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Snap on pancake

2K views 11 replies 11 participants last post by  MrBuckwheat 
#1 ·
Finally managed to finish a personal holster. I had made another snap on rig earlier and had this grand notion of making it capable of being IWB or OWB. Well, it seems you can do both OK but neither well. So this time I went for a dedicated OWB rig. The changes I made for this one were integrated straps, double snaps, fully lined, and I left the bottom open. Basically, I fixed all the mistakes I made on my first one. I have to say that the lined holsters look great. But I don't see myself making many of them. Wow, that was a lot of work!

The holster is 4 layers of 5-6 oz Hermann Oak B grade leather, hand stitched, and vinegroon finished. Any critiques are welcome.

For your viewing pleasure. Front side snapped.



View of straps.



Back side.




First shot is a top edge and then a side edge. I'm much happier with the burnishing on this one. Even though evening out 4 layers was kind of tough.






Shot of the lining.



And the most important part, how it rides. Much tighter than the last one. These strap will not be slipping off and letting the holster move off my hip.

 
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#2 ·
This is a "snap-on pancake"; you've created something else:

Handgun holster


You'll get a result you like better if you do two things: switch from closed muzzle to open muzzle, and bang your pistol mould into the holster at the back of the slide, not on the muzzle of the holster (i.e., upside down).

Closed muzzle made sense when everyone carried revolvers, with their slim tapered barrels. But the advent of bulky designs like the Glock made nonsense of that, so open muzzle (even a slit in the leather) will give you a better result. Leaving 3/8" or so beyond the muzzle will prevent powder residue or sight black from dirtying clothing.
 
#7 ·
This is a "snap-on pancake"; you've created something else:


You'll get a result you like better if you do two things: switch from closed muzzle to open muzzle, and bang your pistol mould into the holster at the back of the slide, not on the muzzle of the holster (i.e., upside down).

Closed muzzle made sense when everyone carried revolvers, with their slim tapered barrels. But the advent of bulky designs like the Glock made nonsense of that, so open muzzle (even a slit in the leather) will give you a better result. Leaving 3/8" or so beyond the muzzle will prevent powder residue or sight black from dirtying clothing.
Red, I've not seen any consensus on a name for this type of holster, but snap on pancake made the most sense. I can certainly see the difference in the two and had considered making one similar to your pic.

Also, the muzzle end is open. Although not a lot. It's a fully lined holster, so the stitch line is on every edge. I sewed the muzzle, sweat guard, and mouth first, then glued the front and back together, and finished sewing where all 4 pieces of leather came together. I think a couple of things are happening. My stitch line may be a touch too close, especially around the front sight area. Although I used 1/2" extra space all the way around the pistol. I could have probably made that side less steep and added a bit more leather there too. The bind seems to be where the stitch from the sight channel meets the bottom stitch. I can't tell if that is keeping the trigger guard a bit higher or if the width of the trigger guard is doing it.

As for inserting the pistol. Are you suggesting putting the back of the slide on the board and pounding the holster down over it? I guess I never thought of doing that because of the sweat guard. But I can see where it could be helpful. Maybe I could have gotten it a bit deeper doing it upside down like you suggest.

Thanks for the responses everybody.
 
#4 ·
Nice work ChiefJason!
 
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