Any ways to cut kydex on your own?

This is a discussion on Any ways to cut kydex on your own? within the Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I just received my Raven Concealment Phantom for my HK45C, it's a great holster, better than the supertuck snapslide I previously had, the only issue ...

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Thread: Any ways to cut kydex on your own?

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    Member Array Agent47's Avatar
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    Any ways to cut kydex on your own?

    I just received my Raven Concealment Phantom for my HK45C, it's a great holster, better than the supertuck snapslide I previously had, the only issue is that when I sit down, the top of the sweatguard digs a little bit into my side - while I can withstand it (and it would probably help keep me awake for late night study sessions!) the occasional fidget/adjust movement might give me away - I only need to cut half a cm off of the top of the sweat guard.
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    Array QKShooter's Avatar
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    You can score it with a sharp utility knife and then snap it off at the score line...then sand the edges to smooth them.

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    Distinguished Member Array Paymeister's Avatar
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    Or use aviation snips (like tin snips, which also ought to work). You'll want a touch of sandpaper, and perhaps a quick dusting with a blowtorch. Hint: practice your smoothing efforts on the trimmed piece first.

    Kydex is a hoot to play with: see the Reference section and consider getting some from www.knifekits.com. If you do, get a few Chicago screws and a pack of rivets at the same time. They can be hard to find and you will save the second shipping charge.
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    Green Scotchbrite pads will smooth the edges.

    That is all I use. The box cutter scoring it should do the job or you could use an electric sander or a file or a rasp to shape it.

    I made several sheaths and holsters with simple hand tools before I got my belt sander. Go slow and you'll be fine.

    Good luck,

    Rick
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    Member Array luke213's Avatar
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    Agreed with the other guys, there are tons of ways to cut it. But for a guy just wanting to do it with minimal tools just scribe a line and crack it off. It's much easier than doing the same with plexi. Then I like to sand the edge slightly round and hit it with one of those medium sanding sponges. The fact that they follow the shape helps round the edge more.

    Luke

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    VIP Member Array goldshellback's Avatar
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    Dremel.
    "Just getting a concealed carry permit means you haven't commited a crime yet. CCP holders commit crimes." Daniel Vice, senior attorney for the Brady Campaign to Prevent Gun Violence, quoted on Fox & Friends, 8 Jul, 2008

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    Senior Member Array unloved's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent47 View Post
    I only need to cut half a cm off of the top of the sweat guard.
    If I were you, I wouldn't cut it at all. For such a small amount of material removal, you'd be better off just sanding it away. If you have access to power tools, a belt sander will be your best bet. Just be careful, it's easy to remove more than you intend, especially if you're using a coarse abrasive. 220 grit would be just about ideal.

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    0.5 cm is roughly 3/16" It is going to be difficult to hold a line that close to the edge without a a vice. Then you would need nippers. I would recommend you borrow or go to home Depot, buy an inexpensive coarse and medium wood file, not the little Stanley rasp that looks like a wood plane. Buy one sheet of 250 grit and one sheet of 400 grit wet & dry carbide paper (dark grey in color sand paper). Scribe a line 3/16" from the edge with a Sharpie marker or make a line with masking tape. Find a suitable place to work. It might work to put the holster on a hard chair and hold it firm with your knee. Slowly file in the forward direction only. Files don't cut on the back stroke. Take it down most of the way with the coarse file, get closer to the line with the medium file. Then sand first with the 250 grit and then the 400. If 400 grit is not smooth enough for you can use 600 grit paper.
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    Distinguished Member Array svgheartland's Avatar
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    I taped mine for a guideline and used the Dremel w/a light cutoff wheel. Nice and slow, steady hand. Then yeah, a little buffing is required. It won't be factory finish but I'm ok w/the mod's that I've made.
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    Member Array mmirob's Avatar
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    Kydex is easy to work. You can always try a heat gun on just that part that is digging into your side and mold it down a bit. If it doesn't turn out right you can heat it up again an flatten it out, over and over again!

    Be sure to only heat the top part giving you troubles.

    Now, I am partial, but this is exactly why I like leather. http://www.combatcarry.com/vbulletin...ol_1/wink1.gif

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