November 22nd, 2011 11:44 PM
Working with kydex
I read through a tutorial on how to mold kydex, and gave holster making a shot. Here's a holster for my G27. As shown in the pics, my holster is flat across the bottom and does not taper. This is because I cut the holster up high, as to not be visible below the bottom of a coat or tshirt, and I also wanted a set of rivets very low so my belt loops would be able to hold the gun high on the belt.
This was my second attempt, and though I heated up an area around the trigger guard too much, so it came out shiney, all in all it turned out well. Very comfortable and concealable! I'm posting this to offer some things I found helpful when taking a shot at kydex...
I usually carry IWB in a Crossbreed holster, but with the winter months usually bringing a coat, or atleast enough clothing that accessing an inside the waist style of carry is a bit obstructed. Not to mention that OWB is generally more comfortable.
Setting the gun at a slight angle of cant offers two things, it not only allows the gun to be drawn naturally from a position a little rearward of 3 o'clock, but it also helps hide the grip by rotating the gun foreward slightly.
Here's the holster after all the cutting, trimming, sanding and drilling/installing the rivets. It has yet to be heated for contour around the waist, but you can see that I learned a couple things with the first holster, and in this one I left the 'wings' on each side of the gun a little longer to add stability of the rig on the waist. I also, cut the holster to expose as much of the gun as possible on the outside, while still enclosing the trigger guard. Having the gun at a cant helps as well, exposing more of the grip and giving your hand solid placement on the gun during the draw...
There's quite a bit of clearance around the bottom of the trigger guard, seen here. The mag release is still covered, giving it protection from the side of the body, or anything else that may want to depress it while wearing the gun. Notice that material is left around the side of the slide as well. I could have cut more back, so that the gun was more exposed. Its a preference thing, I guess...
I want to slightly slim down the profile of the belt loops, and also make them out of a thicker sheet of kydex, but here it is with some installed, to see how well the holster feels. When heating and shaping the sides of the holster, I drew in the areas toward the bottom, while it angles out toward the top. If you can imagine the belt holding this holster to your waist, this shape gives the top of the holster and the grip of the gun a very close and tight position to your waist!
I'm very happy with the results this time around, and having cut my teeth on the last holster, this one took considerably less time. It holds the gun very tight to the waist, and has great renention. This is a terrible picture, as its a bit of a challenge to hold the camera far enough away to be able to take a picture of yourself, but here it is. This makes the holster look mis-shapen, but its not. I tried to get a picture of how well the gun hugs my waist...
Last edited by YFZsandrider; November 23rd, 2011 at 11:05 PM.
COTEP member and 1911Forum reject
November 22nd, 2011 11:50 PM
Looks like you did a fine job on the fitting, congrats!
November 22nd, 2011 11:52 PM
I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.
AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
Like custom guns and stuff? Check this out...
November 23rd, 2011 05:40 PM
I like how it holds the firearm tight against your side. Nice thing about kydex, a little run over with a heat gun and most forming mistakes can be un-done.
Retired USAF E-8. Lighten up and enjoy life because:
Paranoia strikes deep, into your heart it will creep. It starts when you're always afraid...
"For What It's Worth" Buffalo Springfield
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