristle brush to remove soot there and around forcing cone. Check at rear too above recoil shield that gets messy too eventually.
I would not bother to clean after only a few rounds tho.
Re the lube - just be very (VERY) sparing - and apply a minute drop to yoke (cylinder pivot) - and with ejector pressed, a drop on rod where it goes thru cyl. Finally, a drop at front end of cyl where it spins on its axis. Less is more!
Maybe after considerable useage - one drop at base of exposed trigger with gun inverted and keep it that way a while.
Chris - P95
NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member.
"To own a gun and assume that you are armed
is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."
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February 23rd, 2006 01:53 AM
I clean my 642 exactly as Chris suggests using Hoppes #9 solvent and Militec-1 for lube. One word of caution ... go easy scrubbing with the metallic brush on these, that lovely frosted finish (anodized?) can be scrubbed off if, say you're trying to clean powder residue from around the forcing cone with a wire brush ..... ummm, I've heard .
Don't underestimate the 642, I love mine. It's been my primary carry since getting my permit last October. Small enough to offer plenty of carry options, lightweight enough for all day carry and +P rated.
February 23rd, 2006 09:12 AM
Not Necessary to pop the side-plate off before you first shoot your S&W revolver. It sounds like you're not real comfortable with doing that anyway so...I would not.
Make sure there is no bore obstruction or gunk in the cylinder holes.
Check to make sure your revolver is unloaded.
Dry fire the revolver about 50 to 100 times before you oil anything.
You will not hurt anything by doing that with a S&W & it helps to "wear polish" one internal mating part (or bearing surface) against another.
If the revolver Dry Fires smoothly then (oil sparingly as per above) and go have fun shooting.
Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ
February 23rd, 2006 12:42 PM
+1 on the cleaning. It's a great little gun and it's easy to keep in perfect condition. I have put about 400 rounds through mine and it still looks new.
Let us know how it goes at the range. Just a couple of notes that might make it even more of a success.
First, the trigger pull is very heavy. It was mentioned in another thread that it's possible to pull the trigger back and pause before the hammer drops. This will help accuracy a whole lot.
Second, if you have to adjust the laser, make very very very small adjustments. It's very sensitive. I keep the tiny hex key under the foam in the case.
I carry mine full time, in jeans, khakis and dickies and don't even know it's there now.
There are 2 sounds in the world that strike more fear than any others. A click when you should hear a bang and a bang when you should hear a click.
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