Advice for new 442 heavy trigger? - Page 2

Advice for new 442 heavy trigger?

This is a discussion on Advice for new 442 heavy trigger? within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I have dry fired mine a few thousand times. It is a little better. How much is the action job by Smith and Wesson? I ...

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  1. #16
    Member Array nash's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
    Columbus Ohio
    I have dry fired mine a few thousand times. It is a little better.

    How much is the action job by Smith and Wesson?

    I will probably just leave it alone. The heavy trigger pull is nice for concealed carry.

    The new Ruger 38 has a nice trigger pull.

  2. #17
    Member Array SGT D USMC's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
    Salem Or
    When polishing internal parts in a S&W, remember that the parts are only surface hardened, with a much softer metal underneath. I have heard that the surface hardening is only 3-5 thousands thick.

    he went into younder village and never returned

  3. #18
    Senior Member Array Vaquero 45's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
    Sell it or trade it for a new Ruger LCR. The trigger is WORLDS better than any lightweight S&W or Taurus that I've ever handled. There is no comparison.
    Slow is smooth.....smooth is fast.

  4. #19
    cj [OP]
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    Senior Member Array cj's Avatar
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    Sep 2006
    Wow, lots of great advice all. I'll reiterate, though, that the trigger is surprisingly SMOOTH, it's just excessively HEAVY. In the near term, I think I'll try the Wolff spring kit mentioned (hope I can find a good video on disassembly/reassembly) with plans for an action job either once I find a good local gunsmith, or have saved up for a trip to the performance center.

  5. #20
    Member Array SC Tiger's Avatar
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    May 2009
    Seneca, SC
    Quote Originally Posted by mr surveyor View Post
    dryfire, dryfire, dryfire.... change hands.... dryfire, dryfire, dryfire

    worked wonders on my 637

    then, there are spring kits that will help as well as professional trigger work. You should be able to get that trigger in the 6-7 pound range easily.
    Do this before you have a trigger job done. I had a Ruger that I had the trigger worked when it was new. After a few hundred rounds the trigger "broke in" and got so light that it was almost scary. It was safe but screwed up my groupings for a while. The SA pull was measured at about 1 pound, and the DA was estimated at 5 or 6. The gun was deemed safe by a gunsmith.

  6. #21
    Array QKShooter's Avatar
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    Dec 2004
    Off Of The X
    YouTube - Gunsmith - How to install a spring kit in a S&W revolver

    Notice the tool used to replace the rebound spring.

    You can make one from a screwdriver. A Dremel helps to cut the slot into the screwdriver.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  7. #22
    Member Array frank's Avatar
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    Apr 2006
    There is some really good information being passed on here.
    My 442 was the same way and I changed the springs and did some minor stoning and it smoothed the trigger a lot and slightly lightened the pull.
    A lot of dry firing and several hundred of my lighter handloads helped also.

    Someone asked, a Master Action Revolver Package from S&W cost $145 plus shipping.(Action Package $145
    Trigger Stop
    Chamfer Charge Holes
    Polish Rebound Spring, Hammer Stud and Yoke Barrel Bosses
    Detail Lockwork Surfaces
    Stone Hammer and Trigger Contact Areas
    test Fire for Function )
    I had it done on a 686 and it was great. I don't know if I would go that far on a 442 and would probably change the springs and fire and dry fire it a good bit and call it good.
    Good luck!

  8. #23
    cj [OP]
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    Sep 2006
    Thought I'd post a followup. I got some springs (and of course NEEDED a new set of gunsmithing bits, so this was a good excuse to pick some up) and dry-fired the heck out of it while I waited.

    I dropped in a new hammer spring (marked 8 lbs by Wolff) and reassembled to try it out. Before, pull was a little over 14 pounds. After, just under 12 and MUCH was right on the edge of needing some trimming.

    I'll need to do some function testing, but the feel is a dramatic improvement...all without having to mess with the rebound spring!

  9. #24
    Member Array purwater's Avatar
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    Apr 2009
    SW Virginia
    I've been dry firing my 642 as well hoping the trigger would get a little easier. I might just have to try the new springs or get a gunsmith to look at it. I'd like to get it under 10 lbs at least.
    G23 w/GTL21, G27, Ruger LCP, & Taurus 617 SS
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  10. #25
    Member Array gwlammers's Avatar
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    Feb 2008
    Liberty, MO
    I went to a gunsmith and he snip 2 rings off my spring. No charge. It made a BIG difference. He said he wouldn't recommend taking off more than 2 rings or you could start having light strikes.

  11. #26
    Senior Member Array redbird's Avatar
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    Sep 2007
    Murfreesboro, TN
    I had a profesional do a trigger job on my 642 it has a great smooth pull.

  12. #27
    Member Array Marvin Knox's Avatar
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    Feb 2008
    seattle, washington
    I clicked mine a couple of thousand times before firing a shot. I click it all the time practicing with the laser on the wall.

    It will smooth it out a bunch if it is rough. but the poundage can really only be addressed with the springs.

    Have a smith smooth up everything internally and put in new springs. If you put in lower power springs (or the guy cuts the springs) you'll want an custom extended firing pin job to go with it. If not it will probably be undependable for carry with some ammo if you had it lowered in poundage enough to make it worth while.

    Make sure he tests it a bunch with your particular ammo or don't take it back and call it a done job. Federal primers are softer and will offer dependability with lower poundages. But my several favorite ammo have harder primers. I made sure it fired all the time with MY ammo. Can't stress that enough.

    I had mine done by Randy Lee of Apex. The firing pin is one of his own design. He won't return the gun until it is a right as he can make it. And he knows how to make revolvers right - either for carry or for target.

    Apex Tactical Specialties

    He's the best revolver guy in the nation according to many. Not cheap, but very good. He does custom jobs for most of the professional shooters on the circuit.

    Mine comes in at about 8 pounds DA and 5 pounds SA break. That's about the best you can hope for with a J-frame. A K frame can be made to go lower on both counts, but not a J. He leaves the springs stock on all but J frames and they can still be made really nice. Not true for J's.

    My 640 is much better than my 340 with the same work. Centennials are better generally than hammer models.

    My 640 is a fine carry piece now. So is the 340. Not so before. I even considered going to an auto before the work. And that's really saying a lot for a die hard revolver guy.

    I'm a happy camper now!

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