1911 pancake- flat back
Since Red's post about flat backed holsters I've been tinkering with a few. Basically, any request has been made with a flat back. I've done 4 so far and this is certainly my favorite. I figured I would show it off a bit. The holster is for a 4.5" barrel and the blue gun I have is a 5" barrel. That's why there is a bit of muzzle peeking out. I had the blue gun marked for 4.5" and designed everything to stay hidden.
The details. 8-9 oz Hermann Oak leather. Hand stitched with waxed linen thread. Gum trag for edges and interior burnishing. My first time using the GT and I really liked it. Atom wax and acrylic sealer for the finish.
I changed up a few things making this one compared to the first couple. One was the way I molded the holster. I intentionally built in some space on the first couple for retention. And it was a bit too much. This one I did not do that and it's good retention but not too tight either. What I like most about this process is that there is no guess work on the stitch lines so I get them much tighter to the gun. I've also started vinagrooning the leather before sewing because the wax from the thread was acting as a resist.
I lucked into some nice leather tools at a local pawn shop and I've been putting a lot of them to good use too. The right tools sure save some time. Well, here are the pics.
Here's the 5" blue gun with a little muzzle poking out.
Nice work! One suggestion would be to bevel the face side of your belt slots. This helps the whole rig lie flatter on the belt.:smile:
When are you going to take orders?..............
You've made a LOT of progress, time to get rid of all the bumps around the perimeter: switch from a knife to a bandsaw for wood (blade and speed) to get the most complex shapes perfectly smooth.
Thanks! And funny you mention that. They are not that noticeable until I take a picture, then they just jump right out don't they. I've got a round knife I've been using lately and I don't have to make as many straight cuts around the corners. I need to pay more attention and see if there is improvement there. I imagine my scroll saw might do a real number on the leather and just make a mess. Very different cutting motion than a band saw.
Originally Posted by rednichols
I guess I'll have to add bandsaw to the tool list. Now to see if your credentials will convince the CFO (my wife) that I need one. :image035:
goawayfarm, I'll PM you.
Ah. There's no reason a round knife won't cut a smooth curve, except inexperience.
Originally Posted by chiefjason
So tell the CFO that you NEED a bench-mounted belt sander; all holster makers use a sander to first match, then smooth the edges. Use an edge bevel hand tool to take off the resulting flange, dampen with water and polish with the "waist" of the edge beveler. Eventually you'll graduate to a grooved wheel for that. John Bianchi's 2010 book shows many of these processes, in very good pics. You're reinventing the wheel otherwise, these processes have long ago been perfected.
Don't be too impressed by the author's caption; my polisher is a grooved sliding door wheel on a bolt!
Your scroll saw will work, but it's slow and frustrating compared with a wood-cutting bandsaw.
Just wondering if the flat back helps with comfort?
I started that holster before I got the round knife. Or maybe right when I got it and had not idea what I was doing. I really like it so far but still getting used to it and what it's capable of. It's capable of much more than I am right now, I'm sure of that. I'm using a sanding drum on a dremel mounted work station right now. The main issue there is the drum is too small. I've looked around for a table top spindle sander to square the edges with and have even considered a drill press with a larger drum. I've got some edging wheels that my FIL made me. He's a fantastic wood worker and has a lathe to turn them. I've used them with different levels of success. Since I'm producing so few of these right now I have stepped back to doing most of it by hand. Looking at it from the "edge inconsistency" issue, using the wheels would likely help rework some of the minor bumps out of the edge. So I may have to rethink that process as well.
Still learning. And thank you for all the great advice, it's appreciated. Not really trying to reinvent the wheel, just figure out how it best works for me and what I have available to me. I'm slowly adding tools and such to make things go smoother. I just can't go all in and dump a lot of personal money into it. I just added a very nice work bench with solid wood top and a bunch of storage drawers to help organize my area better. It's coming along slowly.
Indeed it does. Its second benefit for you, as the wearer, is that the tension of the belt no longer pulls the pistol pocket closed. This takes the belt out of the equation for tension on the pistol, and leaves the pocket open for holstering.
Originally Posted by jaypowell0185