Leather Lightning

Leather Lightning

This is a discussion on Leather Lightning within the Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Anybody ever try this stuff? I have a new TT holster that is pretty snug on my 226. Have used baggies, wax paper, all the ...

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  1. #1
    VIP Member Array multistage's Avatar
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    Leather Lightning

    Anybody ever try this stuff? I have a new TT holster that is pretty snug on my 226. Have used baggies, wax paper, all the tricks. Still plenty tight. Ordered some of this stuff from Mitch Rosen today. Hope it works.


  2. #2
    Member Array lyodbraun's Avatar
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    Never tried it, but do report back on how it works for ya...

  3. #3
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    Array RoadRunner71's Avatar
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    I have not used that product, so I will not comment on it specifically. I will say, though, that I am leary about putting anything on a leather holster to "loosen" it. What could happen is that you will take out the stiffness. When in doubt, contact the maker. See what they suggest.
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    VIP Member Array semperfi.45's Avatar
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    It doesn't need anything put on it or in it - just wear it and use it and it will be just as you want it.
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  5. #5
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    Some holsters come tighter than others...some take a bit more time to become 'just right'.
    I wouldn't use some 'substance' on any holster other than wax paper,cloth, or the '300 draws a night/for a week' practice to loosen it.OMO
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    Member Array Eaglebeak's Avatar
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    I've not tried any of it either, but let us know how it works out - my wife has a pair of leather pants that mysteriously seem to be getting tighter (especially around the backsides), so it may have a good application there

    I prefer a bit of a snug fit with a holster simply to keep my pistol from accidently dislodging when I'm active and slipping out at the worst possible time. I've had a number of "wet molded" holsters that were so terribly tight when I got them that I don't think any amount of wear-in would have helped much. For those, I re-soaked the molded portion and inserted my pistol that was snugly wrapped in thin plastic sandwich wrap. I left the pistol in place until the leather was about half dry, then removed it to let the leather fully dry. That process worked great and left the holster comfortably snug without being either too tight or too sloppy.

    I don't recommend any type of oil-based product (neatsfoot oil, etc.) for holsters because it will allow the leather to become supple and stretch - but it keeps on stretching with use until it gets so loose that it loses all of its weapon retention ability (ask me how I know )

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array rednichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by multistage View Post
    Anybody ever try this stuff? I have a new TT holster that is pretty snug on my 226. Have used baggies, wax paper, all the tricks. Still plenty tight. Ordered some of this stuff from Mitch Rosen today. Hope it works.
    I sympathise because I've seen 'custom' holsters that are so tight that the pistol simply won't come OUT! In that case it's a manufacturing fault and you should go back to the maker with the problem; no maker should be releasing a product that can't retain OR release the weapon. If the holster's just having a little more trouble letting go than you like, use spray silicone lubricant inside the holster. Works very well with unlined and lined holsters, and will NOT soften or stain your leather; and it's not possible to over-apply it (the excess will just run off, so wipe it off in advance).
    Red (Richard) Nichols
    "Chief Holster Scientist"

    http://www.highnoonholsters.com/Red_.../about_us.html

  8. #8
    Member Array Denster's Avatar
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    A quality leather holster, when new, should fit very snug. If it is a two point attachment system like a pancake or avenger style it will be even tighter when you belt it on because of the bias put on the weapon and holster. Simply wearing it around the house with gun in for two to four hours will allow it to stretch a bit and acclimate to your form and how tightly you buckle your belt. It is impossible for a maker to deliver the perfect fit right out of the package and a period of acclimation is required. If you simply have no patience then a spritz of silicone oil, as Red suggested, will speed things up.
    If your holster incorporates some synthetics other than or in addition to real leather and the fit is too tight it's generally a send it back situation.

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    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    I've not tried any of it either, but let us know how it works out - my wife has a pair of leather pants that mysteriously seem to be getting tighter (especially around the backsides), so it may have a good application there
    Try wrapping her in a couple layers of wax paper then have her pull em on and walk around for about eight hours,somethings gotta give.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Array rednichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denster View Post
    A quality leather holster, when new, should fit very snug. If it is a two point attachment system like a pancake or avenger style it will be even tighter when you belt it on because of the bias put on the weapon and holster. Simply wearing it around the house with gun in for two to four hours will allow it to stretch a bit and acclimate to your form and how tightly you buckle your belt. It is impossible for a maker to deliver the perfect fit right out of the package and a period of acclimation is required.
    Having personally made thousands of holsters, and supervised the construction of millions, I'll have to completely disagree with the above selections.

    First, if anyone believes that it's "impossible for a maker to delivery the perfect fit right out of the package", then whoever these makers are have sold you all a bill of goods. IT IS THE PRINCIPAL FUNCTION OF WET MOLDING / HAND BONING TO DELIVER A PERFECT FIT; retention is a secondary, and quite incidental function. It must not leave the maker's hands until it fits.

    Second, first-quality pancake holster (for example) is press-moulded ON THE CURVE, and the best of them are assymetrical designs: that is, the front panel is significantly larger than the rear panel. Combining the moulding on the curve, and assymetrical construction, intentionally avoids belt compression.

    It sounds to me like someone, somewhere among the custom makers has 'lost the plot'. A holster's entire function is to provide for the transport of a handgun; and a so-called 'custom' maker's role is do it all perfectly.
    Red (Richard) Nichols
    "Chief Holster Scientist"

    http://www.highnoonholsters.com/Red_.../about_us.html

  11. #11
    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    I used it for many months after I got my MR Upper Limit Express holster for G27. It's worth it for leather break-in IMO. To this day, my Mitch Rosen holster is the tightest and most conforming holster I've ever had, and I used the LL to break it in. Not all holsters are created equal.

  12. #12
    Member Array Denster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rednichols View Post
    Having personally made thousands of holsters, and supervised the construction of millions, I'll have to completely disagree with the above selections.

    First, if anyone believes that it's "impossible for a maker to delivery the perfect fit right out of the package", then whoever these makers are have sold you all a bill of goods. IT IS THE PRINCIPAL FUNCTION OF WET MOLDING / HAND BONING TO DELIVER A PERFECT FIT; retention is a secondary, and quite incidental function. It must not leave the maker's hands until it fits.

    Second, first-quality pancake holster (for example) is press-moulded ON THE CURVE, and the best of them are assymetrical designs: that is, the front panel is significantly larger than the rear panel. Combining the moulding on the curve, and assymetrical construction, intentionally avoids belt compression.

    It sounds to me like someone, somewhere among the custom makers has 'lost the plot'. A holster's entire function is to provide for the transport of a handgun; and a so-called 'custom' maker's role is do it all perfectly.
    I didn't mean to start a fight with you Red. I guess we will just have to agree to dissagree. Besides having made a few thousand holsters myself. Over the years I've owned holsters by most of the major manufacturers and most of the well known custom makers. Virtually all of them were very tight from the package and required a period of break in before they were comfortable to draw from. I just accepted that as the nature of things.

  13. #13
    Sponsor Array High Noon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denster View Post
    A quality leather holster, when new, should fit very snug. If it is a two point attachment system like a pancake or avenger style it will be even tighter when you belt it on because of the bias put on the weapon and holster. Simply wearing it around the house with gun in for two to four hours will allow it to stretch a bit and acclimate to your form and how tightly you buckle your belt. It is impossible for a maker to deliver the perfect fit right out of the package and a period of acclimation is required.

    Quote Originally Posted by rednichols View Post
    Having personally made thousands of holsters, and supervised the construction of millions, I'll have to completely disagree with the above selections.

    First, if anyone believes that it's "impossible for a maker to delivery the perfect fit right out of the package", then whoever these makers are have sold you all a bill of goods. IT IS THE PRINCIPAL FUNCTION OF WET MOLDING / HAND BONING TO DELIVER A PERFECT FIT; retention is a secondary, and quite incidental function. It must not leave the maker's hands until it fits.

    Second, first-quality pancake holster (for example) is press-moulded ON THE CURVE, and the best of them are assymetrical designs: that is, the front panel is significantly larger than the rear panel. Combining the moulding on the curve, and assymetrical construction, intentionally avoids belt compression.

    It sounds to me like someone, somewhere among the custom makers has 'lost the plot'. A holster's entire function is to provide for the transport of a handgun; and a so-called 'custom' maker's role is do it all perfectly.

    What we have experienced is, you can deliver the perfect fit, but as far as drawing the gun out of the holster goes, it's nearly impossible to deliver exactly what the customer wants out of the package in regards to retention. Like holster selection, it's all personal.

    For us, there is no perfect fit/perfect retention out of the package, we do not know who the end user is, so trying to fit the holster out the door to what we think is a perfect fit/perfect retention does not work for us.

    We are all so very different and that's the reason why we leave our holsters untouched out the door and we leave the simple break-in to the customer. 99% of the time this works out perfect for the customer. They get a true custom holster broken in to their individual needs. If you are a real custom holster dude, you would be highly insulted if you did not break in that new holster to what you felt was a good draw.

    Reality is everyone of us is of a different age, strength,has had injuries and most of all are at different levels in physical fitness. Some are in shape and work out and some do not. What the 25 year old 6.2" 225lb guy who works out thinks is a good release from the holster is not what the 60 year old 5.2'" 155 lb guy thinks is good.

    These facts plays a major role in the, "what we call here at HighNoon"..... " The Little Bears Syndrome". "It's to tite, it's just right."

    Now there have been times we personally spoke to the customer and knew what we were up against in terms of holster release, then we can deliver the near perfect fit/retention " out of the package" because of the information taken about the end user. But its impossible to talk to every customer on a one to one basis and our break in process is flawless and so easy.

    This is only what we have experienced for the past 15 years, it may not be the same for another maker. On one hand we can agree with Richard about "the perfect fit out of the package", but only if you know the end user, and on the other hand is our reality of not knowing the end user.

    Richard your thoughts on this?

    PS: I usually do not have the time to post, my guys take care of it, but I wanted to give Richard a big welcome back, at least from behind the keyboard for now.

    For those of you who do not know Richard, he is the "Holy Grail". If there was a true "Yoda" in holster design, it is Richard.

    When he had his shop "Nichols Innovation" up and running designing for certain companies and I worked at XXXX company, we used to call him "The One". Just a Brilliant, one of a kind designer that you could learn so much from and then getting to test his new work as it came in was a bonus.

    Michael

  14. #14
    VIP Member Array 357and40's Avatar
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    I used Leather Lightning on a DM Bullard Dual Carry. It conditioned the leather to the point where it formed around the weapon. I was not happy about it because instead of making the weapon easier to draw it caused a hang up. The lesson: Do not use it on rough side leather. Threw my bottle away.
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  15. #15
    Distinguished Member Array Brady's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by retsupt99 View Post
    Some holsters come tighter than others...some take a bit more time to become 'just right'.
    I wouldn't use some 'substance' on any holster other than wax paper,cloth, or the '300 draws a night/for a week' practice to loosen it.OMO
    Agreed. Not being able to find a production holster for a Dan Wesson revolver, I had to 'settle' at the suggestion of several folks and get one for a S&W model 10. It was so tight at first that it pulled my belt up a couple inches before it would draw. I think most of my trouble is that the Dan Wesson has a full under-lug. But it's getting better the more I wear it around the house. One day I'll be able to take it for a walk.
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